Idemitsu ATF TLS-LV vs. Toyota WS ATF for a Lexus GS350

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Gonna service the 2013 GS350 F Sport transmission.
Just turned 60K miles.

What would you use?
I use a lotta Valvoline Max-Life, some Honda stuff and some Idemitsu.
I've heard the Toyota WS stuff is just OK.
I am considering the Idemitsu swill.

Thanks for your thoughts.
Extra credit for real-world use.
 
Toyota WS was good enough to go 142,000 miles on a 2006 Lexus IS350. Had the Lexus dealership in Charlotte, NC to use their machine to put some fresh WS in it, and the transmission is still doing fine at 154,000.
 
Maxlife will be fine
smile.gif
 
As I mentioned in the thread next to this WS factory fill was good in my son's Toyota 4R for over 440k miles. I hear that spiritus Dei ferebatur super aquas.. You hear some voices over WS, the world keeps going.
 
I myself hate WS, horrible ATF if you have a Toyota without an external cooler like a RAV4 and you put any rough service on it. It is a semi synthetic. You are lucky from what I have seen, all Lexus have external coolers so that is the saving grace. Any newer car I would suggest Redline or Amsoil. Here since it is a high mileage and older car my first choice would be MaxLife since it is a ok ATF and it is cheap. A great choice for your application.

Just as Toyota/Lexus goes cheap on sub frame paint, anti- corrosion on all their nuts and bolts, and all their metalurgy except their outer painted panels that they are nice enough or we are lucky enough would be a better discriptive word to have low iron. Everything else has high iron content that has excelerated rust/oxidation. They also bring this cheapness into their crap WS ATF. Thank God they build great reliable motors.

Ask any any Toyota/ Lexus mechanic, who has to use a torch on a 3 year old car to get undercartarge bolts lose and 5 year old cars that you need to use the cutting torch to get rusted bolts off because the threads are so degraded. At least here In Minnesota. Honda’s, Audii/VW’s not An issue. Both quality metalurgy and high use of quality anti-corrosion coatingsand minimal rust.
 
Originally Posted By: Mainia
I myself hate WS, horrible ATF if you have a Toyota without an external cooler like a RAV4 and you put any rough service on it. It is a semi synthetic. You are lucky from what I have seen, all Lexus have external coolers so that is the saving grace. Any newer car I would suggest Redline or Amsoil. Here since it is a high mileage and older car my first choice would be MaxLife since it is a ok ATF and it is cheap. A great choice for your application.

Just as Toyota/Lexus goes cheap on sub frame paint, anti- corrosion on all their nuts and bolts, and all their metalurgy except their outer painted panels that they are nice enough or we are lucky enough would be a better discriptive word to have low iron. Everything else has high iron content that has excelerated rust/oxidation. They also bring this cheapness into their crap WS ATF. Thank God they build great reliable motors.

Ask any any Toyota/ Lexus mechanic, who has to use a torch on a 3 year old car to get undercartarge bolts lose and 5 year old cars that you need to use the cutting torch to get rusted bolts off because the threads are so degraded. At least here In Minnesota. Honda’s, Audii/VW’s not An issue. Both quality metalurgy and high use of quality anti-corrosion coatingsand minimal rust.


Nissan and Mazda are much worse for rust than Toyota!

The Mazda3 in this image was only about 3 years old at the time. I think this particular example was in Canada:
mazda3-55881bc1a1199.jpg



Krown may help a bit
smile.gif


49079a5b742d9d6f2d2b3c2ac3ed0da6.jpg
 
THe picture of the mazda doesn't say the right story.
If one had scratched the paint off in salt country and didn't repaint it - that would be how a 3 yr old vehicle would rust from inside out.
THhe car doesn't even have the wheel caps - wonder how it was cared for.
There are a lot of idioots who abuse their vehicles and have seen 15-20yr salt country cars and they were just fine.
 
Having said that WS is a crappy fluid because we have a lot of craaap on this forum.
Folks from all walks of life chime in their mindless nonsense based on hersay.
T-IV and WS are good fluids designed by thousands of mechanical and fluid engineers, RL/Amsoil cannot reenginer their knowledge to create a wonder soup.

You are on your own if you screw around in fluid & coolant & plugs.
 
Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Having said that WS is a crappy fluid because we have a lot of craaap on this forum.
Folks from all walks of life chime in their mindless nonsense based on hersay.
T-IV and WS are good fluids designed by thousands of mechanical and fluid engineers, RL/Amsoil cannot reenginer their knowledge to create a wonder soup.

You are on your own if you screw around in fluid & coolant & plugs.


Post of the day.
 
