Rockauto Caliper Cores

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I'm going to be buying calipers for my F-350 again. Pistons have seized up.

Rockauto has the best prices. I'm in the middle of a cash only home renovation so i'm trying to save money as much as possible.

Rockauto, if I don't get the cores back is the same price as the local auto stores *IF* I get the cores back. Price will be half of the auto stores with a returned core if I return the core to RockAuto.

Has anyone had any luck returning cores to Rockauto? I'm assuming since I'm shipping something I Should make sure to get all of the fluid out before shipping back.
 
I have never had to ship anything back to RockAuto, but I've had great luck with them in terms of everything else. I'd say get as much fluid out as you can, but after you've done that, put them in a properly sealed container (maybe a ziploc freezer back or two), taped closed, and ship it in that, with extra padding, to be sure.
 
Yes, I do it all the time. Request a return label from them and the shipping cost is usually minimal.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Yes, I do it all the time. Request a return label from them and the shipping cost is usually minimal.


Is that something I can do from the web or do I have to call them / request after?

I'm getting tired of having to hammer on the LF caliper after a hard stop
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Yes, I do it all the time. Request a return label from them and the shipping cost is usually minimal.


Is that something I can do from the web or do I have to call them / request after?

I'm getting tired of having to hammer on the LF caliper after a hard stop


Once the order has been delivered, you can go to the orders/return page and set-up a core return. This is an example of one I recently completed:

 
You wanna save some money? Take the caliper apart by taking it off its bracket and leave it attached to the hose. Slowly pump the brake until the piston is almost out. Then take caliper off.
You may be able to tie the end of the hose up so it is above the MC so it wont drip. I gently pull the piston out after I have removed the dust boot. The piston in the ATE caliper is chrome plated and will rust. You're s'posed to replace if pitted. I use a fine file to feather out any pits. So far so good. The bore of a caliper can take some pitting as well. The seal is an O-ring at the top of the bore. Clean the crud out and make sure the bleeder is clear. Re- assembly goes better if Sil Glyde is used on the piston and the boot. I use a 6" C clamp and a hammer. I use the hammer to tap the side of the caliper to keep the piston from jamming. My las couple calipers, I dispensed with the clamp and use the end of the hammer to tap the piston in and the hammer to tap it straight
 
For rebuilt/reman parts, I like to get them at a regular parts store from their online sites (for example, buy from autozone.com and return the core to the autozone store). When I need calipers, I usually go for Napa Eclipse.

When you return a used core to Rock Auto, shipping is not included. You have to pay for the return shipping.

Regardless, get something that is coated, to stop the rust. Like Napa Eclipse or Cardone Ultra. The Powerstop calipers are also cool because they are painted red and look snazzy
smile.gif


Raybestos only makes the Opti-Cal for the rear on your F350. Otherwise, that would be the way to go. The Opti-Cal is a brand new caliper, not reman.
 
I would keep the cores and try to rebuild them yourself or take them somewhere to get them rebuilt, especially if they are the original calipers.
 
I used to rebuild them my self, but the rear calipers can be a pain with the parking brake stuff. I have been just buying them local. Then I just return the cores local again.

I think Rock Auto needs to get their rears in gear, and make a program to be competitive on cores. At least make you feel like they are offering an olive branch. I just don't feel it is worth it on the core return. Especially if you have a problem with the rebuilt caliper from Rock. With local purchase you just go back to the store.

I might start rebuilding some if the core value is not very high. Or if I become poor again. But have not done that in a real long time.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
You have to pay for the return shipping with a core return?


Correct


Very interesting.. That's a lot of iron to be shipping.
eek.gif
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
You wanna save some money? Take the caliper apart by taking it off its bracket and leave it attached to the hose. Slowly pump the brake until the piston is almost out. Then take caliper off.
You may be able to tie the end of the hose up so it is above the MC so it wont drip. I gently pull the piston out after I have removed the dust boot. The piston in the ATE caliper is chrome plated and will rust. You're s'posed to replace if pitted. I use a fine file to feather out any pits. So far so good. The bore of a caliper can take some pitting as well. The seal is an O-ring at the top of the bore. Clean the crud out and make sure the bleeder is clear. Re- assembly goes better if Sil Glyde is used on the piston and the boot. I use a 6" C clamp and a hammer. I use the hammer to tap the side of the caliper to keep the piston from jamming. My las couple calipers, I dispensed with the clamp and use the end of the hammer to tap the piston in and the hammer to tap it straight


I recall Trav pointing out a substance called red rubber grease. Meant to go into applications like this. I wonder if packing some in there would work to prevent rust (on a new reman/rebuild).
 
I recently bought an alternator for our 2005 Explorer and RA was by far the cheapest for a quality brand unit. They will provide you with a FEDEX prepaid return label upon ordering. I believe it cost only $10, which was less than what it cost the alternator to ship initially. I had to drop the core at a FedEx authorized shipping location.

Whimsey
 
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I used to rebuild them my self, but the rear calipers can be a pain with the parking brake stuff. I have been just buying them local. Then I just return the cores local again.

I think Rock Auto needs to get their rears in gear, and make a program to be competitive on cores. At least make you feel like they are offering an olive branch. I just don't feel it is worth it on the core return. Especially if you have a problem with the rebuilt caliper from Rock. With local purchase you just go back to the store.

I might start rebuilding some if the core value is not very high. Or if I become poor again. But have not done that in a real long time.


They are still significantly cheaper than getting them at Advance / Autozone / Napa. I could ship them back in a flat rate box and if it dosen't make it, the price is still the same.



Originally Posted By: Gito
I would keep the cores and try to rebuild them yourself or take them somewhere to get them rebuilt, especially if they are the original calipers.


They aren't, unfortunately. It's the 5th or 6th set of front calipers on this truck. It's been infrequently used its entire life so they only last 1 or 2 years .

If I had time to, I would love to rebuild them myself.
 
Last rebuilt calipers I bought were from Autozone for the Rat. The cores knocked 6$ from the 25$ price. I couldn't get the bleeders loose. They started to shear. Had I succeeded, I would have done my fix. And every 2 yrs, coincidently, is the interval for a flush of the system on a BMW. Just more PM.
grin2.gif
 
The calipers at Rockauto are $36 a piece with a $36 core.

The calipers at auto parts stores start at $140 locally from what I'm setting.

Calipers for my Cherokee are crazy cheap.
 
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