What are the odds. . .

[Robster]

. . .that my 15-year-old Tecumseh-powered snowblower with an estimated 100 total hours needs the valves adjusted? Last winter it really seemed like it wasn't making the usual power (bogged down in very little snow), started hard where normally it starts on one or two pulls.

So far, I've removed, cleaned and installed new parts in the carb (seat, needle, o-ring etc.) and it does run much smoother and seems to turn more RPMs than before. It still starts harder than it used to though. I've replaced the spark plug and the new one seems to indicate a "rich" condition (black, sooty deposits after running a few minutes).

Thoughts? Thanks in advance! --Rob

 

[kschachn]

Can you even adjust them? I'm not sure, my 18 year old Tecumseh powered thrower is working fine so far, I've never had an issue with the engine to be honest. I've rebuilt the thrower portion once but nothing with the engine.

 

[Boomer]

I have a 31 year old snowblower with an 8 hp Tecumseh engine. This blower has done an entire cul de sac plus three driveways for 21 years and a driveway and sidewalks on a corner lot for ten years. Still starts on one pull and has full power. Never did any work on the carb other than run some carb cleaner in the gas at the end of every season. Probably has 400-500 hours on it. Always used Mobil 1 5W-30 in it.

 

[old1]

Doesn't seem to likely that the valves would need adjusting, but I would have probably checked them while the carb was off for work. It is also possible that if it is building up carbon, that a small chunk got under a valve and is not letting it seal. If run very long like that, it will burn the valve.

 

[gregk24]

Do you normally crank it up this early? Just asking as a southerner.

 

[Robster]

Originally Posted By: gregk24
Do you normally crank it up this early? Just asking as a southerner.


Nope. . . in fact I never would consider cranking it up until late October, because I've never had an issue with it. After last winter, I vowed that I'd do some troubleshooting on it during good weather and try to sort out the issues.

I thought about checking the valves, but opted for the more likely carburetor problem--sounds like that was the right thing to do as many of you implied that the valves should be good with the low time it has. It's running better and seemingly at higher RPMs now, so I guess I'll cross my fingers and use it as is this winter. Thanks for the input guys!

 

[Robster]

UPDATE:

With the first storm we got in early November it was apparent that the engine was still not putting out rated power--it would stall out in just a few inches of fluffy snow. So, off to the repair shop it went. They said the valves were out of adjustment and fixed same. When I picked it up, it seemed to run better but sounded, how shall we say?. . . more "mechanical".

Last month we got a "blowable" amount of snow (a few inches) and the machine worked well--it seemed to make normal power and I was able to blow my yard and sidewalk as well as that of my neighbor. The problems started as I was doing another neighbor's driveway. I was clearing the discharge chute of some slush / ice and the engine was running--while pulling slush out of the chute I noticed the engine took on a different sound (more mechanical sounding) and then a few seconds later it stopped like it was turned off. That was the last time it ran.

Upon trying to restart it, I couldn't even turn the engine over with the pull start or electric starter. There was still oil in the sump, but it was just above the low mark on the stick (I'd started with the oil at the full mark). NOTE: I'd changed the oil when I got it back from the repair shop because I thought it looked "glittery", which I chocked up to them lapping the valves and just poking around in the engine--that should have been my first clue. Now the oil really looks glittery. . .

I took it back to the repair shop and upon examination they said the cylinder was heavily scored and said that it would likely need other major repair to get it working again. They refunded my money for the earlier work they'd done.

At this point I declared Tecumseh as "dead to me". I know I could have re-powered it, but after some research it seemed like that effort may have required more time / effort than I was willing to do with the limited time I had before real winter set in and the limited space I have in my garage for such an endeavor.

I ended up buying a new Troy-Bilt 2410 with a PowerMore 208cc engine and just used it for the first time today--what a nice-running machine! It starts on the first pull and did a great job on the wet snow I moved with it today. I did three driveways and sidewalks on less than one tank of fuel. The engine never really bogs down--the engine just changes tone briefly, the governor kicks in and it just keeps spitting the snow out.

I realize it's new and it should run strong at this point, but it exceeded my expectations for power for a budget-priced snowblower. No regrets.

Does anyone have any idea why the Tecumseh died such an early death? I changed the oil in that EVERY year in the spring--whatever caused the failure was definitely NOT oil-related--it died with fresh, if not glittery, oil in the sump.

 

[StevieC]

Sometimes you just get a dud. I've haven't seen problems with Tecumseh engines even the OHV designs. I currently have one of these in my lawnmower and it goes through deep grass every summer.

I suspect that if you had used Redline with high amounts of Moly it might have saved it.

All joking aside, sometimes it's just a dud. It happens. It's unfortunate but it happens. My 30 year old Toro Snow blower has a Tecumseh engine and it's still going.

 

[dwendt44]

I've read that the little scoop/spoon that flings oil around
on some Tecumseh flat heads was a weak point and would
break on rare occasions, seizing the engine from lack of oil.

My 2¢

 

[Robster]

. . .also, I always ran synthetic oil--usually 5w-30, but when it died it had SuperTech 10w-30 synthetic in the sump. I use the ST in my other OPE without issues and according to the manual, 10w-30 is OK at our local temps.