Originally Posted By: Starman2112
Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Having said that WS is a crappy fluid because we have a lot of craaap on this forum.
Folks from all walks of life chime in their mindless nonsense based on hersay.
T-IV and WS are good fluids designed by thousands of mechanical and fluid engineers, RL/Amsoil cannot reenginer their knowledge to create a wonder soup.

You are on your own if you screw around in fluid & coolant & plugs.


Post of the day.


01.gif
 
Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Having said that WS is a crappy fluid because we have a lot of craaap on this forum.
Folks from all walks of life chime in their mindless nonsense based on hersay.
T-IV and WS are good fluids designed by thousands of mechanical and fluid engineers, RL/Amsoil cannot reenginer their knowledge to create a wonder soup.

You are on your own if you screw around in fluid & coolant & plugs.


WS is a crappy ATF, cheap sub-standard base stocks. It is a semi-synthetic. Group 2 and 3's have no place as a main base oil in an ATF fluid unless Grandma is driving it. Non turbo car engine oil is fine too if you don't want to start your car in 25-30 below weather here in Minnesota, where group 3's pour like thick honey in the cold winter mornings.

Also I don't go for the "by the manual" and "you think you are a better engineer then Toyota's" Dogma on auto forums. You get guys who think they are car mechanics and they post 3,000 posts and you find out they have never picked up a wrench in their life. And Amsoil and Redline is so far superior then WS clearly just by what basestocks they use, plus they have an aggressive add-pack, because they can. Toyota's WS ATF oil has all and more profit taken out of it and it's cheaper price, then Amsoil or Redline get on their oils. So you can't help but get a cheap oil. I found that out with our Rav 4 that was a lease return from a woman in Upstate New York. No soccer mom hauling, no hitch and in show room condition rear half like nothing was used or put in there since new. I drained the crap WS and it was burn't big time at 21,400 miles. I have done many Audi ATF flushes and this is right up there with some of my high mileage drain I did, But at 21,000 I was astonished how beat up this oil was. I got sick it smelled so bad, a clear sign it was cooked. So the women must of been a 2,000 lbs women to beat the crap out of this crap WS? I of course added an external ATF cooler and gee, spent an extra $70 more putting in Redline vs the crap WS. Gee, just a deal breaker there when the Rav4 is a $28,000 crossover. That is two tankfuls of gas, a deal breaker for quality ATF. An ATF that can actually take some heat without degrading.

Just because an OEM uses an oil doesn't mean SQUAT. Example: our group of Atlas Copco rotary screw air compressors that I have under my belt at work. We were burning up the OEM PAO ($550 for 5 gallons = $30 a Qt) in the first 800 hours of the 8,000 hour spec for the PAO. It was a "varnish creating machine" OEM said run the crap out of it, they thought I was nuts. Oil analysis said we had an major varnishing issue, MPC test showed a problem. Again your nuts, our engineers tested this oil, ((ME->"here we go")) "SO you think you know more then our engineers who spent hours testing our (ME->[censored]) oil?" I said "apparently I do know more "Or I then re worded it. I am ALLOWED to say their findings, where they can't" SO this OEM has their machines and my best interest in line. Nope. It's just all about profit, no machinery/customer best interest involved here. I started hunting for after market oil companies and found Summit Industrial Products a group 3, 4, and 5 industrial oil company. A Freudenberg/Kluber company.

They pushed me to a PAO with a small amount Ester oil and it came back hammered too. The VP said you are over thinking it, run the crap out of it. But all my testing said, nope, I am not over thinking it. Here and many other places I have found that no one cares about your stuff, even if they have to warranty it. It is always good enough, when clearly it is not. I then had to push to deny his "run the crap out of it" and go with their group 5 POE oil that solved out problems of the world's largest rotary screw air compressor company crap OEM oil that " their engineer's" think is good enough,and YOU would think it is good enough because their enginneer's said so.

I got a small "sign" saying "good job" from the local service manager on finding out their oil was crap, even though they fought me tooth an nail, like I was the problem and "why would the world's leading rotary screw air compressor company use [censored] oil?" When CLEARLY they do. I have ZERO varnishing now, that cripples these machines mid/long term. I can Now go 12,000 hrs if I wanted to, but choose to go 8,000 on this oil because their POE oil costs me $300 a 5 gallon pail. Through my research I have worked with 3 different oil enginner's and picked their brains on oil. So sorry, I have some idea that spending $70 more for an group 4 or group 5 oil then crap WS oil on a $28,000 crossover where the manufacture chose crap oil out of shear profit. Then at least dump the crap WS and pay the same price and use a full group 3 MaxLife ATF, and then you can have $70 more for 2 tankfuls of gas and have a ok ATF in your trans other then the crap WS semi-synthetic profit robber Toyota uses it for. Wink.

