New Reloading Toys

[CarbonSteel]

My sons are old enough now and are getting into different types of shooting. I have reloaded centerfire metallic cartridges for decades at this point, however, I have never tried my hand at reloading shotgun shells. An elderly gentleman became disabled and could no longer reload and sold me an SL 900. Received it yesterday and it looks like it has never been used. I plan to get it set up soon.

Much like pistol and rifle cartridges, I am going to assume there are wide variations in the different types of shot pellets, shotgun powder, primers, and other components. Generally speaking though, are shotshell pellets more or less the same across the board? Since shotguns are not necessarily known for extreme accuracy, unlike rifle and pistol cartridges and I hesitate to make an assumption, but in many ways it seems like the brand of pellets would make no difference. Just curious as to all of your experiences.

 

[853okg]

I have no experience reloading shotgun shells, but like you have reloaded many different centerfire cartridges. It seems like a cool thing, and I imagine you could do some neat stuff. I've never fired mini shells, but they also intrigue me. I also have no experience reloading rimfire, but have seen kits that enable this. I would think we'd be talking zombie apocalypse for this to happen. I have many, many bricks of .22 LR going back decades.

 

[SnowDrifter]

Very nice. Dillon makes some great units

As far as shot goes, it's rated in size of the shot and material its made from (lead, copper, etc). The important bit here that determines your powder load, wadding, and any other considerations is the weight, which will be specified in the loading manual you're using

 

[CT8]

Blue to the core !

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted by SnowDrifter
Very nice. Dillon makes some great units

As far as shot goes, it's rated in size of the shot and material its made from (lead, copper, etc). The important bit here that determines your powder load, wadding, and any other considerations is the weight, which will be specified in the loading manual you're using
Thanks for the information. Any differences in the cases? I can pick up plenty of them at the range.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted by CT8
Blue to the core !
Absolutely. Started green, switched to red, now all blue. Two XL650's with case feeders and now a SL900 ......

 

[edhackett]

Originally Posted by 2015_PSD
[
Any differences in the cases? I can pick up plenty of them at the range.


Yes, every brand or line within a brand of case(hull) has a different internal construction that effects the load. You can't randomly pick up hulls and reload them. Many of the cheap shells on the market are not reloadable. There is no data for them and they won't hold a crimp on a reload. Your best bet for finding good, reloadable shells is to find a a source of once fired Winchester, Remington, or Federal target hulls. Your local trap or skeet range may sell them.

Shot shell reloading is quite different than rifle or pistol. You must follow the specific combination of components given in the reloading manuals exactly. No part is interchangeable. Proper pressures can only be assured by using the exact shot type, shot weight, hull, powder, powder charge, wad, and brand of primer listed.

Here's a good place to start: http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/shotgun

Ed

 

[bunnspecial]

I'm not MUCH of a shotgun reloader, but have done some.

As said, follow everything, including hull type, down to the letter. I only shoot and reload 16 gauge, which makes things REALLY fun as the selection of things like waddings is limited vs. 12 gauge. On the other hand, it makes reloading tables simpler.

I don't know if there's much difference in shot brands-at least I've not noticed it. As said, the size and material are the most important considerations.

Also, although hull brand is important, bear in mind that hulls are broadly classed into two different types-"high brass" and "low brass." The difference is in the height of the brass base at the bottom. As a very general rule, target loads are low brass and hunting loads are high brass, but this is not hard and fast. The loading characteristics of the two, and the load data, are very different. I get somewhat lucky in 16 gauge in that I don't know if anyone even makes low brass anymore(I've only seen it on old paper hulls, not on modern plastic), so I don't have to sort out that distinction.