Ever since I got my Saab I've been scratching my head about this. My Saab 9-5 is the first car I've owned that's called for 0W-40, every other car I've had called for a 5w-30 or a 10w-30. My question is this, it just seems like 0W is the best because it'll flow quicker to all the parts when the cars started. So why don't all manufacturers use it? Why is 5w or even 10w still a thing? My Saab calls for 0w-40 for quick lubrication upon start up and 40 weight when hot to keep that turbo lubed up. Just makes sense.
Is 0W weight oil the perfect oil?
- Thread starter Baas95
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted by Shannow
There is no more "flow quicker" between a 0W and a 5W where I live
OP is in Canada, he may see -40.
There is no perfect oil, just different types.
There is no more "flow quicker" between a 0W and a 5W where I live
OP is in Canada, he may see -40.
There is no perfect oil, just different types.
Perfect? For your situation, turbo in Canada, it might just be perfect...
Why would anyone use a 5w? What benefits does it have over a 0w ? Here is a video that shows both 5w and 0w flowing out of a bottle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1x1FgV_1-w
Now I've seen cars like the newer BMW m3 call for 10w-60, I get the 60 part, but why the 10w?
Now I've seen cars like the newer BMW m3 call for 10w-60, I get the 60 part, but why the 10w?
Of course there is no "0W" weight oil as per your title. Is 0W-40 only grade listed or are there others? The owner's manuals I saw online listed several others.
Originally Posted by Baas95
Why would anyone use a 5w? What benefits does it have over a 0w ? Here is a video that shows both 5w and 0w flowing out of a bottle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1x1FgV_1-w
Now I've seen cars like the newer BMW m3 call for 10w-60, I get the 60 part, but why the 10w?
"Flow" is irrelevant for the most part, it is about cold-cranking and pumpability. Unless you are well below zero F there will be no difference in either one between a 0W-XX and a 5W-XX. Those YouTube videos don't mean much when it comes to actually starting an engine and whether the oil pumps or not. Fun to watch but not pertinent.
Why would anyone use a 5w? What benefits does it have over a 0w ? Here is a video that shows both 5w and 0w flowing out of a bottle. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1x1FgV_1-w
Now I've seen cars like the newer BMW m3 call for 10w-60, I get the 60 part, but why the 10w?
"Flow" is irrelevant for the most part, it is about cold-cranking and pumpability. Unless you are well below zero F there will be no difference in either one between a 0W-XX and a 5W-XX. Those YouTube videos don't mean much when it comes to actually starting an engine and whether the oil pumps or not. Fun to watch but not pertinent.
Originally Posted by kschachn
Of course there is no "0W" weight oil as per your title. Is 0W-40 only grade listed or are there others? The owner's manuals I saw online listed several others.
I meant 0W-(whatever), doesn't matter, could be 20, 30 ,40, 50, 60... I'm just trying to understand why anything higher than 0W would be desired when starting a cold engine.
Of course there is no "0W" weight oil as per your title. Is 0W-40 only grade listed or are there others? The owner's manuals I saw online listed several others.
I meant 0W-(whatever), doesn't matter, could be 20, 30 ,40, 50, 60... I'm just trying to understand why anything higher than 0W would be desired when starting a cold engine.
Originally Posted by Baas95
I meant 0W-(whatever), doesn't matter, could be 20, 30 ,40, 50, 60... I'm just trying to understand why anything higher than 0W would be desired when starting a cold engine.
Because it only matters when the ambient temperature is far below zero, around -25 F. Up until that point a 5W can be thinner.
I meant 0W-(whatever), doesn't matter, could be 20, 30 ,40, 50, 60... I'm just trying to understand why anything higher than 0W would be desired when starting a cold engine.
Because it only matters when the ambient temperature is far below zero, around -25 F. Up until that point a 5W can be thinner.
