Car is supposed to use 0w20. It's only a synthetic as far as I know. But I didn't think it really mattered before. Anyway I've not used w20 anything in it for over 100k miles and have used conventional half the time. Always 5 or 10 w 30 or 5 w40. Didn't really think much about it until recently. Now that I've been reading on bitog. Keeps me thinking too much about it lol. Anyway apparently after 130k miles I guess it's safe to say it hasn't hurt anything. I've used several Purolator filters. A couple fram and mobile 1 filters and wix. Only the fram filter ever caused an issue. Ive used any brand of oil that's on sale or cheap including store brands with never anything to cause a noticable difference. I sorta don't think most people worry much about these things like on here lol. Latley I can't seem to stop thinking about it now lol
Synthetic oil overrated??
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There is no doubt that conventional oils have come a long way but synthetic is better in performance because of its make up and general additive package found in these more expensive oils. You can find quality synthetic in the U.S. for just a bit more than Conventional and can reap all the benefits it has to offer which can go a long way in today's engines that can place additional stresses on oils.
If your vehicle calls for a 0w20 then I would use a synthetic because it might not just be the grade that the engineers had in mind but the more durable properties of a synthetic over a conventional as well. Eg: High Temperatures.
A UOA trend with the spec'ed oil and then changing to another viscosity or brand can help you determine the best choice for your engine and application.
If your vehicle calls for a 0w20 then I would use a synthetic because it might not just be the grade that the engineers had in mind but the more durable properties of a synthetic over a conventional as well. Eg: High Temperatures.
A UOA trend with the spec'ed oil and then changing to another viscosity or brand can help you determine the best choice for your engine and application.
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Patman
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Engines in the past have lasted a long time using just conventional oil, however if you have direct injection and/or you frequently start your engine in sub 0F weather, you're best chance of going over 200k on your engine will be with using synthetic oil.
If you're in the habit of buying a new car every 4-5 years and not putting a lot of miles on them, conventional oil will be just fine. At the same time, if you can get a killer deal on synthetic oil (and there are lots of deals out there), it doesn't make sense to use conventional.
If you're in the habit of buying a new car every 4-5 years and not putting a lot of miles on them, conventional oil will be just fine. At the same time, if you can get a killer deal on synthetic oil (and there are lots of deals out there), it doesn't make sense to use conventional.
from reading you will see many don't believe in very thin oils that help mpg's very little + protect the engine less!! i believe in synthetics but most today are group III highly processed crude oils, not REAL synthesized lubricants. in texas heat you are better with a 10-30 or more depending on your engine + how you use it. your location is important as well as what you are asking about, a truck a car towing or what!!
Originally Posted by Ablebody
Anyway apparently after 130k miles I guess it's safe to say it hasn't hurt anything.
Keep doing what you're doing. It's working fine for you. Now, you'll have naysayers who can predict the future and will say your engine will last longer if you had used "the right oil" all along but they don't have one iota of proof in saying that.
Originally Posted by Ablebody
Ive used any brand of oil that's on sale or cheap including store brands with never anything to cause a noticable difference.
That statement probably gave some members here a heart attack !
Anyway apparently after 130k miles I guess it's safe to say it hasn't hurt anything.
Keep doing what you're doing. It's working fine for you. Now, you'll have naysayers who can predict the future and will say your engine will last longer if you had used "the right oil" all along but they don't have one iota of proof in saying that.
Originally Posted by Ablebody
Ive used any brand of oil that's on sale or cheap including store brands with never anything to cause a noticable difference.
That statement probably gave some members here a heart attack !
wemay
Site Donor 2023
After 130K miles, i would stay the course.
Guessing this is a Newer Honda?
Originally Posted by Ablebody
Car is supposed to use 0w20. It's only a synthetic as far as I know. But I didn't think it really mattered before. Anyway I've not used w20 anything in it for over 100k miles and have used conventional half the time. Always 5 or 10 w 30 or 5 w40. Didn't really think much about it until recently. Now that I've been reading on bitog. Keeps me thinking too much about it lol. Anyway apparently after 130k miles I guess it's safe to say it hasn't hurt anything. I've used several Purolator filters. A couple fram and mobile 1 filters and wix. Only the fram filter ever caused an issue. Ive used any brand of oil that's on sale or cheap including store brands with never anything to cause a noticable difference. I sorta don't think most people worry much about these things like on here lol. Latley I can't seem to stop thinking about it now lol
Simple. You don't understand the primary purpose of synthetics. The primary purpose of synthetic automotive oil is to properly lubricate the engine over X+Y period of time. X being what conventional oil can deliver. Changing your oil every 3-5k miles using conventional isn't any better than changing every 10k miles using synthetic. Both perform the same and cost about the same amount of money or in some cases one side will be significantly cheaper.
Humans have a natural instinct to believe more is better in every facet of their lives. Performing short interval oil changes is just an example of that.
