Fluid Film Rustproofing Video
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Thanks, excellent video. I watch Sweet Project Cars(SPC) now & again.
South Main Auto(SMA) ERIC O, had his Toyota Tundra done professionally(KROWN) and has a video on this as well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKmM5IByVCQ
South Main Auto(SMA) ERIC O, had his Toyota Tundra done professionally(KROWN) and has a video on this as well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKmM5IByVCQ
Any test results on how well this stuff holds up over time?
No test results that I am aware of, only customer satisfaction over the long haul, Meaning 10-15 yrs in the salt belt. However, regular annual resprays are required for longevity and warranty. In my area, professional KROWN spray is ~ $120-$150 per vehicle/per year. Not the over $600 one time(periodic/occasional touch ups where/when needed) with BLACK undercoating that doesn't last before peeling away and causing salt to enter behind the coating.
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Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
Any test results on how well this stuff holds up over time?
Here is a 5 month update from Eric at South Main Auto:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9YDe02cW5Q
Any test results on how well this stuff holds up over time?
Here is a 5 month update from Eric at South Main Auto:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9YDe02cW5Q
Our family has been treating their vehicles annually with Krown since the 1980's. Our 1986 Dodge Caravan was 22 years old with almost 1/2 a million kilometers on it when we scrapped it with 0 rust (mechanical problems not worth fixing). We are in the rust belt here in Ontario with plenty of humidity in the summer and salt in the winter. Krown was started here in Ontario and there is a reason they are #1 in Canada for Rust Proofing as they claim.
It does a wonderful job creeping into areas you can't see like folded seams etc. I would use Fluid Film as a secondary option if Krown isn't available. Just FWIW.
It does a wonderful job creeping into areas you can't see like folded seams etc. I would use Fluid Film as a secondary option if Krown isn't available. Just FWIW.
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Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
Any test results on how well this stuff holds up over time?
My results over approx 1.5 years..... Used 4 spray cans just before winter on the Escalade. Sprayed the frame, brake lines, almost everything underneath. Looked great for a couple of months. Then the soot and sand started piling up. It got so bad I hated working underneath. Huge mess just trying to change the oil. Then I had the jack slip on the frame that had me scared to go under the truck for a while. 10 months later it was and still chipping off exposing rust underneath. I now use Corroseal. Touching up rust spots wherever the frame wax or old FF comes off. No oil, no waxes, a nice shiny converted finish. A pleasure to work under the truck again, without fear of the truck slipping off the jack.
Yes, I have before during and after pics at home.
Any test results on how well this stuff holds up over time?
My results over approx 1.5 years..... Used 4 spray cans just before winter on the Escalade. Sprayed the frame, brake lines, almost everything underneath. Looked great for a couple of months. Then the soot and sand started piling up. It got so bad I hated working underneath. Huge mess just trying to change the oil. Then I had the jack slip on the frame that had me scared to go under the truck for a while. 10 months later it was and still chipping off exposing rust underneath. I now use Corroseal. Touching up rust spots wherever the frame wax or old FF comes off. No oil, no waxes, a nice shiny converted finish. A pleasure to work under the truck again, without fear of the truck slipping off the jack.
Yes, I have before during and after pics at home.
I have never used FF as an undercoating product except maybe in a few spots here and there when I was under my truck/car spraying some dry spots. (I normally have some spray cans of Rust Check or Krown on hand)
Luckily for me, Krown and Rust Check shops are readily available where I live and I usually have my vehicles rust sprayed annually or semi annually depending on how harsh the winter was before?
Regardless, and like I said in another thread, when it is mild out in the winter and you have the means, spray underneath gently or semi gently with your garden hose getting up under the fenders, bumpers, undercarriage, etc, to spray the dirt/sand and salt out.
In the spring I do this every year really thoroughly making sure I spray inside bumpers, rear and front diffs, under the lower lips of the fenders, etc, basically going everywhere, until the dirt/sand is no longer visible and the water starts to run out clean again.
You'll be amazed the amount or dirt/sand and salt that runs out of these areas.
If I didn't have those shops so readily handy, then I would most likely also use FF or something similar to do it myself.
Anything is better than doing nothing at all.
Luckily for me, Krown and Rust Check shops are readily available where I live and I usually have my vehicles rust sprayed annually or semi annually depending on how harsh the winter was before?
Regardless, and like I said in another thread, when it is mild out in the winter and you have the means, spray underneath gently or semi gently with your garden hose getting up under the fenders, bumpers, undercarriage, etc, to spray the dirt/sand and salt out.