As the video showed, at -30 it matters. Above which temperature does the difference between a 0w and a 5w stop being relevant? I understand on a hot summer day when it's pushing 30s out it wouldn't matter. Would just like to know precisely.
The 0w30 clearly blew away the 5w30 at -30C but the differences diminish as the temperature gets higher. We need a test at -20C to show at that temp there would be no difference. Why 0w40? Because they can. It's a very common formulation.
Originally Posted by Baas95
As the video showed, at -30 it matters. Above which temperature does the difference between a 0w and a 5w stop being relevant? I understand on a hot summer day when it's pushing 30s out it wouldn't matter. Would just like to know precisely.
If the oil is not gelled to the point it cannot be pumped then they will all "flow". That is what the oil pump is for.
Like I said before it only becomes relevant well below 0F.
As the video showed, at -30 it matters. Above which temperature does the difference between a 0w and a 5w stop being relevant? I understand on a hot summer day when it's pushing 30s out it wouldn't matter. Would just like to know precisely.
If the oil is not gelled to the point it cannot be pumped then they will all "flow". That is what the oil pump is for.
Like I said before it only becomes relevant well below 0F.
Originally Posted by Baas95
So why don't all manufacturers use it? Why is 5w or even 10w still a thing? My Saab calls for 0w-40 for quick lubrication upon start up and 40 weight when hot to keep that turbo lubed up. Just makes sense.
Cost and compromised performance.
At a volume market price you will have severely compromised high temperature performance and stay in grade performance.
I use 10w30 around here spring through fall to keep my engine powerful and running on all cylinders evenly. Gum and varnish in the rings typically manifests itself with poor cylinder (power)balance and vibration and loss of torque.
0W is meaningless above -30C. My cars are NOT garaged so I don't drive below -20C. Quickly Ruins OTHER parts of the car
So why don't all manufacturers use it? Why is 5w or even 10w still a thing? My Saab calls for 0w-40 for quick lubrication upon start up and 40 weight when hot to keep that turbo lubed up. Just makes sense.
Cost and compromised performance.
At a volume market price you will have severely compromised high temperature performance and stay in grade performance.
I use 10w30 around here spring through fall to keep my engine powerful and running on all cylinders evenly. Gum and varnish in the rings typically manifests itself with poor cylinder (power)balance and vibration and loss of torque.
0W is meaningless above -30C. My cars are NOT garaged so I don't drive below -20C. Quickly Ruins OTHER parts of the car
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Cost and compromised performance.
At a volume market price you will have severely compromised high temperature performance and stay in grade performance.
I use 10w30 around here spring through fall to keep my engine powerful and running on all cylinders evenly. Gum and varnish in the rings typically manifests itself with poor cylinder (power)balance and vibration and loss of torque.
0W is meaningless above -30C. My cars are NOT garaged so I don't drive below -20C. Quickly Ruins OTHER parts of the car
Interesting, I've never experienced a loss of power and cylinder misfire on my BMW running Castrol 0W-40. Nor have I seen poor cylinder (power) balance nor vibration and loss of torque. Should I use a 10W-30 instead? Will that help with the severely compromised high-temperature performance problem you say I have with it? Are you saying BMW doesn't account for that in Longlife-01 testing?
Also I've not seen it fall out of grade.
And the cost? It's very reasonable at Walmart.
Cost and compromised performance.
At a volume market price you will have severely compromised high temperature performance and stay in grade performance.
I use 10w30 around here spring through fall to keep my engine powerful and running on all cylinders evenly. Gum and varnish in the rings typically manifests itself with poor cylinder (power)balance and vibration and loss of torque.
0W is meaningless above -30C. My cars are NOT garaged so I don't drive below -20C. Quickly Ruins OTHER parts of the car
Interesting, I've never experienced a loss of power and cylinder misfire on my BMW running Castrol 0W-40. Nor have I seen poor cylinder (power) balance nor vibration and loss of torque. Should I use a 10W-30 instead? Will that help with the severely compromised high-temperature performance problem you say I have with it? Are you saying BMW doesn't account for that in Longlife-01 testing?
