ABS Problem... 2001 Honda Odyssey

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Hi Everyone,

I did some work on my 2001 Honda Odyssey. In my repairs, I removed both front brake calipers, and the passenger side cv axle. When I put everything together, my abs and tcs lights were on. I was able to pull 2 codes: 31 (Hydraulic Modulator Solenoid Valve right hand front) and 34 (Hydraulic Modulator Solenoid Valve left hand front).

I looked around, thinking I bumped some wires in that area. There are not a lot of wires in that area, so no luck. The abs and tcs worked before I worked on it. Any ideas where I go from here? A light was left on overnight, so I have a dead battery when I got out in the morning. Would that have affected the system?

Thanks for any help you can give.

Brad
 
A low battery in that vintage Honda will certainly throw some wonky codes that you describe. Put a new Value Walmart battery in for $50 along with their NOCO battery treatment service for $3.50 and motor on. No more codes.
 
Sounds like something in the van knows it has low fluid pressure. If there's a computer required for bleeding, look into that angle.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
A low battery in that vintage Honda will certainly throw some wonky codes that you describe. Put a new Value Walmart battery in for $50 along with their NOCO battery treatment service for $3.50 and motor on. No more codes.


Thanks for the suggestion. I can throw in a good battery from another vehicle and see what happens.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Sounds like something in the van knows it has low fluid pressure. If there's a computer required for bleeding, look into that angle.


I did use a c clamp to push the pistons in a little to put them back on. Maybe I unwittingly cause it by doing that?
 
Originally Posted By: DeafBrad
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Sounds like something in the van knows it has low fluid pressure. If there's a computer required for bleeding, look into that angle.


I did use a c clamp to push the pistons in a little to put them back on. Maybe I unwittingly cause it by doing that?



Not really. When changing pads to new pads, I would suggest cracking a bleed screw, attaching a clear hose into clear plastic bottle and compress the piston with channel locks. If you get your "Hoop" or "Loop" done correctly I have yet to have air get sucked back into the caliper. I have done 100's by myself. Look up the 1 man bleed, but you would be doing it without using the brake peddle.

When you just use a C clamp, you are pushing possibly dirty fluid back toward the master cylinder and can possibly cause a leaky master cylinder that way by pushing dirt under the master cylinder diaphragm.


By the description of what you have done, I really don't see what you had done to cause an issue with the ABS system.


When, and if you get to the rears, come back to the board and ask about the slotted pistons...lol, they don't just compress with a C clamp!
 
I helped a cousin do a pad slap on his 2005 Buick Lacrosse , front and rear .

Went to do the rears , c-clamp would not compress the piston . I vaguely rember doing the brakes on a Chevy Lumina , years ago . Had to rotate / " screw " in the piston . This is part of the parking brake system .

Went inside and did a search on youtube . Found a video shoping someone using a special tool to do this . Looked it up and Harbor Freight has this tool ;

https://www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-11-pc-63264.html

Not buying that . Went to the truck and got a medium set of " Channel Lock " pliers . Screwed them in , worked fine . Just be careful not to damage the rubber " boot " around the piston .

He also has a ABS / Traction control lite on the instrument cluster . We measured the resistance of each speed sensor coil . All seemed fine . Probably something in the wiring harness .

That has yet to be addressed .
 
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
He also has a ABS / Traction control lite on the instrument cluster . We measured the resistance of each speed sensor coil . All seemed fine . Probably something in the wiring harness .

That has yet to be addressed .
Could be. Sensors do go bad. Sensors can also suffer from rust jacking--rust gets under them and pushes the sensor away from the tone ring.
 
I replaced one of those style of sensors on the company Silverado I drive .

However , his car uses the coil that is part of the wheel bearing hub .

Unplugged each one and tested the sensor coil with an ohm meter . All seemed good . So , the theory is the wiring harness that it plugs into .

Neither of us live in the salt belt , thank God !
 
He recently purchased this car with ~ 135,000 on the clock .

No service history , but the plastic coolant elbows have been changed to metal ones ( we were going to do that but were pleasantly surprised . Fluid in the reservoir looks clean . ATF looks and smells good . Coolant looked pretty good so we topped it off . Hoses looked good from the outside . Serpentine belt looked good .

Brake pads would have lasted at least another 30,000 miles , but since we had to take the calipers off to gain access to the speed sensor connector ( to check the ohms ) , I am glad he oped to purchase new pads .

It may be a well maintained car . Next things he may have to do is replace tires .
 
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