In the spring I do this every year really thoroughly making sure I spray inside bumpers, rear and front diffs, under the lower lips of the fenders, etc, basically going everywhere, until the dirt/sand is no longer visible and the water starts to run out clean again.
You'll be amazed the amount or dirt/sand and salt that runs out of these areas.
If I didn't have those shops so readily handy, then I would most likely also use FF or something similar to do it myself.
Anything is better than doing nothing at all.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I now use Corroseal. Touching up rust spots wherever the frame wax or old FF comes off. No oil, no waxes, a nice shiny converted finish. A pleasure to work under the truck again, without fear of the truck slipping off the jack.
Did you have to paint over the Corroseal with regular paint after the rust converter dries, or is the Corroseal by itself good enough? Thanks for the tip I just ordered a gallon of it.
I now use Corroseal. Touching up rust spots wherever the frame wax or old FF comes off. No oil, no waxes, a nice shiny converted finish. A pleasure to work under the truck again, without fear of the truck slipping off the jack.
Did you have to paint over the Corroseal with regular paint after the rust converter dries, or is the Corroseal by itself good enough? Thanks for the tip I just ordered a gallon of it.
Thankfully , I do not live up north in the salt belt , although the city dose use some salt . they also use sand .
Best wishes from West Texas ,
Best wishes from West Texas ,
Originally Posted By: wdn
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I now use Corroseal. Touching up rust spots wherever the frame wax or old FF comes off. No oil, no waxes, a nice shiny converted finish. A pleasure to work under the truck again, without fear of the truck slipping off the jack.
Did you have to paint over the Corroseal with regular paint after the rust converter dries, or is the Corroseal by itself good enough? Thanks for the tip I just ordered a gallon of it.
No, you don't have to. I didn't. I used less than a quart to touch up my truck and DD so far, so a Gallon will go a long way. Can use it anywhere there is rust. I rolled the bulkhead with it then painted over it. Also painted a few rust spots on my above ground pool.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I now use Corroseal. Touching up rust spots wherever the frame wax or old FF comes off. No oil, no waxes, a nice shiny converted finish. A pleasure to work under the truck again, without fear of the truck slipping off the jack.
Did you have to paint over the Corroseal with regular paint after the rust converter dries, or is the Corroseal by itself good enough? Thanks for the tip I just ordered a gallon of it.
No, you don't have to. I didn't. I used less than a quart to touch up my truck and DD so far, so a Gallon will go a long way. Can use it anywhere there is rust. I rolled the bulkhead with it then painted over it. Also painted a few rust spots on my above ground pool.
Sorry, I'm sure someone is more competent to give tips if really needed. Anyone who does not cover the brake rotor with a plastic bag or something when spraying oil that etches into metal right near it is a fool. That rotor, along with the other 3, after being fogged with oil by accident, overspray, and maybe a heavy drip or two on the back not seen, will lead to disaster. Brake pads don't do well trying to stop with oil present.
Step 1. Cover all rotors/brake pads when spraying oil near them.
Step 1. Cover all rotors/brake pads when spraying oil near them.
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Have used Fluid Film for years inside doors/fenders/wheel wells/rocket panels last for years. Under vehicle brake lines only. Inside frame i use rusfre. Using FF on my jeep brake lines in Vermont salt are original.
Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
Sorry, I'm sure someone is more competent to give tips if really needed. Anyone who does not cover the brake rotor with a plastic bag or something when spraying oil that etches into metal right near it is a fool. That rotor, along with the other 3, after being fogged with oil by accident, overspray, and maybe a heavy drip or two on the back not seen, will lead to disaster. Brake pads don't do well trying to stop with oil present.
Step 1. Cover all rotors/brake pads when spraying oil near them.
While I agree in theory, in practice it doesn't make that much overspray, especially if not using the wand. Plus FF doesn't etch metal.
Sorry, I'm sure someone is more competent to give tips if really needed. Anyone who does not cover the brake rotor with a plastic bag or something when spraying oil that etches into metal right near it is a fool. That rotor, along with the other 3, after being fogged with oil by accident, overspray, and maybe a heavy drip or two on the back not seen, will lead to disaster. Brake pads don't do well trying to stop with oil present.
Step 1. Cover all rotors/brake pads when spraying oil near them.
While I agree in theory, in practice it doesn't make that much overspray, especially if not using the wand. Plus FF doesn't etch metal.
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
Sorry, I'm sure someone is more competent to give tips if really needed. Anyone who does not cover the brake rotor with a plastic bag or something when spraying oil that etches into metal right near it is a fool. That rotor, along with the other 3, after being fogged with oil by accident, overspray, and maybe a heavy drip or two on the back not seen, will lead to disaster. Brake pads don't do well trying to stop with oil present.
