family member noticed the check engine light on but did not know how to read, interpret, or respond to the temperature gauge being pegged. continued to drive that way for another 30 minutes. when I got the car both radiator hoses were collapsed. thermostat stuck closed. likely it was stuck for the entire drive - which was 45 miles and almost an hour. I'm currently injured and could not do the work; a friend that did the work insists the head gasket is fine. I am suspicious. we will see. not sure how an engine could survive that amount of abuse. this engine has cast iron block and aluminum head.
Camry driven overheated for 30-60 minutes
- Thread starter tomcat27
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What engine in the Camry? If it's a 5SFE (AKA the 2.2 slanty, as I call it), then I'd bet it's fine.
2.4? Eh, those had HG issues anyways. But not impossible.
3.0-3.3-3.5? Toss up. I could believe an old 1MZ could survive that type of abuse.
Have your friend test for hydrocarbons in the cooling system. If he doesn't have the tool to do so, and the engine runs at normal operating temp after repairs, I wouldn't worry about it. HG's are either good or they aren't, for the most part.
2.4? Eh, those had HG issues anyways. But not impossible.
3.0-3.3-3.5? Toss up. I could believe an old 1MZ could survive that type of abuse.
Have your friend test for hydrocarbons in the cooling system. If he doesn't have the tool to do so, and the engine runs at normal operating temp after repairs, I wouldn't worry about it. HG's are either good or they aren't, for the most part.
it's the 2.2 "slanty". I have used the HC test in the past; but I would need to get another tester. fingers crossed.
I was very disappointed - the thermostat was only 6 months old - it was a Beck Arnley. shoulda used a toyota.....
I was very disappointed - the thermostat was only 6 months old - it was a Beck Arnley. shoulda used a toyota.....
It's cooked
Never call it over until you either notice the fluids mixing / burning / leaking. It does seem like an awful long time to drive in an overheated state but it needs to be proven that damage was caused.
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the oil looked good; and the cooling system was still holding a vacuum. for now I will watch the coolant level; I suppose I could do the test for exhaust in the coolant. it runs.....
I'm sure it survived because I had Slick 50 in there!!!
I'm sure it survived because I had Slick 50 in there!!!
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Silly Tom Duralube is where it's at. That combined with Lucas Oil Stablizer and your Yota will live forever.
Originally Posted by StevieC
Never call it over until you either notice the fluids mixing / burning / leaking. It does seem like an awful long time to drive in an overheated state but it needs to be proven that damage was caused.
Yup, the thermostat could have been cracked open a little or it shedded enough heat with airflow under the hood, oil flow, etc. If the computer drives the temp gauge it could have shot up to "panic mode" at ~230'F. However if it got so hot that the computer thought the sensor was out-of-range, god help that car!
Wife's HHR alerted me with a dinging chime when it overheated due to a bad fan. I would not have noticed in time otherwise.
Car might start burning oil now, if the rings relaxed in the heat.
Never call it over until you either notice the fluids mixing / burning / leaking. It does seem like an awful long time to drive in an overheated state but it needs to be proven that damage was caused.
Yup, the thermostat could have been cracked open a little or it shedded enough heat with airflow under the hood, oil flow, etc. If the computer drives the temp gauge it could have shot up to "panic mode" at ~230'F. However if it got so hot that the computer thought the sensor was out-of-range, god help that car!
Wife's HHR alerted me with a dinging chime when it overheated due to a bad fan. I would not have noticed in time otherwise.
Car might start burning oil now, if the rings relaxed in the heat.
the error code from the OBD indicated "temp sensor out of range"
Dry hot vs Wet hot, If the engine had coolant in it.....You would be surprised what a engine can take & survive.
Dry Hot......Losing all the coolant & continuing to drive it IS a death sentence!
Dry Hot......Losing all the coolant & continuing to drive it IS a death sentence!
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Dry hot vs Wet hot, If the engine had coolant in it.....You would be surprised what a engine can take & survive.
Dry Hot......Losing all the coolant & continuing to drive it IS a death sentence!
Random thought, I've often wondered if a dry hot would fail to register on the gauge after a while.
If it has no coolant, it's only air that's giving the sensor it's findings. Can the sensor get a reading off air and would that air even be hot enough to show what's going on?
Dry hot vs Wet hot, If the engine had coolant in it.....You would be surprised what a engine can take & survive.
Dry Hot......Losing all the coolant & continuing to drive it IS a death sentence!
Random thought, I've often wondered if a dry hot would fail to register on the gauge after a while.
If it has no coolant, it's only air that's giving the sensor it's findings. Can the sensor get a reading off air and would that air even be hot enough to show what's going on?
Originally Posted by dlundblad
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Dry hot vs Wet hot, If the engine had coolant in it.....You would be surprised what a engine can take & survive.
Dry Hot......Losing all the coolant & continuing to drive it IS a death sentence!
Random thought, I've often wondered if a dry hot would fail to register on the gauge after a while.
If it has no coolant, it's only air that's giving the sensor it's findings. Can the sensor get a reading off air and would that air even be hot enough to show what's going on?
I think there has to be some coolant in the system for the gauge to function properly.
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Dry hot vs Wet hot, If the engine had coolant in it.....You would be surprised what a engine can take & survive.
Dry Hot......Losing all the coolant & continuing to drive it IS a death sentence!
Random thought, I've often wondered if a dry hot would fail to register on the gauge after a while.
