When should use synthetic blend?

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When should one use synthetic blend? It appears some use conventional, some use synthetic. But what purpose does the mix of the two serve?

I mean, if you live in cold climates, what would the blend do for you? Part of the oil gets too thick, the other part would flow well?
 
Cold is relative, what temps are you talking?

It doesnt matter if your oil is conventional, semi syn or full synthetic if you change your oil on time. They serve no purpose as they all meet the same API.

If your live in an area where your winters drop below 10 degrees often, sure, without question a full syn will flow better.

You can buy a full syn 5 qt bottle in Walmart for under $20.
 
All of todays oils are blends of various base stocks. Define cold climates for us? Full syns depending on base stock blends are better at well below freezing than other full syn blends. Conventional oils the last few generations have been out standing . You just have to read all the marketing then decide what seems the best for you application. At well below freezing syns are a plus. Others from real cold winter will chime in.
 
Exactly! Make your own synblends. The initial cost will be higher (buying two five quart jugs instead of one), then it levels-out. I like 50-50 blends and what the typical synblend that's purchased in stores, usually only contains about 25-30% synthetic-only. It's not good buy for your wallet. for most are priced like they contain 50% synthetic and they do not.

If your conventional oil has synthetic inside, but doesn't say synblend on the front of the jug, then it likely only contains 15% synthetic or less. The laws for putting "synthetic blend' on labels is very lenient. It's really a joke that's not regulated well at all by our government. But it should be and we have a right to know wow much synthetic is in that synblend.

If your owner manual doesn't call for a specific grade or doesn't call for synthetic -only, then use whatever you want for California. Just stay in relative grade for what described in your manual.
 
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So what benefit is there for you to mix your own blend? Other than knowing it's 50/50? Is there an additive you particularly like in the conventional that does not come in the synthetic?
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Exactly! Make your own synblends. The initial cost will be higher (buying two five quart jugs instead of one), then it levels-out. I like 50-50 blends and what the typical synblend that's purchased in stores, usually only contains about 25-30% synthetic-only. It's not good buy for your wallet. for most are priced like they contain 50% synthetic and they do not.

If your conventional oil has synthetic inside, but doesn't say synblend on the front of the jug, then it likely only contains 15% synthetic or less. The laws for putting "synthetic blend' on labels is very lenient. It's really a joke that's not regulated well at all by our government. But it should be and we have a right to know wow much synthetic is in that synblend.

If your owner manual doesn't call for a specific grade or doesn't call for synthetic -only, then use whatever you want for California. Just stay in relative grade for what described in your manual.



Shouldn't you be more concerned about the add pack than what percentage of synthetic it is?
If your doing 50% blends, why not just go fs?
 
If you want the Dexos certification but don't want to pay the higher price of a full synthetic, then a syn blend will meet the objective at the lowest cost.
 
Originally Posted by BossMoss
When should one use synthetic blend? It appears some use conventional, some use synthetic. But what purpose does the mix of the two serve?

I mean, if you live in cold climates, what would the blend do for you? Part of the oil gets too thick, the other part would flow well?

Regardless of whether the oil is a synthetic blend or not it still meets the cold cranking specification (W rating) listed on the label.

Besides, how do you think the two components are different?
 
5Q jugs of M1 are around $25. Rebate is $12. Other major suppliers run similar specials. Why bother with conventional or syn blend which both cost more?
 
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Synthetic blends got popular in the early days of full synthetic, giving consumers the thought they were getting a better buy and more protection without paying the heft of full synthetic.

Most your conventional oils are considered to be a blend.. Chevron and shell call their 5w20,30 and 10w30 a blend. Now synthetic blends are advertised as a heavy duty oil for SUV and trucks "I guess if you're hauling and towing". As Valvoline says - DuraBlendâ„¢ has a unique blend of premium synthetic and conventional base oils with advanced additive technology designed for tough driving conditions.

Hard to pass up full synthetic these days with the rebates available and the fact many vehicles requiring 0w20 and only being available in synthetic.
 
When you don't want to use full synthetic or conventional. Also, a lot of manufacturer specs are leaving conventional out as a choice. For me, I sooner look for the deals on full synthetic than use a blend.
 
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I think its a mid range product or how they market it. I run group 3 in my Trailblazer as I can find SL oil for under 7$ a liter, I run longer change indexes without UOA and the poor thing gets lots of cold starts and it may or may not get plugged in. A few years back I had removed the VVT actuator solenoid to diagnose a problem and the thing looked pristine which tells me the inside of that engine is clean.

I run PC Duron 10w30 semi synthetic in my Ram 6.7. It is their lower end of the mid range product one could say but PC rates it as extended drain capable. Regardless of base oil it is stout and like I have said before, its cold flow is similar to full synthetic 5w40 but much less expensive. My UOA on this oil shows it is very stout.
 
In my opinion the synthetic blends are somewhat obsolete. Most conventional oils are blends now to meet the specs and with synthetics to be had for low prices, a marketed synthetic blend makes no sense.

Years ago the price structure made blends a good compromise at a better price. Today that price structure is gone.
 
Welcome to BITOG BossMoss! What does your owner's manual state? As stated above ^. Every vehicle, driver, location, weather conditions are different. You will get a variety of opinions here. *There are some great people with Chemistry/Tribology experience who post. I tend to listen to them. However; there are some others with life experience/mechanics who are also wise!

Decision decision!
 
Lessee, 32-15= 17F. 20w50 dino is getting close, but will work. 10wXX is fine. These days any oil sold at Wal Mart etc is acceptable. Dino, semi, or full synth, it is all good
 
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