Lowest Noack oil for my 2018 VW GTI

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Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: benjy
Redlines EXCELLENT real synthetics have very low noacks + are prolly the BEST oils out there but of course $$$$$. i ran the 10-30 in my 01 jetta that had 200,000 at trade in with 20" of vacuum on the boost-vac gauge!! most all 10-30 will have lower noack but not approved because its a 10W + not a 5W but depending on your local temps a 10 W can do better!!!

Redline Oil with low NOACK is NOT approved oil.
Redline that IS approved is mediocre oil at best.


Redline’s approved oil lineup is a bit of a decent disappointment comparing to other approved oils, price factored in.
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: benjy
Redlines EXCELLENT real synthetics have very low noacks + are prolly the BEST oils out there but of course $$$$$. i ran the 10-30 in my 01 jetta that had 200,000 at trade in with 20" of vacuum on the boost-vac gauge!! most all 10-30 will have lower noack but not approved because its a 10W + not a 5W but depending on your local temps a 10 W can do better!!!

Redline Oil with low NOACK is NOT approved oil.
Redline that IS approved is mediocre oil at best.


Redline’s approved oil lineup is a bit of a decent disappointment comparing to other approved oils, price factored in.

Even if you do not factor in price it is still disappointment.
 
never worried about approved oils!! my 2001 jetta 1.8T got Free oil changes when newer 24,000 i believe, the stealer WOULD NOT but in the true synthetic even if i supplied it. i got the free change + swapped the "driver" they gave me for the day, got home + dumped + saved the OE oil for girlfriends car + put in REAL synthetic!!! this was BEFORE the sludge issues + the NEW recommendation of "synthetic" oil by VW. recommendations are just that, but REQUIRED means they MUST supply it FREE!!!! as i noted no 10W oils are specd these days even thou its a better cold viscosity unless you live in a colder area then a 5W suits. real synthetic Ester + PAO oils flow + protect better than the same grade mineral or fake "synthetic" oils today!!!
 
Originally Posted By: benjy
never worried about approved oils!! my 2001 jetta 1.8T got Free oil changes when newer 24,000 i believe, the stealer WOULD NOT but in the true synthetic even if i supplied it. i got the free change + swapped the "driver" they gave me for the day, got home + dumped + saved the OE oil for girlfriends car + put in REAL synthetic!!! this was BEFORE the sludge issues + the NEW recommendation of "synthetic" oil by VW. recommendations are just that, but REQUIRED means they MUST supply it FREE!!!! as i noted no 10W oils are specd these days even thou its a better cold viscosity unless you live in a colder area then a 5W suits. real synthetic Ester + PAO oils flow + protect better than the same grade mineral or fake "synthetic" oils today!!!

And you got that from where?
 
This is the oil I'm eyeing for my personal MK7 GTI at my next change. These cars see oil temps start to climb pretty quickly when driven hard, plus I plan on doing a downpipe, intercooler and tune here shortly, so I want something that's capable of standing up to those potentially high temperatures.

https://www.ravenolamerica.com/motor-oil...ra-performance/

HTHS of 3.9, noack of 6.0%.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Coogles
This is the oil I'm eyeing for my personal MK7 GTI at my next change. These cars see oil temps start to climb pretty quickly when driven hard, plus I plan on doing a downpipe, intercooler and tune here shortly, so I want something that's capable of standing up to those potentially high temperatures.

https://www.ravenolamerica.com/motor-oil...ra-performance/

HTHS of 3.9, noack of 6.0%.


Personally, I think that's way thicker than you need and you'll just end up costing yourself power.

Also, keep in mind that if you get an actual tune (not a piggyback tune), your oil temps are going to drop--significantly. After my APR tune, the temps are consistently ~12 degrees less, and it also takes the car a bit longer to reach operating temps. I still think that M1 5W30 ESP is the best bet for this engine, unless you're stacking a JB4 on top of the tune and pushing some crazy boost numbers.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: JOD
Personally, I think that's way thicker than you need and you'll just end up costing yourself power.

Also, keep in mind that if you get an actual tune (not a piggyback tune), your oil temps are going to drop--significantly. After my APR tune, the temps are consistently ~12 degrees less, and it also takes the car a bit longer to reach operating temps. I still think that M1 5W30 ESP is the best bet for this engine, unless you're stacking a JB4 on top of the tune and pushing some crazy boost numbers.


You might be right. I used Motul 8100 X-clean 5w40 in my MK6, I might just go that route again. Although, now looking at the density and viscosities at 40* and 100*, that oil seems just as thick as the Ravenol.

I plan on going with Unitronic, I prefer their more linear torque curve and more turbo-friendly boost levels.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: Coogles
This is the oil I'm eyeing for my personal MK7 GTI at my next change. These cars see oil temps start to climb pretty quickly when driven hard, plus I plan on doing a downpipe, intercooler and tune here shortly, so I want something that's capable of standing up to those potentially high temperatures.

https://www.ravenolamerica.com/motor-oil...ra-performance/



Personally, I think that's way thicker than you need and you'll just end up costing yourself power.



I agree JOD.

FWIW I have a 2018 Golf R and earlier this month I purchased the oil that will replace, sometime late Fall, the current fill of a FUCHS 5W30 i.e. Mobil 1 ESP X1 0W-30. (I will for sure do a UOA of the FUCHS and the Mobil 1 ESP X1 0W-30).
 
