2016 Chevy Colorado - 6202 mi interval - RP 5w30
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Switch to a Dex1Gen2 oil. One of the things it is formulated for is to prevent timing chain wear. The LFX 3.6 engine is notorious for timing chain problems. Any name brand full syn D1G2 should be fine. The VOA's on these oils will show lower calcium levels, more boron, moly or titanium (Castrol Edge) than the Royal Purple you were using.
Most will want more info on what the truck was primarily used for. IE: towing, hauling, etc, before drawing too many conclusions but I think most will also say, despite those possibilities, your iron is way too high.
I know nothing about RP but it looks like, as a starting point, that something more suited, (like JHS said above) for your vehicle is in order.
I know nothing about RP but it looks like, as a starting point, that something more suited, (like JHS said above) for your vehicle is in order.
Switch to a 0W40 or a 10W30 HDEO and watch the iron PPM drop.
Originally Posted By: irv
Most will want more info on what the truck was primarily used for. IE: towing, hauling, etc, before drawing too many conclusions but I think most will also say, despite those possibilities, your iron is way too high.
I know nothing about RP but it looks like, as a starting point, that something more suited, (like JHS said above) for your vehicle is in order.
The truck is used 100% city driving as my z06 needs a motor.
Most will want more info on what the truck was primarily used for. IE: towing, hauling, etc, before drawing too many conclusions but I think most will also say, despite those possibilities, your iron is way too high.
I know nothing about RP but it looks like, as a starting point, that something more suited, (like JHS said above) for your vehicle is in order.
The truck is used 100% city driving as my z06 needs a motor.
Originally Posted By: jhs914
Switch to a Dex1Gen2 oil. One of the things it is formulated for is to prevent timing chain wear. The LFX 3.6 engine is notorious for timing chain problems. Any name brand full syn D1G2 should be fine. The VOA's on these oils will show lower calcium levels, more boron, moly or titanium (Castrol Edge) than the Royal Purple you were using.
Very good to know, thank you !
Switch to a Dex1Gen2 oil. One of the things it is formulated for is to prevent timing chain wear. The LFX 3.6 engine is notorious for timing chain problems. Any name brand full syn D1G2 should be fine. The VOA's on these oils will show lower calcium levels, more boron, moly or titanium (Castrol Edge) than the Royal Purple you were using.
Very good to know, thank you !
How long in minutes is the typical trip length?
Originally Posted By: JAG
How long in minutes is the typical trip length?
Min of 15 minutes, usually 1 hour with a stop at the store in the middle.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Let’s see if the PUP reverse the trend on the iron.
I hope so!
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Switch to a 0W40 or a 10W30 HDEO and watch the iron PPM drop.
What are some examples of HDEO oil that would be in the 10W20 weight? I never used HDEO before. For 0w40 I am thinking Castrol.
How long in minutes is the typical trip length?
Min of 15 minutes, usually 1 hour with a stop at the store in the middle.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Let’s see if the PUP reverse the trend on the iron.
I hope so!
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Switch to a 0W40 or a 10W30 HDEO and watch the iron PPM drop.
What are some examples of HDEO oil that would be in the 10W20 weight? I never used HDEO before. For 0w40 I am thinking Castrol.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Let’s see if the PUP reverse the trend on the iron.
Will one OC be enough to get a representative result? I am only asking as I honestly don't know?
I am thinking, and I could be wrong, depending on how long the old oil was allowed to drain, could there still not be residual metals or other ingredients from the old oil still in there?
I was going to suggest a shorter OCI with Pennzoil Yellow Bottle (conventional) first then try either the PUP or PP.
Thoughts?
Let’s see if the PUP reverse the trend on the iron.
Will one OC be enough to get a representative result? I am only asking as I honestly don't know?
I am thinking, and I could be wrong, depending on how long the old oil was allowed to drain, could there still not be residual metals or other ingredients from the old oil still in there?
I was going to suggest a shorter OCI with Pennzoil Yellow Bottle (conventional) first then try either the PUP or PP.
Thoughts?
Originally Posted By: irv
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Let’s see if the PUP reverse the trend on the iron.
Will one OC be enough to get a representative result? I am only asking as I honestly don't know?
I am thinking, and I could be wrong, depending on how long the old oil was allowed to drain, could there still not be residual metals or other ingredients from the old oil still in there?
I was going to suggest a shorter OCI with Pennzoil Yellow Bottle (conventional) first then try either the PUP or PP.
Thoughts?
In a scientific manner one analysis would not be a true indicator of breaking a trend. It does have to start from some point though.
I wonder if this info should be brought up to the dealer? That way there would be a record on file with GM.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Let’s see if the PUP reverse the trend on the iron.
Will one OC be enough to get a representative result? I am only asking as I honestly don't know?
I am thinking, and I could be wrong, depending on how long the old oil was allowed to drain, could there still not be residual metals or other ingredients from the old oil still in there?
I was going to suggest a shorter OCI with Pennzoil Yellow Bottle (conventional) first then try either the PUP or PP.
Thoughts?
In a scientific manner one analysis would not be a true indicator of breaking a trend. It does have to start from some point though.
I wonder if this info should be brought up to the dealer? That way there would be a record on file with GM.
