hub grappler style vs press when doing wheel bearings

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
What was the matter with the old school style like on my Mercedes cars?

Undo the nut, pull the rotor, pull the bearings, etc. Only downside is the press/removal of the outer race. But doesn’t seem as challenging as what I’m reading, even if play is set with a dial indicator.


Nothing wrong with that in my book. But its not what they are making now. Plus you probably have to repack regrease every 30k or with the brake job.

The press in knuckle, hub bearing is more of a pain and near impossible for the average diy. I have done several on saturn s-series, but i have a press.


Seems like they could improve on the grease longevity and have an easier assembly to work on.

I guess it’s more expensive to put together consistently in the factory.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
What was the matter with the old school style like on my Mercedes cars?

Undo the nut, pull the rotor, pull the bearings, etc. Only downside is the press/removal of the outer race. But doesn’t seem as challenging as what I’m reading, even if play is set with a dial indicator.


Nothing wrong with that in my book. But its not what they are making now. Plus you probably have to repack regrease every 30k or with the brake job.

The press in knuckle, hub bearing is more of a pain and near impossible for the average diy. I have done several on saturn s-series, but i have a press.


I did both left and right bearings on my camper the other night in 30 minutes. That includes cleaning out the bearings in kerosene.

It's easy and relaxing

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
What was the matter with the old school style like on my Mercedes cars?

Undo the nut, pull the rotor, pull the bearings, etc. Only downside is the press/removal of the outer race. But doesn’t seem as challenging as what I’m reading, even if play is set with a dial indicator.


Some cars still use that style on rear drums. The sealed bearing pressed into the knuckle or unit hub is very strong and provides a lot of stability for the pressed in hub if used and outer CV joint.
Fitting a CV shaft through the rotor would be almost impossible without a pressed in bearing also fitted in the knuckle thus making the CV stub axle the spindle. Some now very old Euro cars used this arrangement, believe me you don't want to deal with it.

Rotors with wheel bearings in them cost a lot more and are more prone to warping from inaccurate tightening sequence and over torque.

 

[JC1]

A tip I found was to put the new bearing in the freezer overnight. It's a bit smaller and presses in easier.

I had to use a 12 ton press to get it in. I practised with the old race from the old bearing to get the technique right.

Had to change a 98 Sienna front wheel bearing twice. Cheap bearing made noise within a week.

 

[Trav]

Another trick to install bearings on a RWD axle is to place the bearing on a 75-100w incandescent light bulb for 30 min then drop it right on and ram it home quickly with a piece of properly size iron pipe. Done them that way for many years, no press needed.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: JC1
A tip I found was to put the new bearing in the freezer overnight. It's a bit smaller and presses in easier.

I had to use a 12 ton press to get it in. I practised with the old race from the old bearing to get the technique right.

Had to change a 98 Sienna front wheel bearing twice. Cheap bearing made noise within a week.



Thats what i do. I freeze them overnight. Clean the hub really well. They press in pretty good with a 12 ton. I have had trouble pressing out

bad overheated bearings from saturn knuckles with a 12 ton. My advice is anyone buying a press, go ahead and the the 20 ton. Mine is an HF press, not many choices for the home DIY guy for presses( HF and northern tool- not professional quality at all), unless you luck up on craigslist. I'm watching craigslist for a good used 20 ton.