'18 Kawasaki Z650 - Oil recommendations

[dgunay]

Hey fellas,

I have put about 200 miles this weekend with my new Z650. It's been great so far. Dealer told me to come back around 500-600 miles for a break-in service. I've got some questions before booking an appointment in two weeks. I am kind of new to the motorcycle world, so please bear with me.

1) Should I change the oil really early myself (today?) and go back to dealer for another oil change at 600 miles or is it overkill?
2) Should I bring my oil to the dealer or just let them do the whole work (for warranty purposes)?
3) Going forward, which oil would you recommend for a 650cc parallel twin? Synthetic or mineral? Planning to do 3k OCI. I can get my hands on Rotella T5 or T6 easiest, but would you recommend going with boutique oil like Motul?
4) Do you guys use OEM oil filters only? I've seen there are some aftermarket options like Wix / K&N. Are they any better than OE filters?

Owner's manual says use API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2. Kawasaki recommends 10w40 but they also allow users to use different viscosity according to the manual. So I look forward to hearing your experience and opinions.

Thanks in advance.

Dan

 

[Analyzer]

Originally Posted By: dgunay
Hey fellas,

I have put about 200 miles this weekend with my new Z650. It's been great so far. Dealer told me to come back around 500-600 miles for a break-in service. I've got some questions before booking an appointment in two weeks. I am kind of new to the motorcycle world, so please bear with me.

1) Should I change the oil really early myself (today?) and go back to dealer for another oil change at 600 miles or is it overkill?
2) Should I bring my oil to the dealer or just let them do the whole work (for warranty purposes)?
3) Going forward, which oil would you recommend for a 650cc parallel twin? Synthetic or mineral? Planning to do 3k OCI. I can get my hands on Rotella T5 or T6 easiest, but would you recommend going with boutique oil like Motul?
4) Do you guys use OEM oil filters only? I've seen there are some aftermarket options like Wix / K&N. Are they any better than OE filters?

Owner's manual says use API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2. Kawasaki recommends 10w40 but they also allow users to use different viscosity according to the manual. So I look forward to hearing your experience and opinions.

Thanks in advance.

Dan


Congrats on the purchase of an awesome bike, and all your questions make total sense and we’ve all asked them at one point or another.

1) I wouldn’t bother changing it before your break in service at 600 miles. Some people might feel different, but if the manufacturer said to keep the original oil fill in for 4-5000 miles, then I personally would change it before then. I managed the parts and service department of a large motorcycle dealer and never found any issues with the recommended 600 mile oil drain.
2) you can bring whatever oil you’d like to use, especially if you’d like to go to any particular synthetic oil. They will use whatever bulk oil they have on hand for the oil change (probably either Kawasaki 10W40, or another reputable oil brand they found at a competitive price)
3) if you are performing your oil change intervals at 3000 miles, I’d recommend Shell Rotella 15W40, or Valvoline motorcycle oil (10W40) as they both claim to meet the JASO MA certification and are priced well for 3000 mile intervals.
4) K&N have had quality control issues in their powersports filters since they went to China to have them manufactured. OEM are great, but generally overpriced. I would generally recommend HiFlo, Wix, or OEM filters, but there are other reputable brands out there as well to choose from.

Good luck to you and let us know if u have any other questions!

 

[beanoil]

Factory fill until 500.
Let the dealer do it the first time and quiz the mechanic about their products, and any suggestions. I only say this because you admit to being new to the MC experience.
I like Valvoline oils, as well as Amalie. Amalie has a decent web store and free shipping on cases. Works out to be about 4.00 a quart.
HiFlo is a good filter, and fairly priced. I think you need an HF303.

 

[DdDd]

Make sure you use the "fast break in" method to seal the oil rings. Follow the manual, but use BRIEF bursts of max throttle to apply full pressure to the rings and get them seated. Never had an engine consume oil using this method. Years ago this was controversial but now some OEMs actually recommend this in their owner manuals.

Change the oil at 700-800 miles. Keep it in for enough time to finish bedding in the bits yet don't wait until the first "normal" oil change interval. On every new motor I've cut open the filter and found some metal. The second filter is always clean.

"Break-in service" -- excuse to charge another $200-400. I always do my own maintenance. No hired wrench is going to treat your pride and joy as well as you would, plus it's not like oil changes are all that difficult. On a new bike that's all you really need to do until a valve adjustment. If you're adventurous a service manual will spell out how to do a valve adjustment and you'll likely finish the job sooner than the dealer would to boot! With the thousands you save you can basically have a new bike come trade in.

Warranty? It's Japanese. You probably won't need it for anything. Seriously I have never heard of anyone blowing up a motor unless they crashed it to pieces or abused it terribly. Obviously if you notice something bring it in!

Never bought moto specific oil or filters. I use a 40 weight oil, usually Rotella T6 or Delvac1 synthetic. The Delvac is $27/gal with $12 rebate and Rotella sometimes offers a few bucks back. Synthetic oil changed on time = win.

Your Kawasaki takes the "old standard" can filter they put on every single Japanese/European motorcycle. I use a car one, Fram Ultra XG6607 or Purolator 14612. In the Puro you can do Boss (PBL) or PureOne (PL). The Boss and Fram are full synthetic media with reinforcement that is miles beyond what the OEM or moto specific filters offer. And they're cheaper too.

I have ridden my bikes up to 30k miles before selling. Never once had clutch slip or other maladies from this "car parts" approach. People will argue differently, but hey what do I know...

 

[dgunay]

Thanks for all input.

Good to hear that I can use car oil filters, as I have several M1-110, Fram XG7317 and Wix 57356 in my stash.

