Change Oil Or Not?

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Originally Posted by Steelshoe
My rides have been a mixture of both. Some 40-50 mile rides, maybe a little further than that, some 25-30 mile rides, a few 10-15 mile rides, and some quick trips to the store type rides. Like I said, the oil looks as clean as the day it came out of the bottle. As I posted above, two HD techs I've asked about it told me to go ahead and ride it until I get to about 5,000 miles on the oil, then change. They said 1500 miles on a fresh synthetic oil change is nothing. When I asked them about the two year time span, one of them said "that oil has no idea it's two years old!" LOL Funny, but it makes sense when you think about how long it may have sat on a shelf somewhere in a store.


The one sitting on the shelf somewhere would most likely be considered new. The one in use in your engine, no matter how many miles are on it would be considered used.
Not an apples to apples comparison.
 
I would say leave it. What you can do is a UOA after you're done riding it next summer. See how it held up.
 
I've ran oil for 2 years in low use vehicles, but I always made sure they were driven a long time before parking for extended periods - that's the key. I never saw any signs inside the engine of any corrosion or rust, and cut open oil filter looked 100% fine ... do debris seen.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
I've ran oil for 2 years in low use vehicles, but I always made sure they were driven a long time before parking for extended periods - that's the key. I never saw any signs inside the engine of any corrosion or rust, and cut open oil filter looked 100% fine ... do debris seen.


Yeah, a good hour long ride at highway speeds to "burn off" any moisture and fuel dilution then park it is not a bad idea.
 
usually I do 3 oil changes per season...early spring, mid season, late autumn; this year will be only 2 due to reduced miles ridden; I will do a 'winter storage' oil change in autumn & change it out in the spring...usually Ii accumulate 500-750 miles with riding during late season before storage & early season after storage; this also serves as my annual oil flush; oil used is a frankenbrew of leftover 10w-40 & 15w-40 conventional & synblend oils...sometimes I will thin out with 10w-30 hdeo or supertech lawnmower oil (no 'energy conserving or resource conserving' ratings...
 
Mobil 1 is excellent FS oil. If it were my bike, I would not change before storage.

Although the discussion is interesting, but I think you are "over worrying" about this.

On the other hand, I would recommend if the bike is in cold & humid environment to fill up the fuel and if for more than 3 months, add some sta-bil
 
I just read that oil filters don't last for more than a year without deteriorating. Never heard that before. I'm OK with the oil being run for another year, but now what about the oil filter. Anyone ever hear that? I'm using HD's 5 micron filter, btw.
 
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Originally Posted by Steelshoe
I just read that oil filters don't last for more than a year without deteriorating. Never heard that before. I'm OK with the oil being run for another year, but now what about the oil filter. Anyone ever hear that? I'm using HD's 5 micron filter, btw.


It isn't a problem.

Heres one with well over a year on it.

Cut Open Harley Davidson Super Premium 5
 
Originally Posted by Steelshoe
I just read that oil filters don't last for more than a year without deteriorating.


Bogus info ... where did you read that?
 
OK.......I'm NOT changing it! Talked to some friends with classic cars (hot rods). They drive less than 500 miles a year, and told me they don't change their oil for several years. And these are $30-40,000 automobiles. Never had any problems.
 
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There are conflicting responses, but here's what I noticed: nobody had any oil-related issues or premature engine wear -- not those who change oil yearly no matter what, nor those who go multiple seasons on a change. It sounds like you are using high quality detergent oil... I say run it.
 
Originally Posted by irv
There's a reason most/all oil manus and vehicle manus recommend annual oil changes despite the amount of miles on the oil

It very well could be fine still but personally I'd change it out.

I ride snowmobiles and the last few I have only gotten out a few times each season due to my son's hockey. It pains me to dump it, synthetic at that, but out it goes every spring just before summer storage.


The reason they recommend annual change is to CYA on warranty claims, and to keep some less educated people from going 10 years at 10 hours per year on an oil change. My Sea-doo's I go three years and less than 50 hours in that time. These engine have no stop and go driving, or winter start up issues a car would have. At 3 years and 50 hours the oil still comes out golden in colour. My 1100 Yamaha V-start I go 4000 miles in about 2-3 years. Those engine run hot and the amount of moisture in the oil is nil. Don't waste your money with annual changes when not needed.
 
