I've done a UOA with both M1 EP and Pennzoil Ultra. Though it was a few years ago and the formula has changed, the Pennzoil had much more aluminum wear.
All things equal...Mobil 1 versus pennzoil
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PZ has proven better at cleaning your engine than M1, up to 65% cleaner than leading synthetic. The higher aluminum ppm in your UOA only proves that PZ was very good at cleaning your engine.
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/...tinum-5W-30.pdf
I would use PZ Ultra if you want a very clean engine, and would use M1 AFE or EP if I want to do extended drain for 10K+ OCI
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/...tinum-5W-30.pdf
I would use PZ Ultra if you want a very clean engine, and would use M1 AFE or EP if I want to do extended drain for 10K+ OCI
Originally Posted By: camryrolla
PZ has proven better at cleaning your engine than M1, up to 65% cleaner than leading synthetic. The higher aluminum ppm in your UOA only proves that PZ was very good at cleaning your engine.
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/...tinum-5W-30.pdf
I would use PZ Ultra if you want a very clean engine, and would use M1 AFE or EP if I want to do extended drain for 10K+ OCI
A good example of how marketing works.
PZ has proven better at cleaning your engine than M1, up to 65% cleaner than leading synthetic. The higher aluminum ppm in your UOA only proves that PZ was very good at cleaning your engine.
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/...tinum-5W-30.pdf
I would use PZ Ultra if you want a very clean engine, and would use M1 AFE or EP if I want to do extended drain for 10K+ OCI
A good example of how marketing works.
Originally Posted By: HKPolice
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: HKPolice
Either brand is fine, but you should stick with whatever you choose as changing oil chemistry every interval does more harm than good.
That is 100% B.S.
Believe what you want, I don't care. Fleet UOA tests have shown otherwise.
Logic also backs this up. For example: most oils use Boron/Moly based additives for AW, some use Sodium (Valvoline & Royal Purple). There isn't a single oil that uses all 3 types, prove me wrong.
Funny because I spent over 23 years in a fleet sales, leas,e rental and repair corporation. Class 8 vehicles, forklifts , and cars pickups etc,.I guess I'll just follow go for the marketing claims.
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: HKPolice
Either brand is fine, but you should stick with whatever you choose as changing oil chemistry every interval does more harm than good.
That is 100% B.S.
Believe what you want, I don't care. Fleet UOA tests have shown otherwise.
Logic also backs this up. For example: most oils use Boron/Moly based additives for AW, some use Sodium (Valvoline & Royal Purple). There isn't a single oil that uses all 3 types, prove me wrong.
Funny because I spent over 23 years in a fleet sales, leas,e rental and repair corporation. Class 8 vehicles, forklifts , and cars pickups etc,.I guess I'll just follow go for the marketing claims.
Originally Posted By: irv
I don't know about you, but it just makes sense to me. Quieter running engine = lower wear metal counts and noisier running engines = increased/higher wear metal counts?
I completely agree that sound level could reflect wear protection (and overall oil performance)!
However, the fact that many engines have been running strong for several hundred k miles with Mobil 1 suggests that the actual differences in wear protection may not really matter. Other parts of the car will likely fail long before any oil-related issues arise.
Regardless, I like that my engines run very smooth and quiet with PPHM and Valvoline, and that is good enough for me!
I don't know about you, but it just makes sense to me. Quieter running engine = lower wear metal counts and noisier running engines = increased/higher wear metal counts?
I completely agree that sound level could reflect wear protection (and overall oil performance)!
However, the fact that many engines have been running strong for several hundred k miles with Mobil 1 suggests that the actual differences in wear protection may not really matter. Other parts of the car will likely fail long before any oil-related issues arise.
Regardless, I like that my engines run very smooth and quiet with PPHM and Valvoline, and that is good enough for me!
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: PimTac
Originally Posted By: camryrolla
PZ has proven better at cleaning your engine than M1, up to 65% cleaner than leading synthetic. The higher aluminum ppm in your UOA only proves that PZ was very good at cleaning your engine.
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/...tinum-5W-30.pdf
I would use PZ Ultra if you want a very clean engine, and would use M1 AFE or EP if I want to do extended drain for 10K+ OCI
A good example of how marketing works.