Car is supposed to use 0w20. It's only a synthetic as far as I know. But I didn't think it really mattered before. Anyway I've not used w20 anything in it for over 100k miles and have used conventional half the time. Always 5 or 10 w 30 or 5 w40. Didn't really think much about it until recently. Now that I've been reading on bitog. Keeps me thinking too much about it lol. Anyway apparently after 130k miles I guess it's safe to say it hasn't hurt anything. I've used several Purolator filters. A couple fram and mobile 1 filters and wix. Only the fram filter ever caused an issue. Ive used any brand of oil that's on sale or cheap including store brands with never anything to cause a noticable difference. I sorta don't think most people worry much about these things like on here lol. Latley I can't seem to stop thinking about it now lol
Simple. You don't understand the primary purpose of synthetics. The primary purpose of synthetic automotive oil is to properly lubricate the engine over X+Y period of time. X being what conventional oil can deliver. Changing your oil every 3-5k miles using conventional isn't any better than changing every 10k miles using synthetic. Both perform the same and cost about the same amount of money or in some cases one side will be significantly cheaper.
Humans have a natural instinct to believe more is better in every facet of their lives. Performing short interval oil changes is just an example of that.
240,XXX miles on my 2003 Toyota Highlander 2.4L using either Valvoline or Pennzoil 5w-30 with Mobil 1 Extended Perf. Filter and it's still going strong. I just checked the oil after haven driven 648 miles on it since previous change and it's still right at the full mark.
Today with SN+ both are really good blends and the performance of either closely resembles the other.
Originally Posted by Ablebody
Car is supposed to use 0w20. It's only a synthetic as far as I know. But I didn't think it really mattered before. Anyway I've not used w20 anything in it for over 100k miles and have used conventional half the time. Always 5 or 10 w 30 or 5 w40. Didn't really think much about it until recently. Now that I've been reading on bitog. Keeps me thinking too much about it lol. Anyway apparently after 130k miles I guess it's safe to say it hasn't hurt anything. I've used several Purolator filters. A couple fram and mobile 1 filters and wix. Only the fram filter ever caused an issue. Ive used any brand of oil that's on sale or cheap including store brands with never anything to cause a noticable difference. I sorta don't think most people worry much about these things like on here lol. Latley I can't seem to stop thinking about it now lol
What was the issue, exactly?
Car is supposed to use 0w20. It's only a synthetic as far as I know. But I didn't think it really mattered before. Anyway I've not used w20 anything in it for over 100k miles and have used conventional half the time. Always 5 or 10 w 30 or 5 w40. Didn't really think much about it until recently. Now that I've been reading on bitog. Keeps me thinking too much about it lol. Anyway apparently after 130k miles I guess it's safe to say it hasn't hurt anything. I've used several Purolator filters. A couple fram and mobile 1 filters and wix. Only the fram filter ever caused an issue. Ive used any brand of oil that's on sale or cheap including store brands with never anything to cause a noticable difference. I sorta don't think most people worry much about these things like on here lol. Latley I can't seem to stop thinking about it now lol
What was the issue, exactly?
You used 5wx30 10wx30 and 5wx40 when the car was new.
Now the car is much older, you are thinking about a thinner (0wx20).
I am not an expert but if any, it should have been the other way around.I
You can use synthetic, but I wouldn't use 0Wx20 now.
Now the car is much older, you are thinking about a thinner (0wx20).
I am not an expert but if any, it should have been the other way around.I
You can use synthetic, but I wouldn't use 0Wx20 now.
Not if you have TGDI or GDI
I think what you are saying is synthetic is not always needed. That is what Hyundai says for my 2.0 MPI engine. Running Chevron Supreme 10w-30 and it runs just as well as the 5w-20 and 5w-30 Synthetic I used. Mileage is about the same. The thing is 3,750 OCI is required for warranty. During Winter I will use synthetic for flow which costs about the same after rebate.
The Lexus NX300 in the garage will only get synthetic as Lexus likes it to have.
I would follow what the manufacturer recommends or would use oil better than recommended, not the other way around. A few dollars difference is not worth taking chances from my point of view.
The Lexus NX300 in the garage will only get synthetic as Lexus likes it to have.
I would follow what the manufacturer recommends or would use oil better than recommended, not the other way around. A few dollars difference is not worth taking chances from my point of view.
No it really doesn't matter unless you have a engine which beats on oil. Ford has tested run of the mill SN/GF-5 for it's Ecoboost line and found thier spec Motorcraft to be sufficient.
If you asked me a few years ago, I would say yes it is.
Currently, synthetic and conventional are so close in price, I just buy synthetic whenever it's on sale.
If I had to go to the store and buy oil now (for a non demanding car), it'd be Supertech conventional.
Currently, synthetic and conventional are so close in price, I just buy synthetic whenever it's on sale.
If I had to go to the store and buy oil now (for a non demanding car), it'd be Supertech conventional.
My own cars don't need or like synthetic oils, i'd rather use a high quality conventional as it's what suits them best.
Just a small car. 1.5 liter naturally aspirated
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