F150 3.5 Ecoboost, Troubling UOA, Castrol Edge 0w40

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Please consider this fresh report from my brothers 2012 F150 Platinum with the 3.5 Ecoboost. It looks like a problem exists. Some details on the truck; all prior UOAs are either Magnatec 5w30 or 10w30, always Fram Ultra filters. I told my brother to try the Edge 0w40 because I have tons of it from a $10 jug AutoZone cleanout, and we were curious how it would compare to the Magnatec. The truck is Livernois 93 Octane Tuned, Catless, Cold Air Intake, lower thermostat, catch can system, newer factory plugs. The prior UOA had these mods and about 2000 miles of towing my CTS-V, so it's not a result of the work done. He does mostly rural and highway driving. It doesn't sit in traffic that frequently but my brother is known to remote start his truck and leave it run for 15-20 minutes if he doesn't get out the door. But that has always been his thing. Most of his work driving is 40-50 mile drives, this truck rarely does a short trip anywhere.

My guess is maybe a leaking injector washing the cylinder, creating extra iron?

He did take a sample between these two changes and never sent it in, he's going to mail that one ASAP. Not sure what to do next. Maybe pull the injectors attached to the fuel rail and see if any leak pressurized.

Otherwise, this Edge looks like a stout oil.


 
Instead of pulling the injectors I would check the long term fuel trim at idle and at #
2500 rpm. Leaky fuel injectors will show a negative ltft of -%10 or greater. Ideally your ltft will stay within +/- 5% if all fuel metering and injection systems are running optimally.

Leaky injector will probably show highest fuel trim correction at idle and decrease a little as rpms's increase, closed throttle is high vacuum and would pull more fuel through the injector.
 
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$25 OBD2 Bluetooth adapter from Amazon, bafx brand. Then torque pro app. Or stop by a parts store and see if their code reader will pull live sensor data. Most these days do
 
Make sure your catch can plumbing isn't leaking.

And NO MORE REMOTE START.

Is the truck still pulling smoothly and idling well?

But the First question is how does it run? and has there been a fuel mileage decrease?

If so like John says look at trim. Could be an injector with a bad pattern - unless the tune somehow went south.
And I really don't understand what could be his reasoning for the illegal (catless++) tune.

Also it is a FORD made after 1974.


++ secretly I want to be catless and I am jealous ...
 
The truck is seemingly running 100%, my brother takes good care of his vehicles. Fuel mileage is consistent. He went catless to run the higher boost.
 
Perhaps Livernois will view a datalog for him and hopefully narrow it down to a bank. Might pull all the plugs in the meantime, see if one stands out.
 
My two cents.

The tune has caused accelerated injector wear so one or more is starting to leak. Excessive idling is also a possibility.
 
Look at the fuel pump.
IIRC its located at the rear of the drivers head.
They have been known to leak.
Not a uncommon problem.
 
Originally Posted By: KJSmith
Look at the fuel pump.
IIRC its located at the rear of the drivers head.
They have been known to leak.
Not a uncommon problem.


Good call KJSmith, I did some forum specific searching. That is a possibility. Some guys are seeing their dipstick rise 1/2" in 100 miles with that pump seal failure. Most likely culprit is a bad PCV valve though;

https://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/31-f150-ecoboost-problems/8270-fuel-smell-oil-12.html

TSB 14-0014 3.5L GTDI - FUEL ODOR FROM ENGINE OIL AND/OR ENGINE OIL LEVEL OVERFULL
Publication Date: January 20, 2014

2011-2014 F-150
ISSUE: Some 2011-2014 F-150 vehicles equipped with a 3.5L Gasoline Turbocharged Direct Injection (GTDI) engine may exhibit a raw fuel odor from the engine oil and/or an engine oil level indication overfull.


SERVICE PROCEDURE

#. Is the vehicle equipped with a heater in the thermostat housing? Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-03.
Yes - remove and discard the heater and cord. Refer to WSM, Section 303-03. Proceed to Step 2.
No - proceed to Step 2.

#. Remove the left hand (LH) Turbocharger. Refer to WSM, Section 303-04.

#. Install the Block Heater Kit.
Installation instructions are provided in the kit.

#. Install the LH Turbocharger. Refer to WSM, Section 303-04.

#. Change the engine oil and oil filter.

#. Replace the Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve (PCV) . Refer to WSM, Section 303-08.

#. Determine the vehicle build date. Refer to WSM, Section 100-01.
a. If the vehicle build date is on or before 10/24/2011, proceed to Step 7.
b. If the vehicle build date is after 10/24/2011, proceed to Step 11.

#. Remove and discard brake booster vacuum hose. (Figure 1)


Figure 1 - 14-0014


#. Install the new brake booster vacuum hose. (Figure 2)


Figure 2 - 14-0014


#. Install the cap on the air intake. (Figure 2)

#. Reprogram the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) Module to the latest calibration using IDS release 88.02A and higher.

#. Reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM) to the latest calibration using IDS release 88.02A and higher.

NOTE PLEASE ADVISE THE CUSTOMER THAT THIS VEHICLE IS EQUIPPED WITH AN ADAPTIVE TRANSMISSION SHIFT STRATEGY WHICH ALLOWS THE VEHICLE'S COMPUTER TO LEARN THE TRANSMISSION'S UNIQUE PARAMETERS AND IMPROVE SHIFT QUALITY. WHEN THE ADAPTIVE STRATEGY IS RESET, THE COMPUTER WILL BEGIN A RE-LEARNING PROCESS. THIS RE-LEARNING PROCESS MAY RESULT IN FIRMER THAN NORMAL UPSHIFTS AND DOWNSHIFTS FOR SEVERAL DAYS.

Advise the customer that the block heater should be plugged in at -15 °C (0 °F) or less to improve fuel-in-oil symptoms.

PART NUMBER PART NAME DL3Z–6D008-A Block Heater W520514-S440 Exhaust Nut (4 Req) BL3Z-6N652-B Turbo Oil Line Gasket AA5Z-00815-C Oil Line O-Ring CL3Z-9450-B Gasket - Exhaust Man AA5Z-6A666-D PCV CL3Z-9C490-B Vacuum Hose W716372-S300 Vacuum Cap W715673-S900 Bolt - Turbocharger (3 Req) VC-3-B Motorcraft® Orange Antifreeze/Coolant Concentrated FL-500S Motorcraft® Oil Filter XO-5W30-QSP Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil .

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 140014A 2011-2014 F-150 4X2, 2013-2014 F-150 4X4 3.5L GTDI: Install Block Heater And PCV Valve Includes Time To Remove And Install Left Bank Turbo Charger, Reprogram The PCM/ABS Modules And Replace The Brake Booster Brake Booster Vacuum Hose If Necessary (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 3.7 Hrs. 140014A 2011-2012 F-150 4X4 3.5L GTDI: Install Block Heater And PCV Valve Includes Time To Remove And Install Left Bank Turbo Charger, Reprogram The PCM/ABS Modules And Replace The Brake Booster Brake Booster Vacuum Hose If Necessary (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 3.8 Hrs. 140014B 2011-2014 F-150 4X2, 2013-2014 F-150 4X4 3.5L GTDI: Remove Existing Block Heater Per Procedure, Install Block Heater And PCV Valve Includes Time To Remove And Install Left Bank Turbo Charger, Reprogram The PCM/ABS Modules And Replace The Brake Booster Brake Booster Vacuum Hose If Necessary (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 3.9 Hrs. 140014B 2011-2012 F-150 4X4 3.5L GTDI: Remove Existing Block Heater Per Procedure, Install Block Heater And PCV Valve Includes Time To Remove And Install Left Bank Turbo Charger, Reprogram The PCM/ABS Modules And Replace The Brake Booster Brake Booster Vacuum Hose If Necessary (Do Not Use With Any Other Labor Operations) 4.0 Hrs.

WARRANTY STATUS

Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage.
Warranty/ESP coverage limits/policies/prior approvals are not altered by a TSB. Warranty/ESP coverage limits are determined by the identified causal part and verified using the OASIS part coverage tool.

DEALER CODING

BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE 6A666 42
 
Originally Posted By: KJSmith
Look at the fuel pump.
IIRC its located at the rear of the drivers head.
They have been known to leak.
Not a uncommon problem.


I don't understand how this could cause sump dilution. Is it designed to release high fuel rail pressure when vehicle is shut down to prevent injector drip?


-ken
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: KJSmith
Look at the fuel pump.
IIRC its located at the rear of the drivers head.
They have been known to leak.
Not a uncommon problem.


I don't understand how this could cause sump dilution. Is it designed to release high fuel rail pressure when vehicle is shut down to prevent injector drip?


-ken



It has a seal that can leak.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
But how does that get past the D injector pintle?
Are they inherently "drippy"?



I'm learning as I go, but the high-pressure fuel pump sits in the valve cover and supposedly if that o-ring begins to fail it will send fuel into your oil. The guy who posted this picture on the F150 forum was seeing his dipstick level rise 1/2" every 100 miles. The dealership couldn't figure out what the problem was. He solved it himself replacing this pump. Seems like a dumb design, though not as dumb as Ford making the water pump internal on some 3.5's so when they inevitably fail it puts coolant right into your oil.

35382d1431093501-fuel-smell-oil-fullsizerender3.jpg
 
If I remember right, it is a mechanical pump that runs off a lobe on one of the camshafts in the drivers side head.
When it leaks, it leaks in the head.
Gas works its way down same as the oil.
 
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