Another interesting read

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https://www.redlineoil.com/red-line-gives-corvette-owners-tips-on-valvetrain-care

Was really impressed by this article and the compliment to Mobil 1 and Motul 300V. Guess I was right to choose Redline Oil but it also tells me that Motul would be a great substitute oil or one to use on the track. Gave me confidence to use M1 if I ran into a situation where I needed a quart or money was running tight.

I also found a post on GDI and forced induction for the Honda guys looking at new cars and oil. Looks like after the freebies I'm gonna run 0w30 Redline in the summer and 0w20 in the winter.
https://www.civicx.com/threads/1-5-turbo-answer-to-what-engine-oil-grades-are-allowed.11422/
 
From the article:
"... we think your own research will show that products like Red Line or Motul's 300V truly excel. Ester-based products like these can help your valve spring life by with improved heat transfer to the oil."


I'd like to see some controlled experimental data on that one.
 
Is valve spring life a very relevant issue in engine lubrication? I can´t see that a conventional oil wouldn´t cool it off too.
 
Uhf!
and it says:

"Remember that heavier oils take more time to get up to temperature-a motor oil's additive package is heat activated, so running around with cold temp means both wearing out the engine and isn't allowing the motor oil to trap contaminates. If you can't get the oil to 210f after serious operation, you need to look into running 30WT oils to avoid unnecessary wear and sludge. Also note that thicker oils trap temperatures, so pay attention to your oil temp gauge"...
 
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Originally Posted By: andyd
Are valve springs a wear item? I dont think I have ever replaced one in any engine of mine.


In track cars where the engine is near redline continuously, yes. otherwise: not so much.
 
Originally Posted By: Hammehead
Uhf!
and it says:

"Remember that heavier oils take more time to get up to temperature-a motor oil's additive package is heat activated, so running around with cold temp means both wearing out the engine and isn't allowing the motor oil to trap contaminates. If you can't get the oil to 210f after serious operation, you need to look into running 30WT oils to avoid unnecessary wear and sludge. Also note that thicker oils trap temperatures, so pay attention to your oil temp gauge"...


https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...ren#Post4830433
 
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