Yup, bought that one hook, line and sinker
Originally Posted By: camryrolla
PZ has proven better at cleaning your engine than M1, up to 65% cleaner than leading synthetic. The higher aluminum ppm in your UOA only proves that PZ was very good at cleaning your engine.
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/...tinum-5W-30.pdf
I would use PZ Ultra if you want a very clean engine, and would use M1 AFE or EP if I want to do extended drain for 10K+ OCI
A good example of how marketing works.
Yup, bought that one hook, line and sinker
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
I've done a UOA with both M1 EP and Pennzoil Ultra. Though it was a few years ago and the formula has changed, the Pennzoil had much more aluminum wear.
From the viscosity increase, it looks like you may have had an oxidative oil failure with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP) with the long OCI you tried.
I would say next time try a dexos1 Gen 2 0W-20 instead of a 5W-20, as it tends to have a better base oil, which is more suitable for extended OCI's. The mostly GTL Super Tech High-Mileage 0W-20 is a great choice. Mobil 1 AFE, EP, and AP 0W-20 have even better base oils, a little higher TBN, except with the caveat of possibly somewhat higher iron number (valvetrain wear) because of some ester in base oil. If you don't have GDI, Genuine Nissan Motor Oil 0W-20 is also a great choice, with the best GTL formulation out there but no moly and Mg, available cheaply on eBay.
I've done a UOA with both M1 EP and Pennzoil Ultra. Though it was a few years ago and the formula has changed, the Pennzoil had much more aluminum wear.
From the viscosity increase, it looks like you may have had an oxidative oil failure with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP) with the long OCI you tried.
I would say next time try a dexos1 Gen 2 0W-20 instead of a 5W-20, as it tends to have a better base oil, which is more suitable for extended OCI's. The mostly GTL Super Tech High-Mileage 0W-20 is a great choice. Mobil 1 AFE, EP, and AP 0W-20 have even better base oils, a little higher TBN, except with the caveat of possibly somewhat higher iron number (valvetrain wear) because of some ester in base oil. If you don't have GDI, Genuine Nissan Motor Oil 0W-20 is also a great choice, with the best GTL formulation out there but no moly and Mg, available cheaply on eBay.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Originally Posted By: camryrolla
PZ has proven better at cleaning your engine than M1, up to 65% cleaner than leading synthetic. The higher aluminum ppm in your UOA only proves that PZ was very good at cleaning your engine.
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/...tinum-5W-30.pdf
I would use PZ Ultra if you want a very clean engine, and would use M1 AFE or EP if I want to do extended drain for 10K+ OCI
A good example of how marketing works.
Yup, bought that one hook, line and sinker
Yes, and most of us recognize how clean M1 oils keep engines clean over hundreds of thousands of miles. Not sayin PP or PU doesn't.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Originally Posted By: camryrolla
PZ has proven better at cleaning your engine than M1, up to 65% cleaner than leading synthetic. The higher aluminum ppm in your UOA only proves that PZ was very good at cleaning your engine.
https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/products/...tinum-5W-30.pdf
I would use PZ Ultra if you want a very clean engine, and would use M1 AFE or EP if I want to do extended drain for 10K+ OCI
A good example of how marketing works.
Yup, bought that one hook, line and sinker
Yes, and most of us recognize how clean M1 oils keep engines clean over hundreds of thousands of miles. Not sayin PP or PU doesn't.
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
I've done a UOA with both M1 EP and Pennzoil Ultra. Though it was a few years ago and the formula has changed, the Pennzoil had much more aluminum wear.
Your UOA reads "Super tech synthetic"? Which UOA did you use the Pennzoil on?
Also, like mentioned, it looks like your first UOA had quite a few miles on in it between OC's and the others you mainly stuck with 10,000 mile OC's except for the last one?
Did you skip a UOA(s) at those times or did you actually put those miles on before doing an oil change?
I've done a UOA with both M1 EP and Pennzoil Ultra. Though it was a few years ago and the formula has changed, the Pennzoil had much more aluminum wear.
Your UOA reads "Super tech synthetic"? Which UOA did you use the Pennzoil on?
Also, like mentioned, it looks like your first UOA had quite a few miles on in it between OC's and the others you mainly stuck with 10,000 mile OC's except for the last one?
Did you skip a UOA(s) at those times or did you actually put those miles on before doing an oil change?
^^
Look at the bottom. The most recent one I did was SuperTech Synthetic, the rest of them are labelled at the bottom for ease of reference. I didn't do UOA's every single oil change, only when I felt like it. Still somewhat frequently.