If it has no coolant, it's only air that's giving the sensor it's findings. Can the sensor get a reading off air and would that air even be hot enough to show what's going on?
I think there has to be some coolant in the system for the gauge to function properly.
I would not be surprised if it's ok. It might have some minor changes in behavior - higher oil burn down the road or a burp during idle, but in my limited experience toyota engines can handle a good bit more abuse than others. They may not have the raw performance or light weight to compete with other makes, but for me they've been solid, don't skimp on metal, and from the beginning have been much more picky about metal quality, and the resulting robustness, than others. There was a great article on their metallurgy I came across years ago - insisting on higher qualities of metal purity, low porosity, and casting processes than everyone else. Having owned 2 in the family over the years, I don't doubt it. Maybe yours will be ok.
Originally Posted by nwjones18
Originally Posted by dlundblad
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Dry hot vs Wet hot, If the engine had coolant in it.....You would be surprised what a engine can take & survive.
Dry Hot......Losing all the coolant & continuing to drive it IS a death sentence!
Random thought, I've often wondered if a dry hot would fail to register on the gauge after a while.
If it has no coolant, it's only air that's giving the sensor it's findings. Can the sensor get a reading off air and would that air even be hot enough to show what's going on?
I think there has to be some coolant in the system for the gauge to function properly.
I work in the heavy duty truck industry. I have been told many times "the hose busted and dumped all the water, driver never saw the guage read hot, because no water was on the sensor"
If the guage does read hot, time for new parts.
Originally Posted by dlundblad
Originally Posted by clinebarger
Dry hot vs Wet hot, If the engine had coolant in it.....You would be surprised what a engine can take & survive.
Dry Hot......Losing all the coolant & continuing to drive it IS a death sentence!
Random thought, I've often wondered if a dry hot would fail to register on the gauge after a while.
If it has no coolant, it's only air that's giving the sensor it's findings. Can the sensor get a reading off air and would that air even be hot enough to show what's going on?
I think there has to be some coolant in the system for the gauge to function properly.
I work in the heavy duty truck industry. I have been told many times "the hose busted and dumped all the water, driver never saw the guage read hot, because no water was on the sensor"
If the guage does read hot, time for new parts.
Originally Posted by racinjason
I work in the heavy duty truck industry. I have been told many times "the hose busted and dumped all the water, driver never saw the guage read hot, because no water was on the sensor"
If the guage does read hot, time for new parts.
Don't newer engines have a stop engine function that is triggered during a low/no coolant situation?
I work in the heavy duty truck industry. I have been told many times "the hose busted and dumped all the water, driver never saw the guage read hot, because no water was on the sensor"
If the guage does read hot, time for new parts.
Don't newer engines have a stop engine function that is triggered during a low/no coolant situation?
Originally Posted by nthach
Originally Posted by racinjason
I work in the heavy duty truck industry. I have been told many times "the hose busted and dumped all the water, driver never saw the guage read hot, because no water was on the sensor"
If the guage does read hot, time for new parts.
Don't newer engines have a stop engine function that is triggered during a low/no coolant situation?
Limp mode, yes. Engine stop, no... at least not while it is already running. Some engine computers have a no-start safeguard if a critical parameter is out, which may include excess engine temperature. These specific safeguards depend on the intended use of the engine/vehicle and which manufacturer we're talking about.
Originally Posted by racinjason
I work in the heavy duty truck industry. I have been told many times "the hose busted and dumped all the water, driver never saw the guage read hot, because no water was on the sensor"
If the guage does read hot, time for new parts.
Don't newer engines have a stop engine function that is triggered during a low/no coolant situation?
Limp mode, yes. Engine stop, no... at least not while it is already running. Some engine computers have a no-start safeguard if a critical parameter is out, which may include excess engine temperature. These specific safeguards depend on the intended use of the engine/vehicle and which manufacturer we're talking about.
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Originally Posted by clinebarger
Dry hot vs Wet hot, If the engine had coolant in it.....You would be surprised what a engine can take & survive.
Dry Hot......Losing all the coolant & continuing to drive it IS a death sentence!
You would think, but one night a few years ago my wife came home from work (~17 miles) with coolant all over the front bumper and none in the car. No idea if it overheated or not because of course she didn't look at the temp gauge but when I attempted to drain the radiator, a few drops came out at most. Replaced the leaking pipe, filled it back up with coolant, and it ran for at least another year until the transmission went out.
I've always read that the 2.2 in those old Cavaliers had headgasket issues to start with, but in my experience they have proven to be absolutely indestructible.
Dry hot vs Wet hot, If the engine had coolant in it.....You would be surprised what a engine can take & survive.
Dry Hot......Losing all the coolant & continuing to drive it IS a death sentence!
You would think, but one night a few years ago my wife came home from work (~17 miles) with coolant all over the front bumper and none in the car. No idea if it overheated or not because of course she didn't look at the temp gauge but when I attempted to drain the radiator, a few drops came out at most. Replaced the leaking pipe, filled it back up with coolant, and it ran for at least another year until the transmission went out.
I've always read that the 2.2 in those old Cavaliers had headgasket issues to start with, but in my experience they have proven to be absolutely indestructible.
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I remember when my daughter's Accord overheated many years ago(radiator failure) the car ran poorly after replacing coolant. It turns out it got hot enough to damage her spark plugs. I also changed the oil. We drove it 10's of thousands more Miles after that and sold it to someone who had a long commute. Don't throw in the towel just yet.
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