Also add the fact that also work with the "Godfather" of the Allison transmission, as my oil analysis company and have talked over many times ATF fluids and cocktailing type F into the mix. He is also one of my consultants I worked closely with. There is almost no risk when using high end quality ATFs that are approved for said manufacture.
.
 
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I'm going to be dumping the fresh FF of WS fluid in my Highlander for Amsoil Fuel Economy formula. Do a full exchange to get all the break-in wear out of there. It has the UA80F transmission in there without a serviceable filter.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I'm going to be dumping the fresh FF of WS fluid in my Highlander for Amsoil Fuel Economy formula. Do a full exchange to get all the break-in wear out of there. It has the UA80F transmission in there without a serviceable filter.


Note: you are in Canada and you do not have the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act, so you are NOT protected by common sense logic on fluid use, you are at the whim of Toyota Canada screwing you IF they test the oil. When in almost every case they don't. Don't say a word. If I was in Canada and did not have the M-M Warranty Act, I would switch out the WS every 25,000 Can we assume Toyota uses an external separate non radiator ATF cooler?Here in the USA, I could drive your truck off the lot with 40 mies on it and put Amsoil or Redline in and if the trans blew and it was not proven to be the oil and it must be proven by the manufacture the oil itself failed, which almost never happens with good solid boutique oils. I have talked to both oil companies and rogue dealers will try to deny warranty on the oil and mostly fail when they have to prove it. The manufactures never brings up the oil since they know the law and they know oil failures are so so rare.
.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Mainia
Originally Posted By: MaximaGuy
Having said that WS is a crappy fluid because we have a lot of craaap on this forum.
Folks from all walks of life chime in their mindless nonsense based on hersay.
T-IV and WS are good fluids designed by thousands of mechanical and fluid engineers, RL/Amsoil cannot reenginer their knowledge to create a wonder soup.

You are on your own if you screw around in fluid & coolant & plugs.


WS is a crappy ATF, cheap sub-standard base stocks. It is a semi-synthetic. Group 2 and 3's have no place as a main base oil in an ATF fluid unless Grandma is driving it. Non turbo car engine oil is fine too if you don't want to start your car in 25-30 below weather here in Minnesota, where group 3's pour like thick honey in the cold winter mornings.

Also I don't go for the "by the manual" and "you think you are a better engineer then Toyota's" Dogma on auto forums. You get guys who think they are car mechanics and they post 3,000 posts and you find out they have never picked up a wrench in their life. And Amsoil and Redline is so far superior then WS clearly just by what basestocks they use, plus they have an aggressive add-pack, because they can. Toyota's WS ATF oil has all and more profit taken out of it and it's cheaper price, then Amsoil or Redline get on their oils. So you can't help but get a cheap oil. I found that out with our Rav 4 that was a lease return from a woman in Upstate New York. No soccer mom hauling, no hitch and in show room condition rear half like nothing was used or put in there since new. I drained the crap WS and it was burn't big time at 21,400 miles. I have done many Audi ATF flushes and this is right up there with some of my high mileage drain I did, But at 21,000 I was astonished how beat up this oil was. I got sick it smelled so bad, a clear sign it was cooked. So the women must of been a 2,000 lbs women to beat the crap out of this crap WS? I of course added an external ATF cooler and gee, spent an extra $70 more putting in Redline vs the crap WS. Gee, just a deal breaker there when the Rav4 is a $28,000 crossover. That is two tankfuls of gas, a deal breaker for quality ATF. An ATF that can actually take some heat without degrading.

Just because an OEM uses an oil doesn't mean SQUAT. Example: our group of Atlas Copco rotary screw air compressors that I have under my belt at work. We were burning up the OEM PAO ($550 for 5 gallons = $30 a Qt) in the first 800 hours of the 8,000 hour spec for the PAO. It was a "varnish creating machine" OEM said run the crap out of it, they thought I was nuts. Oil analysis said we had an major varnishing issue, MPC test showed a problem. Again your nuts, our engineers tested this oil, ((ME->"here we go")) "SO you think you know more then our engineers who spent hours testing our (ME->[censored]) oil?" I said "apparently I do know more "Or I then re worded it. I am ALLOWED to say their findings, where they can't" SO this OEM has their machines and my best interest in line. Nope. It's just all about profit, no machinery/customer best interest involved here. I started hunting for after market oil companies and found Summit Industrial Products a group 3, 4, and 5 industrial oil company. A Freudenberg/Kluber company.

They pushed me to a PAO with a small amount Ester oil and it came back hammered too. The VP said you are over thinking it, run the crap out of it. But all my testing said, nope, I am not over thinking it. Here and many other places I have found that no one cares about your stuff, even if they have to warranty it. It is always good enough, when clearly it is not. I then had to push to deny his "run the crap out of it" and go with their group 5 POE oil that solved out problems of the world's largest rotary screw air compressor company crap OEM oil that " their engineer's" think is good enough,and YOU would think it is good enough because their enginneer's said so.

