Would it be safe to use 20w-50 in my lawnmower this summer temps usually in the 90's. Air cooled 6hp briggs or how about 10w-40 or 15w-40?
20w50 for lawn eqiupment
- Thread starter goodoleboy
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In a nutshell, the answer is yes.
Chris
Chris
It will work but you are better off using 30 wt dino oil. Multi viscosity oils will burn off more than a straight weight. Get a quart of 30 wt rotella. Its diesel oil so it has all the goodies a diesel needs and it will keep your engine clean. If you go with syn then use a 5/30 weight. Iam connected with a major small engine distributor and i talk to the techs from time to time. Briggs engines require a thin lubricant to protect the engine components and produce maximum power. What series is your engine?
I know it's a B&S, and they last about forever on whatever oil you use, but for maximum protection, I'd strongly advise against a PCEO straight-30 or 10w-40.
No to the 20w-50 as well...PCEO additive package and characteristics as well as highly reduced flow.
Yes to either a HDEO SAE-30 or HDEO 15w-40.
At this moment, I exclusively run Pennzoil Long-Life 15w-40 in the high-hour ag. engine equipment I service for maximum protection and minimal oil consumption.
Not saying it's a set in stone rule, but I've had consumption issues in the past using 30-weight oils in Briggs engines, and making the switch to Long-Life cured them (significantly reduced) every time.
PCEO - Passenger Car Engine Oil - Your "standard" oils, such as 5w-30/10w-30/10w-40/20w-50/SAE-30.
HDEO - Heavy-Duty Engine Oil - Commonly referred to as diesel oil, and commonly available in 15w-40 and SAE30 grades.
[ February 18, 2004, 11:58 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
I'm another fan of the many excellent 15W40 oils out there right now. I've got a supply of Schaeffer 15W40 which will last me a while and I run this in all my 1 & 2 cylinder equipment. But if I had to pick an off-the-shelf oil, it would be Pennzoil Long life ... then Chevron Delo400 running second. Moly content makes me favor the Pennzoil.
Can the fans of 20W50 make a credible case for why it might be better to run this stuff instead of a 15W40 for a given application?
I believe it is less stable (more VII) and most engines simply don't need that last degree of extra thickness ... especially when they call for a straight 30 or 10W30.
--- Bror Jace
Can the fans of 20W50 make a credible case for why it might be better to run this stuff instead of a 15W40 for a given application?
I believe it is less stable (more VII) and most engines simply don't need that last degree of extra thickness ... especially when they call for a straight 30 or 10W30.
--- Bror Jace
Run a xw-30, friction modified synthetic like Mobil 1, Redline, Amsoil, RP,Synergyn, etc ...the engine will run much cooler and you will get more power and/or fuel efficiency out of it....
About two hours after I converted my 11 hp B & S engine to the Series 2000, 0w-30, it was idling so fast I had to turn the idle speed screw in almost a full turn - that's all free horsepower. The interesting thing is that I was already running the Amsoil 10w-30 synthetic in this engine and had been for years ....To say the least, I was very surprised. If you are using the S2000 in your car/truck engine already, try it in a small, air cooled motor.
If somebody uses this Mobil 1R or Redline 5w-30 in a small mower or lawn tractor engine, I'm willing to bet they will see exactly the same thing! These small, air cooled engines show much more significant power gains with friction modified, PAO/Ester synlubes than do automotive engines ....You're not saving ANY money running petroleum oils in these applications. In fact, even if you use conventional oils in your vehicles, I strongly suggest you consider running a PAO/Ester synthetic in all your four stroke, lawn/garden equipment engines. You'll notice the difference right away ....
Tooslick
Dixie Synthetics
About two hours after I converted my 11 hp B & S engine to the Series 2000, 0w-30, it was idling so fast I had to turn the idle speed screw in almost a full turn - that's all free horsepower. The interesting thing is that I was already running the Amsoil 10w-30 synthetic in this engine and had been for years ....To say the least, I was very surprised. If you are using the S2000 in your car/truck engine already, try it in a small, air cooled motor.
If somebody uses this Mobil 1R or Redline 5w-30 in a small mower or lawn tractor engine, I'm willing to bet they will see exactly the same thing! These small, air cooled engines show much more significant power gains with friction modified, PAO/Ester synlubes than do automotive engines ....You're not saving ANY money running petroleum oils in these applications. In fact, even if you use conventional oils in your vehicles, I strongly suggest you consider running a PAO/Ester synthetic in all your four stroke, lawn/garden equipment engines. You'll notice the difference right away ....