Look at the bottom. The most recent one I did was SuperTech Synthetic, the rest of them are labelled at the bottom for ease of reference. I didn't do UOA's every single oil change, only when I felt like it. Still somewhat frequently.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
...Super Tech High-Mileage is also mostly GTL, better than Pennzoil Platinum, and it's by far the cheapest, is dexos1 Gen 2, and has no shortcomings
...Pennzoil Platinum "PurePlus" GTL-containing oil was easily beaten by three-other no-ad GTL-containing oils, meaning the latter oils may have more or better GTL
Drawing conclusions on the overall performance of an oil based on two (CCS & NOACK) parameters of many is fundamentally flawed.
...Super Tech High-Mileage is also mostly GTL, better than Pennzoil Platinum, and it's by far the cheapest, is dexos1 Gen 2, and has no shortcomings
...Pennzoil Platinum "PurePlus" GTL-containing oil was easily beaten by three-other no-ad GTL-containing oils, meaning the latter oils may have more or better GTL
Drawing conclusions on the overall performance of an oil based on two (CCS & NOACK) parameters of many is fundamentally flawed.
Originally Posted By: irv
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
I've done a UOA with both M1 EP and Pennzoil Ultra. Though it was a few years ago and the formula has changed, the Pennzoil had much more aluminum wear.
Your UOA reads "Super tech synthetic"? Which UOA did you use the Pennzoil on?
Also, like mentioned, it looks like your first UOA had quite a few miles on in it between OC's and the others you mainly stuck with 10,000 mile OC's except for the last one?
Did you skip a UOA(s) at those times or did you actually put those miles on before doing an oil change?
UH OH! Pennzoil bad!
Found the SOPUS shill.
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
I've done a UOA with both M1 EP and Pennzoil Ultra. Though it was a few years ago and the formula has changed, the Pennzoil had much more aluminum wear.
Your UOA reads "Super tech synthetic"? Which UOA did you use the Pennzoil on?
Also, like mentioned, it looks like your first UOA had quite a few miles on in it between OC's and the others you mainly stuck with 10,000 mile OC's except for the last one?
Did you skip a UOA(s) at those times or did you actually put those miles on before doing an oil change?
UH OH! Pennzoil bad!
Found the SOPUS shill.
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
^^
Look at the bottom. The most recent one I did was SuperTech Synthetic, the rest of them are labelled at the bottom for ease of reference. I didn't do UOA's every single oil change, only when I felt like it. Still somewhat frequently.
Thanks, Lethal1ty17. I didn't see those.
^^
Look at the bottom. The most recent one I did was SuperTech Synthetic, the rest of them are labelled at the bottom for ease of reference. I didn't do UOA's every single oil change, only when I felt like it. Still somewhat frequently.
Thanks, Lethal1ty17. I didn't see those.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Supertech is GTL now? How did we miss that big news?
We only have data for Super Tech High-Mileage Synthetic 0W-20, not any other Super Tech oils.
This shouldn't be a surprise because GTL is widely available and cheap now. Mobil Super Synthetic 0W-20 is also mostly GTL, along with Genuine Nissan Motor Oil 0W-20 (best base oil tested), TGMO 0W-20 © 2015, etc.
Supertech is GTL now? How did we miss that big news?
We only have data for Super Tech High-Mileage Synthetic 0W-20, not any other Super Tech oils.
This shouldn't be a surprise because GTL is widely available and cheap now. Mobil Super Synthetic 0W-20 is also mostly GTL, along with Genuine Nissan Motor Oil 0W-20 (best base oil tested), TGMO 0W-20 © 2015, etc.
With 950 PH & 1050 Zinc that' not an SN PCMO Who know what's in that soup VERIFING a UOA in a Forum is trying @ best . I take these Postings as they are ? . My favorite Saint is Saint Thomas
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
We only have data for Super Tech High-Mileage Synthetic 0W-20, not any other Super Tech oils.
This shouldn't be a surprise because GTL is widely available and cheap now. Mobil Super Synthetic 0W-20 is also mostly GTL, along with Genuine Nissan Motor Oil 0W-20 (best base oil tested), TGMO 0W-20 © 2015, etc.
We know this for a fact ?
That they are GTL ?
