Oil suggestion, towing and consumption.

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Silver

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Jul 30, 2003
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Location
GA
4.2L Chevy Trailblazer I6.
148,000 miles.
Manual says 5w30.

I ran PP 5w30 in this truck until I noticed it started using 1-2 quarts between 10k oci's. I then went to PP high mileage 5w30. I've already used 3 quarts at 7000 into oci. I drive aggressively with frequent high rpm's and tow around 5500 lbs 15 miles 2 or 3 times per month. No leaks at all.

I wonder with the towing of about 5500 lbs and consumption if I should use a thicker oil?

May not be relevant but my timing chain tensioner just failed in some manner after a couple WOT bursts. I'm having it replaced and the truck won't see quite as much high rpm driving!


Thanks
Mike
 
Considering your location(GA) I would say yes, use a heavier oil like 10w30 or xw40. I am sure someone will be along to say a 0w20 will be better.
 
Originally Posted By: Silver
4.2L Chevy Trailblazer I6.
148,000 miles.
Manual says 5w30.

I ran PP 5w30 in this truck until I noticed it started using 1-2 quarts between 10k oci's. I then went to PP high mileage 5w30. I've already used 3 quarts at 7000 into oci. I drive aggressively with frequent high rpm's and tow around 5500 lbs 15 miles 2 or 3 times per month. No leaks at all.

I wonder with the towing of about 5500 lbs and consumption if I should use a thicker oil?

May not be relevant but my timing chain tensioner just failed in some manner after a couple WOT bursts. I'm having it replaced and the truck won't see quite as much high rpm driving!


Thanks
Mike


Personally I would have chose a Toyota. It just might be that the vehicle is near the end, sorry to say. You may want to try their Ultra oil. Or an oil loss additive. Not to bash any car makers, but it's hard for me to stray from the Japanese brands precisely bc of problems like this. Not to say Toyota and Hondas never have problems.

At this point, you need a judgement call on how much you want spend on a car with 150k miles. Can you live with adding oil, or do you want something new, or a motor replacement etc.
 
Try 10W-30 or maybe even 0W-40 wouldn't hurt. Pennzoil Ultra or M1 European formula are great choices, same with German Castrol.
 
1-2 quarts in 10k for an engine of that age used in severe service is not bad at all. 4 quarts in 10k (based on what it's using so far) is getting high. M1 high mileage 10w-30 is on the thick end of that viscosity range and has higher HTHS than most 10w-30 oils, so would be a good choice for towing in hotter climates. An Xw-40 would also be a good option.

Does the vehicle have an oil cooler? High RPM and high load in warm temps can roast oil pretty fast. Ever notice the oil pressure warning light flicker or pressure gauge drop down below 10 psi at idle after a hard towing run?

Timing chain tensioner was probably a fluke unless they are known to fail at high RPM when old.
 
Originally Posted By: KnicksGiants
Not to say Toyota and Hondas never have problems.


Heh, most definitely as Honda and Toyota both had class actions filed against them for consumption.
 
Doubt the tensioner is anything but a fluke, not related to rpm.

IMO, if you're driving it hard, just live with the consumption. Maybe change to a 5k OCI and run something you don't mind burning a bit of.
 
Originally Posted By: Silver
Originally Posted By: KnicksGiants
Not to say Toyota and Hondas never have problems.


Heh, most definitely as Honda and Toyota both had class actions filed against them for consumption.


And rust, and sludge.
 
Originally Posted By: VeryNoisyPoet
1-2 quarts in 10k for an engine of that age used in severe service is not bad at all. 4 quarts in 10k (based on what it's using so far) is getting high. M1 high mileage 10w-30 is on the thick end of that viscosity range and has higher HTHS than most 10w-30 oils, so would be a good choice for towing in hotter climates. An Xw-40 would also be a good option.

Does the vehicle have an oil cooler? High RPM and high load in warm temps can roast oil pretty fast. Ever notice the oil pressure warning light flicker or pressure gauge drop down below 10 psi at idle after a hard towing run?

Timing chain tensioner was probably a fluke unless they are known to fail at high RPM when old.


No oil cooler. Never noticed the oil guage drop but that doesn't mean it doesn't. I'll watch it next time. Honestly the tow trip is short so it may not get all that hot. I'll look at the viscosities of high mileage oils and try a 10w30. If I recall correctly, the new Castrol Titanium oils are pretty thick too.

Would I have to worry about a thicker oil not flowing well enough at high rpm's when I drive "irresponsibly"?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: FermeLaPorte
Unless it was a diesel, I wouldn't put that many miles on an OCI while towing. The most 3,500 OCI's.


Thanks. I really didn't think much of it as it's a short trip once a week, but perhaps it is worth adjusting for.
 
Originally Posted By: Silver
No oil cooler. Never noticed the oil guage drop but that doesn't mean it doesn't. I'll watch it next time. Honestly the tow trip is short so it may not get all that hot.


Under high load (mountain grade with full load) the oil in my car rises from 200F to 250F in just a couple minutes, though oil cooler stabilizes it around there. It can rise faster than you think.

Also, it it an actual pressure gauge, or an idiot gauge that just reads in the middle using the pressure switch?

Quote:
Would I have to worry about a thicker oil not flowing well enough at high rpm's when I drive "irresponsibly"?


The difference between a 30 wt and 40 wt at operating temp is tiny compared to the difference between cold oil and hot oil. Or even warm oil and hot oil. You want the oil film to be robust enough at high RPM and load to protect cylinder walls and bearings.
 
Replace the PCV valve with an OEM part. You may have a weak spring that’s allowing oil mist through.
You can try adding a can of BG EPR to see if you have some stuck oil control rings.
Try M1 HM 10w-30 as suggested above, and if consumption does not slow I would switch to whatever 10w-30 happens to be on sale at Walmart. No point in using the expensive stuff if it’s just being burnt and replaced with fresh.
 
Originally Posted By: VeryNoisyPoet


Also, it it an actual pressure gauge, or an idiot gauge that just reads in the middle using the pressure switch?


OEM gauge with numbers. Hovers from the middle '40' to 3/4 over to the right which I think is at '50'.
 
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Replace the PCV valve with an OEM part.


Ok you're not going to believe me so please do some searching, but there's no pcv valve. I don't know how it works, but there's no valve as most people define it.
 
Originally Posted By: Silver
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Replace the PCV valve with an OEM part.


Ok you're not going to believe me so please do some searching, but there's no pcv valve. I don't know how it works, but there's no valve as most people define it.


Yeah some engines are designed that way. Usually some form of an orifice tube.
 
Originally Posted By: Silver
Originally Posted By: VeryNoisyPoet


Also, it it an actual pressure gauge, or an idiot gauge that just reads in the middle using the pressure switch?


OEM gauge with numbers. Hovers from the middle '40' to 3/4 over to the right which I think is at '50'.


Does it read high when cold and low when hot? Does it rise with RPM? If it always goes to same place regardless of temp or RPM, then it is just for show and is essentially an idiot light in gauge form. Oil pressure can be over 80 psi at cold idle but fall below 20 psi at hot idle, rising quickly when engine is revved up.
 
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