I got a small "sign" saying "good job" from the local service manager on finding out their oil was crap, even though they fought me tooth an nail, like I was the problem and "why would the world's leading rotary screw air compressor company use [censored] oil?" When CLEARLY they do. I have ZERO varnishing now, that cripples these machines mid/long term. I can Now go 12,000 hrs if I wanted to, but choose to go 8,000 on this oil because their POE oil costs me $300 a 5 gallon pail. Through my research I have worked with 3 different oil enginner's and picked their brains on oil. So sorry, I have some idea that spending $70 more for an group 4 or group 5 oil then crap WS oil on a $28,000 crossover where the manufacture chose crap oil out of shear profit. Then at least dump the crap WS and pay the same price and use a full group 3 MaxLife ATF, and then you can have $70 more for 2 tankfuls of gas and have a ok ATF in your trans other then the crap WS semi-synthetic profit robber Toyota uses it for. Wink.

Also add the fact that also work with the "Godfather" of the Allison transmission, as my oil analysis company and have talked over many times ATF fluids and cocktailing type F into the mix. He is also one of my consultants I worked closely with. There is almost no risk when using high end quality ATFs that are approved for said manufacture.
.


Somehow I deleted I owned a hobby Audi repair shop and rebuilt many race motors for people along with special fly cut cranks and ultra light harmonic balances. I have drained many cars ATF as I always pushed newer clean ATF and diff fluids. Otherwise that Audi comment is just floating out there in the longer original post I did.

.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: Mainia
I myself hate WS, horrible ATF if you have a Toyota without an external cooler like a RAV4 and you put any rough service on it. It is a semi synthetic. You are lucky from what I have seen, all Lexus have external coolers so that is the saving grace. Any newer car I would suggest Redline or Amsoil. Here since it is a high mileage and older car my first choice would be MaxLife since it is a ok ATF and it is cheap. A great choice for your application.

Just as Toyota/Lexus goes cheap on sub frame paint, anti- corrosion on all their nuts and bolts, and all their metalurgy except their outer painted panels that they are nice enough or we are lucky enough would be a better discriptive word to have low iron. Everything else has high iron content that has excelerated rust/oxidation. They also bring this cheapness into their crap WS ATF. Thank God they build great reliable motors.

Ask any any Toyota/ Lexus mechanic, who has to use a torch on a 3 year old car to get undercartarge bolts lose and 5 year old cars that you need to use the cutting torch to get rusted bolts off because the threads are so degraded. At least here In Minnesota. Honda’s, Audii/VW’s not An issue. Both quality metalurgy and high use of quality anti-corrosion coatingsand minimal rust.


Nissan and Mazda are much worse for rust than Toyota!

The Mazda3 in this image was only about 3 years old at the time. I think this particular example was in Canada:
mazda3-55881bc1a1199.jpg



Krown may help a bit
smile.gif


49079a5b742d9d6f2d2b3c2ac3ed0da6.jpg





That Mazda rust is absolutely not at year 3, more like year 7-9. Minneapolis is salt central in salt use. We NEVER NEVER NEVEZR see 3 year salt issues like this. I call out Embellishment year use on that photo.
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
The Mazda3 in this image was only about 3 years old at the time. I think this particular example was in Canada:


That's what happens on the internet when bull**** is repeated over and over and over. It somehow becomes 'real' to some people.

I will acknowledge that that car could be (3) years old under a few conditions: Someone took a saw or grinder and chewed up the body panels and then when they were done, poured a solvent that ate the surrounding paint/clearcoat.
 
I have used Valvoiline Maxlife and Castrol IMV in several Toyota's , Honda's and Hyundai's and I have never had a transmission issue because of it.
I think the whole "only use OE fluid" argument is hogwash....
 
Originally Posted By: BigD1
Toyota WS was good enough to go 142,000 miles on a 2006 Lexus IS350. Had the Lexus dealership in Charlotte, NC to use their machine to put some fresh WS in it, and the transmission is still doing fine at 154,000.


Absolutely !! Toyota WS is more than good enough especially if changed by the machine every 50K miles
 
I'm willing to risk that. Besides if I had issues with the transmission I could always do a fluid exchange back to WS before taking it in for "Warranty" let them prove I had other stuff in there.
wink.gif


On top of all that Amsoil clearly states it will not void warranty and they also have their own warranty. (Yes I know what that means and yes I know it could get tied up while the claim is happening)
Further in the manual it says I need to use a fluid that meets or exceeds WS fluid standards not that I must use Toyota WS fluid or else.
 
Last edited:
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