0w20 & 5w20 almost identical oil properties

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Originally Posted by ChrisD46
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
How many of you have faith in following manufacturers drain intervals of 10k or once per year on 0w20? Especially if your vehicle is Direct injected. Even worse would be turbocharged and direct injection following 10k OCI.

For starters if I owned a Turbo DI engine mfg. spec or not, 0W20 wouldn't be in the sump.
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And a 10K OCI wouldn't be in the cards either.

+1 ! ... A DI turbo is probably called to use a 5W30 or 5W40 oil at most likely no more than 7,500 miles max. OCI . By then that oil is beat to death with soot , fuel dilution , etc.

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PFI, GDI, Dual Injection... doesn't matter to me. Maximum OCI has always been 5K.
 
While the manual says I can go 10,000 miles (16,000km) under normal conditions I wouldn't do so without getting a UOA first as my vehicle is operated more like a fleet vehicle where the sump is hot all day long and started/stopped many times in the day. Not so bad in the summer but in the winter it's brutal to keep the engine constantly changing temperatures.

I think I might do a UOA on the 0w20 once the break-in is finished and then do another one with 5w20 in the winter and compare them to make a decision.
 
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
Steer clear of the Subaru ascent


Why? what's the story with them. I haven't read of any major issues.
 
Originally Posted by wemay
Originally Posted by Oildudeny
Steer clear of the Subaru ascent


Why? what's the story with them. I haven't read of any major issues.




I've read of some minor issues. It's a new model. It should be a good seller for Subaru considering the growth in the 3 row crossover segment.
 
Not that every automaker doesn't have bugs with new models and advice to steer clear of the first few years in a new model till this is ironed out is good advice, but generally I don't see what people like about Subaru. They seem to have their fair share of problems that last quite some time before they are remedied in their models from head gaskets, fuel dilution, engine & CVT issues etc. To each their own I guess.
 
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Originally Posted by StevieC
Not that every automaker doesn't have bugs with new models and advice to steer clear of the first few years in a new model till this is ironed out is good advice, but generally I don't see what people like about Subaru. They seem to have their fair share of problems that last quite some time before they are remedied in their models from head gaskets, fuel dilution, engine & CVT issues etc. To each their own I guess.


Yes I love the design of the Subaru Forrester but after seeing all the problems with them and some warranty non support issues they are off my buy list.
 
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Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by StevieC
Not that every automaker doesn't have bugs with new models and advice to steer clear of the first few years in a new model till this is ironed out is good advice, but generally I don't see what people like about Subaru. They seem to have their fair share of problems that last quite some time before they are remedied in their models from head gaskets, fuel dilution, engine & CVT issues etc. To each their own I guess.


Yes I love the design of the Subaru Forrester but after seeing all the problems with them and some warranty non support issues they are off my buy list.


I like the vehicle too, but my research steered me clear as well.
 
I should have clarified I like the designs and would buy one in a heartbeat if they were more reliable without all these issues. Also because a friend I grew up with has a dealership and I could get a smokin' deal on one.
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My wife is getting that new vehicle itch and is looking for something 7-seater in an SUV. The Ascent is on the list. As are...

MDX
QX60
RX350
Pilot
Atlas
 
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My choice would be the RX-350 if you can get over the ugly grill as it has the same engine/trans as my Highlander. The 8 speed direct shift automatic transmission isn't the smoothest and seems to have an identity crises at low speeds especially when turning a corner but otherwise it's great.

MDX would be my next choice then the Pilot. Not a fan of the new Pilot design.

Then the QX60. Not a fan of Nissan/Infinity.

I wouldn't even look at an Atlas. Just me. Too new, and I think it's ugly. The Ascent is also too new so I wouldn't get this either.
 
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Originally Posted by wemay
My wife is getting that new vehicle itch and is looking for something 7-seater in an SUV. The Ascent is on the list. As are...

MDX
QX60
RX350
Pilot
Atlas





The Atlas is going through some issues as well.

When I researched for vehicles I peruse the forums of those vehicles. You find out if there are common issues and complaints or if they are rock solid.
 
Originally Posted by Gokhan
Originally Posted by StevieC
Out of these two oils, why wouldn't you use the 5w20 over the 0w20 when the properties are almost identical but the Noack is far superior... Should consideration be given to the V.I. difference?

Your thoughts?

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The basic answer is very simple but no one has given it so far. I'll answer it:

The difference is in the CCS -- 0W-20 measured at -35C and 5W-20 measured at -30C, which means that 0W-20 uses a thinner base oil. This results in a lower NOACK for 0W-20. It also results in more viscosity-index improver (VII) for 0W-20 so that the KV100 and HTHSV for the finished viscosities will be in the correct range for an xW-20 grade.

Now, the complicated answer:

One thing we cannot tell from the numbers is the base-oil type. For example, M1 0W-20 uses a lot more PAO than M1 5W-20 according to the MSDS. In fact, M1 EP 0W-20 is mostly PAO. So, in the case of M1, do you care for more PAO or less VII?

Most importantly, is there any good science that more VII in 0W-20 will result in less wear protection for it than for 5W-20? One can argue that more VII is actually better because it results in a higher viscosity index (VI), which means that a 0w-20 will thin less than a 5W-20 if the temperature rises to, say, 170 C (which is well above the 150 C the HTHSV is measured) in extreme operating conditions. I would think more VII would help you in that case by keeping the oil thick.

Yes, there is this scientific paper by Nissan/SAE that claims that a thicker base oil may be better for timing-chain wear. However, does it really make a difference when a good antiwear/extreme pressure/friction modifier (AW/EP/FM) package is used?

Of course, you also get better fuel economy with 0W-20 than with 5W-20, especially in warm-up situations.

Lastly, NOACK. The only thing that it really affects is the oil consumption but if you don't have oil consumption or your oil consumption is unrelated to NOACK, it's a moot issue. We've already debunked the myth that lower NOACK results in less PCV mist and/or less intake-valve deposits.

For Mobil 1 xW-20 varieties, I would pick Mobil 1 Extended Protection (M1 EP) 0W-20 because it's a PAO-based oil unlike any other Mobil 1 variety except the Mobil 1 Annual Protection 0W-20 and Mobil 1 0W-16.

For Amsoil Signature Series (SS), I would probably still pick the SS 0W-20, even though chances are good that both the SS 0W-20 and SS 5W-20 are PAO. A little more VII? Perhaps it's actually better. It's funny that in the past Amsoil had the lowest four-ball-wear number for SS 0W-20 among all of their oils, and now, they put the same number for the entire SS series.
 
Originally Posted by demarpaint
I answered the question, in insane cold the 0W20 would have the edge. Me I'd use a 5W30.
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but that wasn't a choice.


There's also Mobil 1 0W30 AFE that's pretty close to the xW20s and could be used in "insane" cold....
 
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