I agree, it had to be a fluke. I was / am conscious about warming up air-cooled OPE before putting them to work. My usual routine includes starting the snowblower and letting it run at low / mid RPMs while I put on my winter outerwear (usually about 5 minutes) before going full-throttle. I also run it at low RPMs (1-2 minutes) for a cool-down period rather than just shutting them off from full throttle.

 

[Delta]

I have an 8hp Techumseh on my Toro and even though it's a 2008 model it probably has less than 15 hours on it. Friend gave it to me in '15 after only using it once. After getting the carb working right (over 2 years to get it there, lol) the engine in mine works flawlessly and has plenty of power. I've used it so little it's still on the fill of Edge 0w30 from '15, and most of the time I don't even have to use the electric start it fires on the first pull. You more than likely got a dud. I've always had good luck with Tecumseh engines personally.

I can understand wanting a working snow blower though. You are located a little under an hour from me and winter seems to be in full force!

 

[supton]

I picked up a 1032 Ariens this summer with a 10hp Tecumseh motor, early 80's I think, still with points ignition. Got it to run but it ran poorly. FInally checked valve clearance and exhaust had none--a 0.002" feeler would not fit. Pulled the head and measured exhaust valve "wiggle" to test the guide, and found 0.022". I suspect the guide wore, allowing the valve to beat up the seat (seat recession?), which closed up the valve clearance, killed compression and that is what sent this blower to the transfer station (that and a dead electric starter). I'm not really sure how valve guides get oiled on a side valve motor, unless if it lifts oily fumes by vacuum.

I took a quick look into rebuilding but the valve guide isn't replaceable--could have it reamed oversized and a new one pressed in, but meh. Some searching reveals Tecumseh motors might be prone to snapping rods, not sure why.

Your engine may just have decided it was time. Random failure. Maybe the oil dipper broke off. Dunno.

 

[Whimsey]

Originally Posted by Robster
UPDATE:



I ended up buying a new Troy-Bilt 2410 with a PowerMore 208cc engine and just used it for the first time today--what a nice-running machine! It starts on the first pull and did a great job on the wet snow I moved with it today. I did three driveways and sidewalks on less than one tank of fuel. The engine never really bogs down--the engine just changes tone briefly, the governor kicks in and it just keeps spitting the snow out.

I realize it's new and it should run strong at this point, but it exceeded my expectations for power for a budget-priced snowblower. No regrets.



I have a 5 year old Troy-Bilt 2410 with the 179cc engine. Other than the carburetors getting mucked up, replacements are cheap on E-Bay, ~$13, with our wonderful NJ gas it's been a real good cheap snow blower for me. My rutty stone driveway is a very steep so the lighter weight Troy-Bilt works well for me since I'm not young anymore. I added an impeller kit I bought from E-Bay for around $35 and it REALLY improved the snow throwing ability, especially with wet snow. It was well worth the money.

Whimsey

 

[Robster]

Originally Posted by Whimsey
Originally Posted by Robster
UPDATE:



I ended up buying a new Troy-Bilt 2410 with a PowerMore 208cc engine and just used it for the first time today--what a nice-running machine! It starts on the first pull and did a great job on the wet snow I moved with it today. I did three driveways and sidewalks on less than one tank of fuel. The engine never really bogs down--the engine just changes tone briefly, the governor kicks in and it just keeps spitting the snow out.

I realize it's new and it should run strong at this point, but it exceeded my expectations for power for a budget-priced snowblower. No regrets.



I have a 5 year old Troy-Bilt 2410 with the 179cc engine. Other than the carburetors getting mucked up, replacements are cheap on E-Bay, ~$13, with our wonderful NJ gas it's been a real good cheap snow blower for me. My rutty stone driveway is a very steep so the lighter weight Troy-Bilt works well for me since I'm not young anymore. I added an impeller kit I bought from E-Bay for around $35 and it REALLY improved the snow throwing ability, especially with wet snow. It was well worth the money.

Whimsey



Thanks for the tip Whimsey. I contemplated getting a larger displacement blower, but the weights went up sharply with engine size and the 2410 weighs exactly the same as my old Murray, which is easy for me to move around. I plan on storing my blower with treated fuel in it during the spring / summer / fall seasons. How do you store yours? --Rob

 

[Whimsey]

Unfortunately I have not used Stabil but LC FP Plus, a fuel additive, I use for some of my vehicles, but I don't think it benefits in fuel storage life. For the first 2 years I stored them "wet", It was ok, then the carb "plugged" for the 3rd year. After that I ran the fuel tank dry BUT I didn't remove the carb drain plug and it clogged the replacement carbs for the next 2 years. This year I'm going to run Berrymans B-12 in the fuel tank and DRAIN the carb after I run the fuel tank dry. I have "dirty" 2 carbs that I'll clean this Spring/Summer to have as "spares" if I need them

. These OPE carbs have such small passages that they can plug easily with a little dirt or old ethanol fuel.

Whimsey

 

[JTK]

I've seen some 40yr/old Tecumseh snow engines chugging along, with probably never having valve clearance checked, but like said, it's a case by case thing. Who knows.

I do love the 7hp Tecumseh OHV on my Yardman/MTD snowblower. It's 20yrs old. All original carb parts even. It's a twin shaft model though, so when it goes, it goes. This is why it's been my backup machine for the past 3yrs or so.