Non-detergent oil recommended for Generator?

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I was looking into what oil to run in the Champion 3500 watt generator and to my suprise the manufacturer recommends a non detergent SAE 30 oil.

"Our recommendations for your oil are SAE 30 non-detergent oil with at least an API rating of SF or SJ. Non-detergent oil will keep the contamination created by the hydrocarbons, from the engine, settled in the bottom of the crankcase. Since this type of engine does not use an oil filtration system, it is best to keep a non-detergent type in use. Detergent oils tend to keep the contaminants circulating from the oil slinger that splash feeds the important internal parts. Be sure to check your manual for your climate conditions that may require different weight oil."

Is this valid or would I be better off running Rotella? The generator will be used after potential hurricanes in 90+F weather.
 
I'm sure there will be some if not many who disagree with what I am about to say . . . . but. Given that the motor you are using has no filtration system. And given that a modern motor oil keeps wear materials/"trash" in suspension so that it is filtered out when the oil passes through the filter system, the use of a detergent motor oil is not only un-necessary in the motor you are using, but, IMHO, harmful to the motor. If a modern motor oil keeps wear materials and dirt hanging or trapped if you will, in the oil itself, the oil becomes more and more abrasive as you run the motor. A non-detergent oil allows the wear materials/"trash" to fall to the bottom and form sludge, (yep, a nasty word in these parts). However, given the kind of motor you are using, this is a good thing as it keeps the majority away from the oiling system within your motor. Personally, I use non-detergent motor oil in my lawn mowers and a small engine pump motor for that very reason. When I change the oil, I flush the motor out with diesel fuel, (I don't run the motor with diesel fuel in the crankcase). While I have never done an oil analysis, my "unoffical hands on" results are as follows -
1979 Snapper "Comet" rider, (the Forrest Gump model) - still running on the original 10 h.p. Briggs and Straton. Yes, it smokes a little, but the thing is 27 years old and cuts grass in Florida. I cut my yard and my mothers yard, (total about 2.5 acres).
1984 Toro self-propelled walk-behind mower. 3.5 h.p. Briggs and Straton - ditto to the above. (use it for trimming around trees, flower beds, ditches - runs about an hour every Saturday).
1977 Sears Craftsman garden tiller. 5 h.p. Briggs and Straton - tilling away on original motor. The tines and gearing for tines is about worn out from tilling in this Florida sand, but motor is running strong.
Early 80's Onan motor on pump. We use this to pump water out of irrigation ditch into water tank. Tank is 500 gallons and we fill tank about once a week. Have replaced hoses twice because they rotted sitting in the sun. Other than that - no problem.
I have been using whatever non-detergent 30W I can find. Some batches of "Accel" brand I purchases at Walmart - oil is clear like water. "Unilube" from Dollar General is a real pretty honey gold. Picked up some "Freds" non-detergent 40W but haven't used it yet.
Bottom line - if the fella's who built the thing say, Use non-detergent . . ." Then I think it's okay to use it. Let your oil conscience be your guide.
 
"keeps the trash at the bottom, so the splash won't pick it up" it might soon build up, i would personally use a high detergent 30, or rotella..., it'll keep the engine clean, i also have a old 12hp I/C, its a 89 or 88, sure, it uses a bit of oil, has always had a detergent oil used by all of the previous 2 owners, (yes 2) and they had pretty big yards one was a acre with lots of trees, and had been used as a backup commercial mower for that guy, and the other a acre..... but of course the exhaust valve leaks oil, and the oil control ring has either broke, or is just worn out..... I'll know when I tear it apart in a couple years or so.

I just think you'd be better running Rotella, its a good oil. Remember one thing.... the manufacturer doesn't make much money, if the machine lasts a long time.
 
Honda and Briggs and Stratton both specifically denote the use of detergent engine oil with an API service classification of at least SJ. I know for a fact, because I'm a dork and I just looked it up
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Almost every generator/lawnmower/pressure washer I've seen recommends a detergent 10w30 or something like it, but then again, I haven't worked on every generator/lawnmower/pressure washer on earth.

The Champion engines are probably just built differently. If the manufacturer specifies you use a non-detergent SAE 30 weight oil, I would follow their recommendation. If you want to go the extra mile, maybe just change the oil out more often, use a high quality brand, or something like that instead of tinkering around. Just my two cents.
 
theres a problem here. you cant have a non detergent oil with an api rating of atleast sf or sj. those ratings imply that there is detergents present in the oil.

so on one hand they say to use non detergent oil. on the other hand they say use a detergent oil.

doesnt make much sence.
 
interesting, whoever wrote that probably doesnt know a single thing about oil. whoever proof reads their stuff also knows very little about oil.

someone should email the webmaster and point out this technicality to them. i suppose depending on which answer is truely correct you could poetntialy have people doing harm to their engines.
 
So would a multi-viscosity like Rotella be safe? Or would I be better off using a straight 40 weight? The unit will be used in temps ranging from 70-100.
 
I think the non-detergent oil thing was a typo. I can't remember the last time I saw a non-detergent oil recommended for anything. Also, if you go to the link for your generator, it gives you a chart like this that specifies an SF or SJ rated oil:

Oil Recommendations
SF or SJ SAE Rated

Climate Oil Weight Temperature

Cold.......... SAE 20..........+/- 32°F
Medium.......... SAE 30.......... 33°F - 70°F
Hot.......... SAE 40.......... 70°F - 100°F
Extreme.......... SAE 50.......... +100°F
http://www.cpeauto.com/de3500w_gen.htm

I could believe them recommending a straight weight 30/40. I checked out the Autozone/Advance Auto websites, and they don't even sell non-detergent SAE 30 in my area! I would imagine it's pretty hard to find at all anymore.

(BTW, have you ever tried to find something on Autozone's website? Their webmaster must have been smoking crack!)
 
I beleive you'd be pleased with Rotella, I beleive it has to be a typo, the only places I see that crappy non detergent is in cheap stores like the Dollar General, or the Family Dollar next to the good oil.....
 
You and your collection of lawn equipment have been throughly shamed. The fact that everything is over 20 years old and still running doesn't amount to a hill of beans in this new scientific era. It would be better for you not to talk for a while.
 
Thats funny..... don't feel left out though, you've obviously have had good service from the stuff, though you cleaning them out from time to time is probablly what kept them clean. That and the fact they were all briggs except the onan, they are good engines as well...
 
Another manufacturer ... and other oil recommendation that has us scratching our heads. (see the discussion here about Briggs & Stratton
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)

It can't be a simple misprint or typo as they seem to go on about not keeping particles in suspension.

My solution? Use a detergent oil and drain it (hot!) more frequently. That's what the other engine mfrs do.

I especially like HDEOs for infrequently used equipment because of their high TBN ... good for protection while being stored.

Um, this is a Champion generator? What make of engine?

--- Bror Jace
 
It's a cloned Honda GX200... If it last half as long as the Honda I will be thrilled. So far I can report that it's half as loud as my Briggs & Stratton 6.5. If these Chinese Honda clones prove to be reliable it could mean big trouble for B&S. On another note... why does B&S still make flat head engines? In my experience they are loud, inefficient, and rough running. Can someone shed some light on this question?
 
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