Originally Posted By: c5z06
Switched to PUP 5w30 and Napa Platinum filter. At what point does the iron become a problem?
Oil and filter choice is fine for your application. I don't think that engine is known for LSPI that dexos1 Gen2 targets, and PUP is well engineered for anti-wear. ... I think iron wear is a problem if your wear is over twice the Universal Average, which yours is. There is something not right inside the engine. Timing chain is a good guess, but it could be anything.
Switched to PUP 5w30 and Napa Platinum filter. At what point does the iron become a problem?
Oil and filter choice is fine for your application. I don't think that engine is known for LSPI that dexos1 Gen2 targets, and PUP is well engineered for anti-wear. ... I think iron wear is a problem if your wear is over twice the Universal Average, which yours is. There is something not right inside the engine. Timing chain is a good guess, but it could be anything.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Running a quick search reveals that this particular engine has issues with the timing chains.
That was years ago. GM has cracked down on the supplier for this giant floppy set of chains whirring around in there, getting them to carefully surface harden the chains. In the past, like around 2008-2012 or so, they were shipping some bad chains. I don't see how its possible GM has not finally kept their powertrain warranty costs down by making sure the supplier made good chains consistently after many years have gone by.
Running a quick search reveals that this particular engine has issues with the timing chains.
That was years ago. GM has cracked down on the supplier for this giant floppy set of chains whirring around in there, getting them to carefully surface harden the chains. In the past, like around 2008-2012 or so, they were shipping some bad chains. I don't see how its possible GM has not finally kept their powertrain warranty costs down by making sure the supplier made good chains consistently after many years have gone by.
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Running a quick search reveals that this particular engine has issues with the timing chains.
That was years ago. GM has cracked down on the supplier for this giant floppy set of chains whirring around in there, getting them to carefully surface harden the chains. In the past, like around 2008-2012 or so, they were shipping some bad chains. I don't see how its possible GM has not finally kept their powertrain warranty costs down by making sure the supplier made good chains consistently after many years have gone by.
Thanks for that info. I do think a trip to the dealer is prudent here to get his situation on record. Something is not right. Perhaps there is a TSB or similar bulletin out.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Running a quick search reveals that this particular engine has issues with the timing chains.
That was years ago. GM has cracked down on the supplier for this giant floppy set of chains whirring around in there, getting them to carefully surface harden the chains. In the past, like around 2008-2012 or so, they were shipping some bad chains. I don't see how its possible GM has not finally kept their powertrain warranty costs down by making sure the supplier made good chains consistently after many years have gone by.
Thanks for that info. I do think a trip to the dealer is prudent here to get his situation on record. Something is not right. Perhaps there is a TSB or similar bulletin out.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Running a quick search reveals that this particular engine has issues with the timing chains.
Shhh the great D1G2 fixed that.
Running a quick search reveals that this particular engine has issues with the timing chains.
Shhh the great D1G2 fixed that.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Originally Posted By: irv
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Let’s see if the PUP reverse the trend on the iron.
Will one OC be enough to get a representative result? I am only asking as I honestly don't know?
I am thinking, and I could be wrong, depending on how long the old oil was allowed to drain, could there still not be residual metals or other ingredients from the old oil still in there?
I was going to suggest a shorter OCI with Pennzoil Yellow Bottle (conventional) first then try either the PUP or PP.
Thoughts?
In a scientific manner one analysis would not be a true indicator of breaking a trend. It does have to start from some point though.
I wonder if this info should be brought up to the dealer? That way there would be a record on file with GM.
Thanks for letting me know, Pimtac.
I also think this is a good idea to run it by the dealer, but make sure the RP was acceptable to use beforehand.
Originally Posted By: irv
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Let’s see if the PUP reverse the trend on the iron.
Will one OC be enough to get a representative result? I am only asking as I honestly don't know?
I am thinking, and I could be wrong, depending on how long the old oil was allowed to drain, could there still not be residual metals or other ingredients from the old oil still in there?
I was going to suggest a shorter OCI with Pennzoil Yellow Bottle (conventional) first then try either the PUP or PP.
Thoughts?
In a scientific manner one analysis would not be a true indicator of breaking a trend. It does have to start from some point though.
I wonder if this info should be brought up to the dealer? That way there would be a record on file with GM.
Thanks for letting me know, Pimtac.
I also think this is a good idea to run it by the dealer, but make sure the RP was acceptable to use beforehand.
Originally Posted By: JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Running a quick search reveals that this particular engine has issues with the timing chains.
Shhh the great D1G2 fixed that.
Just my opinion here but today’s timing chains look more like bicycle chains. I remember when timing chains were much wider. I’m sure improved alloys allow the manufacturers to make the chains smaller.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Running a quick search reveals that this particular engine has issues with the timing chains.
Shhh the great D1G2 fixed that.
Just my opinion here but today’s timing chains look more like bicycle chains. I remember when timing chains were much wider. I’m sure improved alloys allow the manufacturers to make the chains smaller.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
The fact that iron appears to be trending UP as the engine breaks in, rather than down, is not confidence inspiring. Do you see metal flecks in your filters? Was this oil always used or have you used different oils in the past?
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Both of my 14-15 year-old GMs have magnetic oil pan bolts. That's another possible place to check for metals.
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