How can the Nissan be better than TGMO when it's got a viscosity index similar to some C3 5W30s ?
We only have data for Super Tech High-Mileage Synthetic 0W-20, not any other Super Tech oils.
This shouldn't be a surprise because GTL is widely available and cheap now. Mobil Super Synthetic 0W-20 is also mostly GTL, along with Genuine Nissan Motor Oil 0W-20 (best base oil tested), TGMO 0W-20 © 2015, etc.
We know this for a fact ?
That they are GTL ?
How can the Nissan be better than TGMO when it's got a viscosity index similar to some C3 5W30s ?
It just is....because it's GTL...which is cheap and easily had...so much so that even Ray-Lube at .99 a quart is bathing in it...but the evidence of this apparently doesn't go past hearsay that's represented as a forgone conclusion. That's mostly due to cited parameters meaning whatever you want them to mean versus any specific acknowledgement by the producer...I think I got that right.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
We only have data for Super Tech High-Mileage Synthetic 0W-20, not any other Super Tech oils.
This shouldn't be a surprise because GTL is widely available and cheap now. Mobil Super Synthetic 0W-20 is also mostly GTL, along with Genuine Nissan Motor Oil 0W-20 (best base oil tested), TGMO 0W-20 © 2015, etc.
We know this for a fact ?
That they are GTL ?
How can the Nissan be better than TGMO when it's got a viscosity index similar to some C3 5W30s ?
In case of Genuine Nissan Motor Oil, it's verified by the MSDS.
In case of TGMO © 2015, Oil-Club Russia verified it by FTIR.
5W-30 typically uses more VII, therefore has a higher VI than 0W-20 for the given base-oil VI.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
We only have data for Super Tech High-Mileage Synthetic 0W-20, not any other Super Tech oils.
This shouldn't be a surprise because GTL is widely available and cheap now. Mobil Super Synthetic 0W-20 is also mostly GTL, along with Genuine Nissan Motor Oil 0W-20 (best base oil tested), TGMO 0W-20 © 2015, etc.
We know this for a fact ?
That they are GTL ?
How can the Nissan be better than TGMO when it's got a viscosity index similar to some C3 5W30s ?
In case of Genuine Nissan Motor Oil, it's verified by the MSDS.
In case of TGMO © 2015, Oil-Club Russia verified it by FTIR.
5W-30 typically uses more VII, therefore has a higher VI than 0W-20 for the given base-oil VI.
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Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
I've done a UOA with both M1 EP and Pennzoil Ultra. Though it was a few years ago and the formula has changed, the Pennzoil had much more aluminum wear.
From the viscosity increase, it looks like you may have had an oxidative oil failure with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP) with the long OCI you tried.
I would say next time try a dexos1 Gen 2 0W-20 instead of a 5W-20, as it tends to have a better base oil, which is more suitable for extended OCI's. The mostly GTL Super Tech High-Mileage 0W-20 is a great choice. Mobil 1 AFE, EP, and AP 0W-20 have even better base oils, a little higher TBN, except with the caveat of possibly somewhat higher iron number (valvetrain wear) because of some ester in base oil. If you don't have GDI, Genuine Nissan Motor Oil 0W-20 is also a great choice, with the best GTL formulation out there but no moly and Mg, available cheaply on eBay.
I have asked before why is PP not marketed for long OCI like Amsoil, Castrol, Mobil 1 etc …
Originally Posted By: Lethal1ty17
I've done a UOA with both M1 EP and Pennzoil Ultra. Though it was a few years ago and the formula has changed, the Pennzoil had much more aluminum wear.
From the viscosity increase, it looks like you may have had an oxidative oil failure with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum (PUP) with the long OCI you tried.
I would say next time try a dexos1 Gen 2 0W-20 instead of a 5W-20, as it tends to have a better base oil, which is more suitable for extended OCI's. The mostly GTL Super Tech High-Mileage 0W-20 is a great choice. Mobil 1 AFE, EP, and AP 0W-20 have even better base oils, a little higher TBN, except with the caveat of possibly somewhat higher iron number (valvetrain wear) because of some ester in base oil. If you don't have GDI, Genuine Nissan Motor Oil 0W-20 is also a great choice, with the best GTL formulation out there but no moly and Mg, available cheaply on eBay.
I have asked before why is PP not marketed for long OCI like Amsoil, Castrol, Mobil 1 etc …
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