2018 Lexus GS350 TGMO 0W20 1046 first sample new car

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Dropped the FF on the new GS350 with a 2GR-FKS 3.5L V-6 at my house early, will post filter pics tomorrow but it was LOADED with metal. UOA looks much better than the filter did. Lexus recommends first service at 10,000, I've always dropped the oil early on new engines, for better or worse (likely not worse) I did it on this new car as well.

First service at ~1,000 miles, next service will be at 3,000 miles and 5,000 miles. Will run the 5k service out to 10K and bring the car in for it's free service.

High Moly from assembly lube, but Mg and Boron also quite stout.

Fram TG9972 replaced the OE filter, I will leave it in place for the next change and exchange it at the 5,000 change.

Enjoy.

GS350 1046 TGMO 0W20 TOYOTA FILTER.jpg
 
Not to steal your oil analysis thunder, but I'd rather see pics of the GS. That's a sweet ride. Good luck with it! What color interior did you get?
 
Originally Posted by Leo99
Not to steal your oil analysis thunder, but I'd rather see pics of the GS. That's a sweet ride. Good luck with it! What color interior did you get?



The car is Nightfall Mica with a flaxen interior.

IMG_1280.JPG
 
Originally Posted by Old Mustang Guy
I always did an early change until our 17 and 18 Toyotas. On them I did a change myself at 5k prior to the free change at 10k. I don't know what's best.


After years of machining and building engines it's hard for me to not change early when you see all the stuff that comes out on early filter cuts and oil drains. I'm certain 99% of new vehicles sold go the full interval before being serviced and they al seem to last just fine. I realize that this is a feel good thing for me and that the car/engine likely doesn't care. The previous Lexus I owned was purchased new by my Mother and went a full 5,000 before it's first service, we drove it to just shy of 200k when it was passed on to it's next owner not using any oil at all even on a 10k run and still produced less than 1 ppm Fe per 1,000 miles. Heck I think the 10,000 mile run it only had 6 ppm Fe, so it likely doesn't matter one bit, but it makes me feel better!
 
Originally Posted by FlyNavyP3
First service at ~1,000 miles, next service will be at 3,000 miles and 5,000 miles. Will run the 5k service out to 10K and bring the car in for it's free service.

Fram TG9972 replaced the OE filter, I will leave it in place for the next change and exchange it at the 5,000 change. Enjoy.


That's exactly what I've been doing on all my cars and never had a mechanical problem! Also in my case, I didn't like the construction of the OEM oil filter on my Lexus, so I went with a TRD oil filter and what a difference in construction, also almost 4 times the price. :)

Another thing I've never accepted is "Free Oil Changes" as they use the cheapest oil available, I mush prefer paying for it and know it was done properly
 
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The Copper and Silicon is most likely sealant material and when I changed my factory fill at 200km the cartridge filter housing was full of what looked like metal bits but it was actually grey sealant material that appears shiny like metal. Metal would be sharp and this was pliable. Also the TGMO is a high moly oil so it's most likely that as well as assembly lube for the high number in your sample.

I have the 2GR-FKS in my Highlander with the 8 Speed. I did the second change at 1200km and then the next change at 3,000km. Now I'm running 8,000km and will sample for analysis.

Thanks as well for posting your UOA of the 0w20 TGMO, I was interested to see a UOA of this oil in the engine we share.
 
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Originally Posted by FlyNavyP3
Originally Posted by Old Mustang Guy
I always did an early change until our 17 and 18 Toyotas. On them I did a change myself at 5k prior to the free change at 10k. I don't know what's best.


After years of machining and building engines it's hard for me to not change early when you see all the stuff that comes out on early filter cuts and oil drains. I'm certain 99% of new vehicles sold go the full interval before being serviced and they al seem to last just fine. I realize that this is a feel good thing for me and that the car/engine likely doesn't care. The previous Lexus I owned was purchased new by my Mother and went a full 5,000 before it's first service, we drove it to just shy of 200k when it was passed on to it's next owner not using any oil at all even on a 10k run and still produced less than 1 ppm Fe per 1,000 miles. Heck I think the 10,000 mile run it only had 6 ppm Fe, so it likely doesn't matter one bit, but it makes me feel better!


This post should be the default answer whenever someone asks about early oil change on a new engine.
 
Originally Posted by Pelican
Originally Posted by FlyNavyP3
First service at ~1,000 miles, next service will be at 3,000 miles and 5,000 miles. Will run the 5k service out to 10K and bring the car in for it's free service.

Fram TG9972 replaced the OE filter, I will leave it in place for the next change and exchange it at the 5,000 change. Enjoy.