I like to do my car's maintenance which includes valve adjustment etc. but I just don't want to take risk on a motorcycle until warranty expires, which is only 1 year. We have different laws up here, so DIY maintenance and warranty claims/laws are kind of gray zone (applicable to all vehicles). Valve adjustments are every 15k miles according to the manual.

In regards to the fast break in, I try to apply 70% throttle on 2nd and 3rd gear frequently when the engine is hot, like short-term acceleration up to 7-8k rpm and let the engine brake down to 3k rpm to get the rings seated. Manual says take it easy in the first 400 miles and gradually increase rpms until 800 miles. I still do not feel comfortable max throttle in the first gear as a new rider. I need some time to get used to it.

 

[Jim K]

I have a 2017 Kawasaki Versys LT 650 . I changed at 300 miles and again at 600 miles along with cleaning and lubing and adjusting the chain. When I went to the dealer I told the owner what I did and he said I didn`t need to bother with making the 600 mile service appointment. I used some cheaper oils on the first 2 changes and I am on my third change now and used Amsoil 10w-40 mc oil . With this bike I don`t mind buying the expensive Amsoil because I only need 2 quarts on a change.

 

[dgunay]

Originally Posted By: Jimkobb
I have a 2017 Kawasaki Versys LT 650 . I changed at 300 miles and again at 600 miles along with cleaning and lubing and adjusting the chain. When I went to the dealer I told the owner what I did and he said I didn`t need to bother with making the 600 mile service appointment. I used some cheaper oils on the first 2 changes and I am on my third change now and used Amsoil 10w-40 mc oil . With this bike I don`t mind buying the expensive Amsoil because I only need 2 quarts on a change.


Versys is a really nice bike, actually V-Strom or Versys will be my next bike. I kind of hesitated to buy them as a first motorcycle, since they are significantly heavier than naked bikes.

I lubed the chain at 180 miles, because I had to ride in a thunderstorm and chain was soaking wet.

 

[dgunay]

I've just got Rotella T4 15w40 5L jug. It's going to be good at least for the next two oil changes. I think that mineral oil is better for the rings during the break in period that's why I didn't go with T6.

After I completely use the T4, I am going to switch to Rotella T6 5w40.

Thanks for all input.

 

[Lawn_Care]

Originally Posted By: DdDd
Your Kawasaki takes the "old standard" can filter they put on every single Japanese/European motorcycle. I use a car one, Fram Ultra XG6607 or Purolator 14612. In the Puro you can do Boss (PBL) or PureOne (PL). The Boss and Fram are full synthetic media with reinforcement that is miles beyond what the OEM or moto specific filters offer. And they're cheaper too.

I have ridden my bikes up to 30k miles before selling. Never once had clutch slip or other maladies from this "car parts" approach. People will argue differently, but hey what do I know...


Just like using a FRAM oil filter and Rotella 15w40 in my Zero-turn. Cheaper and better filters than OEM, and Rotella is perfect for that engine, and the Kawasaki on my mower.

 

[alarmguy]

Originally Posted By: dgunay
Hey fellas,

I have put about 200 miles this weekend with my new Z650. It's been great so far. Dealer told me to come back around 500-600 miles for a break-in service. I've got some questions before booking an appointment in two weeks. I am kind of new to the motorcycle world, so please bear with me.

1) Should I change the oil really early myself (today?) and go back to dealer for another oil change at 600 miles or is it overkill?
2) Should I bring my oil to the dealer or just let them do the whole work (for warranty purposes)?
3) Going forward, which oil would you recommend for a 650cc parallel twin? Synthetic or mineral? Planning to do 3k OCI. I can get my hands on Rotella T5 or T6 easiest, but would you recommend going with boutique oil like Motul?
4) Do you guys use OEM oil filters only? I've seen there are some aftermarket options like Wix / K&N. Are they any better than OE filters?

Owner's manual says use API SG, SH, SJ, SL or SM with JASO MA, MA1 or MA2. Kawasaki recommends 10w40 but they also allow users to use different viscosity according to the manual. So I look forward to hearing your experience and opinions.

Thanks in advance.

Dan


1. Overkill but wont hurt anything.

2. Its up to you, if you want to pick out your own oil, sure bring it.

3. Synthetic or mineral, doesnt matter and I am definitely against expensive/Exotic oils, there is nothing magical about oil and I would much prefer any Castrol or VALVOLINE motorcycle oil. Syn or Conventional, even Rotella, whatever floats your boat but use the proper weight.

4. Use OEM OR the proper MOTORCYCLE oil filter from Hi-Flo or EMGO, all 3 are high quality with the proper bypass pressure for a motorcycle,

 

[troop]

Keep all your receipts for oils/filters/etc while your bike is under warranty..

 

[dgunay]

Here is an update:

I have put about 500 miles, had to adjust chain slack 100 miles ago. I guess that's normal for a new chain? It was the first time I officially worked on a motorcycle, but it was easier than I thought.

I was planning to take the bike to a dealer for the first service, but found that all dealers around Southern Ontario charges around $200-300 for basically oil change and checking few bolts/nuts. I sent an e-mail to Kawasaki Canada to confirm if I really need to take my bike to a dealer. Here is what they said.

Quote:
Thank you for contacting Kawasaki, sorry we missed your call.

We already recommend getting the unit serviced at a dealership, as they're the authorised technicians.

You can change the oil/filter yourself if you choose to do so. Please keep in mind, that if done improperly, it could void your warranty if traced back to the service you completed.


So as long as I keep all invoice/paperwork and do the maintenance properly, it shouldn't void the warranty. Instead of paying $200-250 to a dealer, decided to change oil myself and got the required parts from Kawasaki dealer.