Tooslick
Dixie Synthetics
I could not agree more with TooSlick and to add you will notice on especially these engines without oil filters the engine oil stays much cleaner longer due to better ring seal and the resistance to both low and hi temp oxidation . Bore polishing will be minimized as well .
I've used my IR Gun for my own testing and same day testing was very revealing as to the drop in oil temps between the same cSt dino and a PAO/Ester synlube .
[ February 19, 2004, 11:52 AM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
I've used my IR Gun for my own testing and same day testing was very revealing as to the drop in oil temps between the same cSt dino and a PAO/Ester synlube .
[ February 19, 2004, 11:52 AM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
What kind of temperature diff's were you seeing.
MolaKule
Staff member
About two years ago in June, I ran my own NONSCIENTIFIC test on L&G stuff around the house all with 4-stroke engines; engines were B&S and Kohler, up to to 23 Hp. I measured head temps and subjective response to acceleration and engine noise. All engine crankcases were cleaned with LC/Neutra mix before oil was added.
In terms of the above, on a rating of 1-5, with 5 being best, here are my results averaged over all engines, FWIW:
A. Mobil 1 SS 5W30 - 3 (Plenty of RPM and response, but engines sounded too loose - knocking noise heard on some engines after warrm-up, temps were low)
B. Amsoil Synthetic ATM 10W30 - 4 (Engines Sound Better, temps were only slightly higher; temperature statistiscally the same as A.)
C. Chevron Supreme 10W30 - Same results as B.
D. Schaeffer's 15W40 - 5 - Engines sounded about right, throttle response very good, temps were statistically lower than with B or C.
E. Mobil 1 SS 15W50 - 2 - Engines seemed robbed of power and had lack of response; head temps were 30 F higher than 10W30's.
F. Amsoil 20W50 Racing Oil - 2.5 - Engines still seemed robbed of power and response, but not as bad as E. Head temp was about 5 F lower than in E.
My conclusion (at that time) was that a quality multiviscosity oil of SAE 30 to SAE 40 weight is about the right oil weight bracket for L&G engines, with anything over 15W40 showing higher head temps and loss of Hp due to internal oil friction, or what I call, "viscous friction."
[ February 21, 2004, 02:03 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
In terms of the above, on a rating of 1-5, with 5 being best, here are my results averaged over all engines, FWIW:
A. Mobil 1 SS 5W30 - 3 (Plenty of RPM and response, but engines sounded too loose - knocking noise heard on some engines after warrm-up, temps were low)
B. Amsoil Synthetic ATM 10W30 - 4 (Engines Sound Better, temps were only slightly higher; temperature statistiscally the same as A.)
C. Chevron Supreme 10W30 - Same results as B.
D. Schaeffer's 15W40 - 5 - Engines sounded about right, throttle response very good, temps were statistically lower than with B or C.
E. Mobil 1 SS 15W50 - 2 - Engines seemed robbed of power and had lack of response; head temps were 30 F higher than 10W30's.
F. Amsoil 20W50 Racing Oil - 2.5 - Engines still seemed robbed of power and response, but not as bad as E. Head temp was about 5 F lower than in E.
My conclusion (at that time) was that a quality multiviscosity oil of SAE 30 to SAE 40 weight is about the right oil weight bracket for L&G engines, with anything over 15W40 showing higher head temps and loss of Hp due to internal oil friction, or what I call, "viscous friction."
[ February 21, 2004, 02:03 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
"D. Schaeffer's 15W40 - 5 - Engines sounded about right, throttle response very good, temps were statistically lower than with B or C.
My conclusion (at that time) was that a quality multiviscosity oil of SAE 30 to SAE 40 weight is about the right oil weight bracket for L&G engines, with anything over 15W40 showing higher head temps and loss of Hp due to internal oil friction, or what I call, 'viscous friction.'"
Thanks for the analysis Kulasaurus! Your results not only answer my question but also back-up my 1st choice for lawn & garden equipment.
--- Bror Jace
My conclusion (at that time) was that a quality multiviscosity oil of SAE 30 to SAE 40 weight is about the right oil weight bracket for L&G engines, with anything over 15W40 showing higher head temps and loss of Hp due to internal oil friction, or what I call, 'viscous friction.'"
Thanks for the analysis Kulasaurus! Your results not only answer my question but also back-up my 1st choice for lawn & garden equipment.
--- Bror Jace
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