Also I've not seen it fall out of grade.
And the cost? It's very reasonable at Walmart.
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by Baas95
So why don't all manufacturers use it? Why is 5w or even 10w still a thing? My Saab calls for 0w-40 for quick lubrication upon start up and 40 weight when hot to keep that turbo lubed up. Just makes sense.
Cost and compromised performance.
At a volume market price you will have severely compromised high temperature performance and stay in grade performance.
I use 10w30 around here spring through fall to keep my engine powerful and running on all cylinders evenly. Gum and varnish in the rings typically manifests itself with poor cylinder (power)balance and vibration and loss of torque.
0W is meaningless above -30C. My cars are NOT garaged so I don't drive below -20C. Quickly Ruins OTHER parts of the car
Ruins other parts of the car?
Originally Posted by Baas95
So why don't all manufacturers use it? Why is 5w or even 10w still a thing? My Saab calls for 0w-40 for quick lubrication upon start up and 40 weight when hot to keep that turbo lubed up. Just makes sense.
Cost and compromised performance.
At a volume market price you will have severely compromised high temperature performance and stay in grade performance.
I use 10w30 around here spring through fall to keep my engine powerful and running on all cylinders evenly. Gum and varnish in the rings typically manifests itself with poor cylinder (power)balance and vibration and loss of torque.
0W is meaningless above -30C. My cars are NOT garaged so I don't drive below -20C. Quickly Ruins OTHER parts of the car
Ruins other parts of the car?
I've always wondered too. 0W20/0W40 are a newer oils thanks to R & D they're able to create an oil with such a gap. I agree that at +20c it doesn't make any difference, but why have 2 different viscosities when now only one would do? That adds to the cost of production, now I can see why 0W20/0W40 are produced, but where fuel economy is not a factor why not go with 0W40 and be done with it? So you are covered at -30 and +30
Originally Posted by Baas95
Ever since I got my Saab I've been scratching my head about this. My Saab 9-5 is the first car I've owned that's called for 0W-40, every other car I've had called for a 5w-30 or a 10w-30. My question is this, it just seems like 0W is the best because it'll flow quicker to all the parts when the cars started. So why don't all manufacturers use it? Why is 5w or even 10w still a thing? My Saab calls for 0w-40 for quick lubrication upon start up and 40 weight when hot to keep that turbo lubed up. Just makes sense.
The reason is because although there are benefits to having a lower "w" rating, there are also usually trade offs. The most common being the addition of more viscosity improving compounds and thickeners to help reach that hot flow rating. In general the more VI added to the formulation, the faster the oil will shear down to a thinner grade throughout an OCI.
For instance, if there are to be no really cold starts, a 10 or 15w-40 may be a good option for those looking to do longer OCIs, as the oil will generally not shear down as quickly as a 0 or 5w-40 might.
At least that is the way I understand it. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Ever since I got my Saab I've been scratching my head about this. My Saab 9-5 is the first car I've owned that's called for 0W-40, every other car I've had called for a 5w-30 or a 10w-30. My question is this, it just seems like 0W is the best because it'll flow quicker to all the parts when the cars started. So why don't all manufacturers use it? Why is 5w or even 10w still a thing? My Saab calls for 0w-40 for quick lubrication upon start up and 40 weight when hot to keep that turbo lubed up. Just makes sense.
The reason is because although there are benefits to having a lower "w" rating, there are also usually trade offs. The most common being the addition of more viscosity improving compounds and thickeners to help reach that hot flow rating. In general the more VI added to the formulation, the faster the oil will shear down to a thinner grade throughout an OCI.
For instance, if there are to be no really cold starts, a 10 or 15w-40 may be a good option for those looking to do longer OCIs, as the oil will generally not shear down as quickly as a 0 or 5w-40 might.
At least that is the way I understand it. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Originally Posted by LotI
Shannow said:
- Status