That's exactly what I've been doing on all my cars and never had a mechanical problem! Also in my case, I didn't like the construction of the OEM oil filter on my Lexus, so I went with a TRD oil filter and what a difference in construction, also almost 4 times the price. :)

Another thing I've never accepted is "Free Oil Changes" as they use the cheapest oil available, I mush prefer paying for it and know it was done properly


The free oil changes provided by Toyota/Lexus in my experience have at least on the service invoices have been billed out as TGMO and a genuine filter. I also have a TRD filter for this car but I'm not sure I'll continue with them as the cost is prohibitively expensive compared to a Tough Guard or Ultra which are both more efficient at 20 microns. The TG at 99% and the Ultra at 99.9% and the TRD filter at 98%. All are better than the OE filter at somewhere around 50% at 20 microns. The TRD filter sure is a beautiful filter, if the Ultra was built the same way it'd absolutely be my go to but the detached plastic end caps on some of the Ultra cartridges worry me a little.
 
Originally Posted by StevieC
The Copper and Silicon is most likely sealant material and when I changed my factory fill at 200km the cartridge filter housing was full of what looked like metal bits but it was actually grey sealant material that appears shiny like metal. Metal would be sharp and this was pliable. Also the TGMO is a high moly oil so it's most likely that as well as assembly lube for the high number in your sample.

I have the 2GR-FKS in my Highlander with the 8 Speed. I did the second change at 1200km and then the next change at 3,000km. Now I'm running 8,000km and will sample for analysis.

Thanks as well for posting your UOA of the 0w20 TGMO, I was interested to see a UOA of this oil in the engine we share.


Happy to contribute, used the Wix kit for a little savings once wear metals plateau I'll move back over to Blackstone reports for the remainder of the cars life.
 
Two of the local Jacksonville Toyota dealerships both used TGMO on my friends 2016 Tacoma that I was caring for while he was deployed. When asked Coggin Toyota told me that the oil changes paid for by Toyota under Toyota Care always used TGMO, service outside of the free oil changes the customer had the choice of Pennzoil Platinum or TGMO, the TGMO was the higher cost option by almost $30. Keith Pearson Toyota also used TGMO for free changes but offered Mobil oil, service advisor couldn't tell me if it was Mobil 1 or Mobil Super again with TGMO available as an additional cost. Both dealerships exclusively use Toyota filters.
 
Originally Posted by FlyNavyP3
Originally Posted by Old Mustang Guy
I always did an early change until our 17 and 18 Toyotas. On them I did a change myself at 5k prior to the free change at 10k. I don't know what's best.


After years of machining and building engines it's hard for me to not change early when you see all the stuff that comes out on early filter cuts and oil drains. I'm certain 99% of new vehicles sold go the full interval before being serviced and they al seem to last just fine. I realize that this is a feel good thing for me and that the car/engine likely doesn't care. The previous Lexus I owned was purchased new by my Mother and went a full 5,000 before it's first service, we drove it to just shy of 200k when it was passed on to it's next owner not using any oil at all even on a 10k run and still produced less than 1 ppm Fe per 1,000 miles. Heck I think the 10,000 mile run it only had 6 ppm Fe, so it likely doesn't matter one bit, but it makes me feel better!


Not that it matters to you but I appreciate your honesty. The first step of the 12 step program is admitting that you suffer from wrench boredom. It's refreshing to read vs all typical contorted reasoning used to justify wrenching on their cars.
 
Standby for an updated sample to be submitted this week as I drop the oil at ~2,000 miles on the oil and 3,000 on the car and submit another sample. As discussed in the beginning of this thread I'm planning on changing the oil at 1k (done with filter change) 3k (no filter change) 5k (filter change) and 10k (free dealership service) I'll run that for 5k out to 15k vehicle miles and do LOF at 15k and 20k then likely 10k thereafter.
 
Originally Posted by FlyNavyP3
Standby for an updated sample to be submitted this week as I drop the oil at ~2,000 miles on the oil and 3,000 on the car and submit another sample. As discussed in the beginning of this thread I'm planning on changing the oil at 1k (done with filter change) 3k (no filter change) 5k (filter change) and 10k (free dealership service) I'll run that for 5k out to 15k vehicle miles and do LOF at 15k and 20k then likely 10k thereafter.



Will an UOA be done for every oc? I have Toyota V6 and did my oc @1K, 5K, 10k. The 1st oc was a Blackstone oil analysis and I would like to compare data at 10K. All oc were Toyota filters and TGMO.
 
Yes I plan to use UOA on the short runs to determine/confirm viability of the 10k change with our use pattern of the car. The UOA on the short changes will be the less expensive WIX kits until wear starts to plateau then I will transition to Blackstone samples for the duration of the cars use with my family. I collect UOA as much as a hobby as anything else but is has also been a useful tool for determining developing issues in equipment/components for me in the past. Will likely transition to Blackstone analysis at the 10k sample which will be a 5k run.
 
Great,great color of your new car. Wow. That is striking.

Gonna call you "big money" from now on
lol.gif




Very good report here obviously. You have added a lot of good information on here with your UOAs.
 
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