Diagnosing gas furnace

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Just by pass the thermostat by shorting the wire out (Twist the R wire and the W wire together ). No need to buy another one yet.
 
Yep, I realize it can be bypassed. It was one cold night and we really don't need it for a few weeks. I found a replacement board for $60 and can put it next week. Glad to find it before it was truly needed.
 
I mis-stated that the pressure switch "controls" the inducer motor. The pressure switch monitors that the inducer is running before the gas valve is actuated.
 
Originally Posted by marine65
Call a professional before you do any harm to yourself, family or home.


What a an obnoxious and useless comment.
 
Originally Posted by Oro_O
Glad to find it before it was truly needed.


Always test your central heat and A/C when you really don't need it near the beginning of the season!
 
Originally Posted by Oro_O
Originally Posted by marine65
Call a professional before you do any harm to yourself, family or home.


What a an obnoxious and useless comment.

He did, he asked here! I was guessing the board before I got this far in the thread-my Lennox seems to kill one every couple of years, to the point that I picked up a spare one. They're only available from the Lennox wholesaler, and they always seem to die on the weekend in cold weather, go figure!
 
Originally Posted by Oro_O
Originally Posted by marine65
Call a professional before you do any harm to yourself, family or home.


What a an obnoxious and useless comment.


Really?
My son is a master HVAC technician.
He has told me some pretty sad stories of amateurs trying to fix their furnaces.
People have no idea how dangerous gas furnaces can be.
The advice was given based on that.
 
Just a follow up, I got the new control board today. With one small change, it popped right in and everything works great. A few hours of my time and $60 vs. what would have been a $600 to $800 service call I estimate.

The small change, I will mention in case anyone ever relies on this, is that instead of a power lead to "low cool," you run it to the "hi cool" on the new board. I installed the board as the old one was, and it did not work properly. Once I switched this lead, all was good. I knew to be prepared for this as someone on Amazon.com or someplace had mentioned that, so it did not slow me down or baffle me.

I appreciate all the constructive help and am always impressed with the quality of DIY help I get on this board on a wide variety of topics. It's great that people take the time to share their knowledge and I try to pay it back where I can (I help and moderate at some make-specific car boards).

Thanks again!
 
are you any good with component level repairs?
many times the issue on these is either a bad solder joint or the zener and resistor it uses to get the +5v that runs the micro.
i fix a ton of these boards.
take a shot at fixing it and have a spare.
 
Originally Posted by marine65
Call a professional before you do any harm to yourself, family or home.

in some cases i would agree but the o.p was already on the right path.
i see the results of units worked over by those that present a hazard just owning a screwdriver.
clearly not the case here.
 
Originally Posted by kc8adu
are you any good with component level repairs?
many times the issue on these is either a bad solder joint or the zener and resistor it uses to get the +5v that runs the micro.
i fix a ton of these boards.
take a shot at fixing it and have a spare.


Thanks for the tip. I saw nothing obvious, but that's a good idea to see if I can create a spare.
 
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