Originally Posted By: Coogles
Originally Posted By: JOD
Personally, I think that's way thicker than you need and you'll just end up costing yourself power.

Also, keep in mind that if you get an actual tune (not a piggyback tune), your oil temps are going to drop--significantly. After my APR tune, the temps are consistently ~12 degrees less, and it also takes the car a bit longer to reach operating temps. I still think that M1 5W30 ESP is the best bet for this engine, unless you're stacking a JB4 on top of the tune and pushing some crazy boost numbers.


You might be right. I used Motul 8100 X-clean 5w40 in my MK6, I might just go that route again. Although, now looking at the density and viscosities at 40* and 100*, that oil seems just as thick as the Ravenol.

I plan on going with Unitronic, I prefer their more linear torque curve and more turbo-friendly boost levels.

That oil is bit thick.
I would just pick up Castrol 0W40 from Wal Mart.
 
Originally Posted By: Coogles

I plan on going with Unitronic, I prefer their more linear torque curve and more turbo-friendly boost levels.


Yeah, the torque profile on the Unitronic actually looks a little better to me as well, but I have a great APR dealer close to me, which was the main reason I went with their tune (very happy with it). I don't know if Unitronic is quite as aggressive in the cooling department as APR, but I'm pretty sure they also alter the cooling profile vs. stock.
 
Related to the comments about the Ravenol being too thick, I think this is a useful comparison.

Motul VW 502 - 505 Specific:

Density at 20* C .848
Viscosity at 100* C 13.9
Viscosity at 40* C 84.9
Viscosity index 167
Pour Point -36* C

versus

Ravenol RUP 5w40

Density at 20* C .846
Viscosity at 100* C 14.3
Viscosity at 40* C 87.5
Viscosity index 169
Pour Point -51* C

The two seem so close to me that I can't imagine the Ravenol having a meaningful difference in feel or power. And that pour point makes me think it's made of much better base stocks. I'm new to all of this, so forgive me if I'm being naive here.
 
Originally Posted by Coogles
Related to the comments about the Ravenol being too thick, I think this is a useful comparison.

Motul VW 502 - 505 Specific:

Density at 20* C .848
Viscosity at 100* C 13.9
Viscosity at 40* C 84.9
Viscosity index 167
Pour Point -36* C

versus

Ravenol RUP 5w40

Density at 20* C .846
Viscosity at 100* C 14.3
Viscosity at 40* C 87.5
Viscosity index 169
Pour Point -51* C

The two seem so close to me that I can't imagine the Ravenol having a meaningful difference in feel or power. And that pour point makes me think it's made of much better base stocks. I'm new to all of this, so forgive me if I'm being naive here.


Originally Posted by Coogles
Related to the comments about the Ravenol being too thick, I think this is a useful comparison.

Motul VW 502 - 505 Specific:

Density at 20* C .848
Viscosity at 100* C 13.9
Viscosity at 40* C 84.9
Viscosity index 167
Pour Point -36* C

versus

Ravenol RUP 5w40

Density at 20* C .846
Viscosity at 100* C 14.3
Viscosity at 40* C 87.5
Viscosity index 169
Pour Point -51* C

The two seem so close to me that I can't imagine the Ravenol having a meaningful difference in feel or power. And that pour point makes me think it's made of much better base stocks. I'm new to all of this, so forgive me if I'm being naive here.



It is thick.
First of all, Motul is really mediocre oil in that application. Pour point of -36 is really not something to brag about.
However, while Ravenol has really stout numbers and is tru synthetic, HTHS of 3.9 will create more resistance and driver will feel difference in turbo spool. When I used old M1 0W40 that had HTHS of 3.8, I could always feel slower spool compared to Castrol 0W30 GC I used before and after.
Also such thick oil will create more heat.
It is good oil, it will do good, but considering Castrol 0W40 is available in Wal mart for $27 for 5qt, I seriously do not see point in this oil.
 
Does anybody know what the HTHS and NOACK are for Castrol 0w40?

https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/ABA58BD5C9E98421802582D000613AC5/$File/BPXE-B33J98.pdf
 
Originally Posted by Coogles
Does anybody know what the HTHS and NOACK are for Castrol 0w40?

https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/ABA58BD5C9E98421802582D000613AC5/$File/BPXE-B33J98.pdf


I believe it is 3.7 and ~8%, respectively.
 
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted by Coogles
Does anybody know what the HTHS and NOACK are for Castrol 0w40?

https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/ABA58BD5C9E98421802582D000613AC5/$File/BPXE-B33J98.pdf


I believe it is 3.7 and ~8%, respectively.

Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted by Coogles
Does anybody know what the HTHS and NOACK are for Castrol 0w40?

https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/ABA58BD5C9E98421802582D000613AC5/$File/BPXE-B33J98.pdf


I believe it is 3.7 and ~8%, respectively.

HTHS=3.7
NOACK: 9.1%

0W30:
HTHS: 3.58
NOACK: 8.1%.
 
Originally Posted by JoelB
How about a high quality oil catch can? That would be my first purchase if i owned a turbo vehicle.


Waste of money. The lack of a catch can will in no way hinder performance of a stock vehicle. Yes they "work" to some degree, but they're not doing anything other than satisfying ones wrench boredom / obsessive compulsiveness.


I rank them right up there with magnetic drain plugs.
 
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