Originally Posted by Bluestream
Originally Posted by irv
There's a reason most/all oil manus and vehicle manus recommend annual oil changes despite the amount of miles on the oil

It very well could be fine still but personally I'd change it out.

I ride snowmobiles and the last few I have only gotten out a few times each season due to my son's hockey. It pains me to dump it, synthetic at that, but out it goes every spring just before summer storage.


The reason they recommend annual change is to CYA on warranty claims, and to keep some less educated people from going 10 years at 10 hours per year on an oil change. My Sea-doo's I go three years and less than 50 hours in that time. These engine have no stop and go driving, or winter start up issues a car would have. At 3 years and 50 hours the oil still comes out golden in colour. My 1100 Yamaha V-start I go 4000 miles in about 2-3 years. Those engine run hot and the amount of moisture in the oil is nil. Don't waste your money with annual changes when not needed.



You could have a point? I know many get sucked into believing places like Jiffy Lube's or other quick oil change places 3000 mile oil change intervals are recommended and necessary but I've always believed the one year no matter how many miles recommendation due to the oil acquiring acids, moisture and other nasty bi-products.

I guess until it is proven that oils can last longer than a year and they change that recommendation, I will follow it. Maybe I am being foolish and I dump my oil way to soon on my snowmobile which only holds 3 ltrs, but I know I sleep better at night knowing fresh oil is there.
grin.gif
 
There are lots of UOA's on this site of people with 3-4 year old oil that is perfectly fine. One guy had 4 year old oil in his tractor that tested fine, but he changed it at 4 years. MY BMW is 28 years old and I do 3 year oil changes. Before I was a BITOG guy, my oil changes were every 120 days regardless.

Think about it; one year old oil has moisture that can wreck your engine at 1000 KMs use?

Motor oil changes are usually scheduled based on the time in service or the distance that the vehicle has traveled. These are rough indications of the real factors that control when an oil change is appropriate, which include how long the oil has been run at elevated temperatures, how many heating cycles the engine has been through, and how hard the engine has worked. The vehicle distance is intended to estimate the time at high temperature, while the time in service is supposed to correlate with the number of vehicle trips and capture the number of heating cycles. Oil does not degrade significantly just sitting in a cold engine. On the other hand, if a car is driven just for very short distances, the oil is not allowed to fully heat-up, and contaminants such as water accumulates in the oil, due to lack of sufficient heat to boil off the water. Oil of this nature, just sitting in an engine, can cause problems.
 
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Originally Posted by Bluestream
On the other hand, if a car is driven just for very short distances, the oil is not allowed to fully heat-up, and contaminants such as water accumulates in the oil, due to lack of sufficient heat to boil off the water. Oil of this nature, just sitting in an engine, can cause problems.[/i]


Yep, that's the key ...never park the vehicle for long periods unless it's been driven to full operating temperature for a pretty long duration so contaminates are all boiled off before shutting down.

I go two year oil & filter changes on my vehicles that don't get a lot of use.
 
Leave it.

Put high octane, non-ethanol gas in the tank with stabil and MMO (or your choice of cleaner), run it for a minute to cycle the stabilized gas through. Put a battery tender on it and cover her up.
 
How about this idea: If you worry about the old oil sitting in the crank case and want to save $, drain the old and save it for spring. Put new oil in there for storage. When spring comes, remove the storage oil and put the old oil back in. Save the storage for the next cycle.....
I wouldn't do this but just an idea. I change mine every year before winter regardless. I don't use synthetic and mixed and match whatever on sales and in my stash. My oil cost for the last 22 years for the Virago is $157.17 = $7.14 per year.
Top 4 maintenance costs:
Tires $521.61
Repair $280.10 - dropped 3 times
Battery $264.32
Oil Change $157.17

Oh, the Oil Change cost includes oil filter - Fram 6004 at $2.99 from Menards. They clearance them out last year but I still have 5 left.
 
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It is hard to say for sure if it is 100% safe to keep partially used oil with 1500 miles in engine for storage.
It would have been OK to use the same oil over two years while riding intermediately but not storage.
Some feel it is completely safe but there is a reason manufacturer recommend annually change. I am very particular about fluid change in all my vehicles.
Next year you would put 1000 miles or so on the bike. Is it worth to keep the oil in there for 1000 more miles. You only can answer that.
What bike is it?
 
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