Winter oil recommendation

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In my 2012 GMC. I've had the oil consumption problem fixed with new pistons,rings,drive chain and guides, etc. About a month later I had a collapsed lifter which has been fixed under warranty. I had all remaining lifters replaced as well by my own expense. I have about 61,ooo miles on the odo. I bought it in 2016 with 42,xxx miles on it. So anyways, I'll be changing the oil soon, probably in Oct. I have a jug of 5w30 PP. But I was thinking to save that for next spring. Maybe for winter I'll run Mobil 1 5w30 EP or 0w30. This is where I would like your suggestions.

Use my 5w30 PP or use mobil1 5w30ep or mobil1 0w30. I'm actually leaning towards mobil 1 5w30 EP cause I do a lot of remote starts to warm the interior of the vehicle .

Thanks in advance.
 
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Originally Posted by Neptune
I do a lot of remote starts to warm the interior of the vehicle.
Everyone does. 5W30 is fine, PA is not that cold to my knowledge. I live in Toronto and it is still well within 5W30 territory.
 
Any of those oils will do about the same. I'd pick the M1 for it's better pouring [big bottle neck].
 
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Like in my sig, Pennzoil is all I use. 5W-30 in my wife's and son's car and 5W-20 in my Ram.

I don't know with a 100% certainty, but I am guessing our winters are a little colder than yours?
 
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Because the manufacturer recommends an oil to meet its CAFE numbers, not what is necessarily best for the overall life of the engine. Thicker oils cost precious MPGs, so they will go with the lowest common denominator that will keep their warranty claims low until people mileage- or time-out of warranty. After that point their focus is on selling said person a new vehicle...

I've gone up two weight classes of oil on my 2006 Odyssey and the UOAs look better than ever...
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Because the manufacturer recommends an oil to meet its CAFE numbers, not what is necessarily best for the overall life of the engine. Thicker oils cost precious MPGs, so they will go with the lowest common denominator that will keep their warranty claims low until people mileage- or time-out of warranty. After that point their focus is on selling said person a new vehicle...

I've gone up two weight classes of oil on my 2006 Odyssey and the UOAs look better than ever...


I have tried those thinner oils that claim higher mileage to date not one of them have delivered even a 10th of a mile increase on that promise in my Corolla or my Duramax.
 
Originally Posted by BAJA_05
Another vote for PP 5W30!!! Man have you had warranty issues with the GM 2.4L so far.
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Baja_05,
Yes and no. The excessive oil consumption is a known problem. I received a letter from GM telling me they've extended the warranty to have that issue fixed if a oil consumption test is performed and shows
more than 1 qt. oil used in 2,0000 miles. My Dealership was real good about it. No problems at all. Vehicle so far has consumed no oil at all. shortly after, the engine suffered a collapsed lifter. I think it mat have
been from the previous work done for the oil consumption. I'm just guessing though. I bought an extended warranty for the vehicle for peace of mind. That warranty covered the labor and parts for the collapsed lifter.
While in there, the dealership asked if I wanted the remaining lifters replaced and I said go ahead. I had to pay for the additional work, but the cost was reasonable. So far no other problems and all has been good.
 
Originally Posted by BossMoss
I don't get why you can't simply go by what the manufacturer recommends.


I do. The owner's manual calls for 5w30. No particular brand name is suggested. The dealership uses A.C. Delco full synthetic which supposedly is the same as Mobil 1 or Mobil Super synthetic.
That's what is in the engine now.
 
I thought of using Mobil1 EP because of the extra additives for the 15,000 miles. Figured it would handle fuel dilution from idling during remote starts better than PP.
No?
 
i live in eastern Pa + use mobil I 10-30 EP year around without issue. even though its a "fake" synthetic it flows better than a conventional that many used without issue in the past
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Because the manufacturer recommends an oil to meet its CAFE numbers, not what is necessarily best for the overall life of the engine. Thicker oils cost precious MPGs, so they will go with the lowest common denominator that will keep their warranty claims low until people mileage- or time-out of warranty. After that point their focus is on selling said person a new vehicle...

I've gone up two weight classes of oil on my 2006 Odyssey and the UOAs look better than ever...


Using thicker oil means the engine is working harder, burning more fuel, having more friction. Thinner oil means saving gas and the engine not having to strain as much.

Less straining means the engine would last longer.
 
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