Step 1. Cover all rotors/brake pads when spraying oil near them.
While I agree in theory, in practice it doesn't make that much overspray, especially if not using the wand. Plus FF doesn't etch metal.
Same here, my 06 Mazda has been sprayed by Krown for years, then I started doing it myself and the brakes were never covered and I have never experienced and problems. I'm still on the original calipers, knock on wood.
Originally Posted By: 93cruiser
Sorry, I'm sure someone is more competent to give tips if really needed. Anyone who does not cover the brake rotor with a plastic bag or something when spraying oil that etches into metal right near it is a fool. That rotor, along with the other 3, after being fogged with oil by accident, overspray, and maybe a heavy drip or two on the back not seen, will lead to disaster. Brake pads don't do well trying to stop with oil present.
Step 1. Cover all rotors/brake pads when spraying oil near them.
While I agree in theory, in practice it doesn't make that much overspray, especially if not using the wand. Plus FF doesn't etch metal.
Same here, my 06 Mazda has been sprayed by Krown for years, then I started doing it myself and the brakes were never covered and I have never experienced and problems. I'm still on the original calipers, knock on wood.
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Originally Posted By: littleant
Have used Fluid Film for years inside doors/fenders/wheel wells/rocket panels last for years. Under vehicle brake lines only. Inside frame i use rusfre. Using FF on my jeep brake lines in Vermont salt are original.
Seems like I have read FF is lanolin ?
Have used Fluid Film for years inside doors/fenders/wheel wells/rocket panels last for years. Under vehicle brake lines only. Inside frame i use rusfre. Using FF on my jeep brake lines in Vermont salt are original.
Seems like I have read FF is lanolin ?
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I now use Corroseal. Touching up rust spots wherever the frame wax or old FF comes off. No oil, no waxes, a nice shiny converted finish. A pleasure to work under the truck again, without fear of the truck slipping off the jack.
Thanks for the tip LeakySeals I bought the gallon of CorroSeal and yesterday spent 5-1/2 hours under my Gen 1 Tundra chipping rust and painting the undercarriage but not near the brakes. I used a wire brush attachment on an angle grinder some of it but it was less useful than I predicted due to its size and aggressiveness, and most of the time had to revert to a hand-held wire brush and a damp rag to clean off the loosened rust. I used a 2" foam brush to paint on the Corroseal and yes I stayed away from the brakes. It was all applied by hand. I did not go anywhere near the brakes so if the calipers rust, they rust. Inside the rear bumper really took a lot of the stuff and I am glad I did it that model has a chrome rear bumper that still looks good. The only thing left is, last oil change I removed and repainted the skid plate, so next oil change I will remove it and rustproof all the chassis that is under the skid plate. I do have to say, the Corroseal finish really looks excellent.
It cost me $65 a gallon for the Corroseal, plus a foam brush and an old shirt got ruined. I used more than a quart from the gallon jug of Corroseal. It probably goes on thicker with a brush and I laid it on good since this is not a job I want to tackle again soon. Wish I had known about the product sooner there is not visible red rust anywhere, it is smooth and black now. It is still curing so glad we are not having rain in the forecast today.
I now use Corroseal. Touching up rust spots wherever the frame wax or old FF comes off. No oil, no waxes, a nice shiny converted finish. A pleasure to work under the truck again, without fear of the truck slipping off the jack.
Thanks for the tip LeakySeals I bought the gallon of CorroSeal and yesterday spent 5-1/2 hours under my Gen 1 Tundra chipping rust and painting the undercarriage but not near the brakes. I used a wire brush attachment on an angle grinder some of it but it was less useful than I predicted due to its size and aggressiveness, and most of the time had to revert to a hand-held wire brush and a damp rag to clean off the loosened rust. I used a 2" foam brush to paint on the Corroseal and yes I stayed away from the brakes. It was all applied by hand. I did not go anywhere near the brakes so if the calipers rust, they rust. Inside the rear bumper really took a lot of the stuff and I am glad I did it that model has a chrome rear bumper that still looks good. The only thing left is, last oil change I removed and repainted the skid plate, so next oil change I will remove it and rustproof all the chassis that is under the skid plate. I do have to say, the Corroseal finish really looks excellent.
It cost me $65 a gallon for the Corroseal, plus a foam brush and an old shirt got ruined. I used more than a quart from the gallon jug of Corroseal. It probably goes on thicker with a brush and I laid it on good since this is not a job I want to tackle again soon. Wish I had known about the product sooner there is not visible red rust anywhere, it is smooth and black now. It is still curing so glad we are not having rain in the forecast today.
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