2005 Ford Escape engine replacement work V-6

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Hi guys, and gals

Bought an Escape with a bad motor last year. I bought a replacement engine from a wrecking yard with 55K miles not long after. Because the motor is about 13 years old, I will be replacing front and rear seals, and pan gasket, maybe valve covers for sure. Then I started thinking maybe pull the timing cover and check/replace timing chains, maybe replace valve stems seals, maybe replace head gaskets.....thinking crazy thoughts I know.

I figure the engine will be a nightmare to work on the timing cover while it is in the car in the future. The valve cover needs to come off to remove timing cover. The wrecking yard pulled the pan to inspect it for putting it up for sale. So that would need to be done at a absolute minimum. The engine with the pan off looks real clean inside, the coolant that came out of the motor looked clean as well.

I still have not removed the old motor. So I have a lot to do. I'm pretty capable, but I'm trying to rationalize the best course of action without tearing the engine totally down.


Looking for objective opinions Thanks Pat

2nd picture is a Vulcan motor, not a Duratech

Link:

http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/engine-series-a-decade-of-the-duratec-30/
 
I had one of these that developed a front cover leak and yes, it is difficult to repair while the engine is in the car. Iirc, the dealer cost estimate was $1,300 or so. I dealt with the leak with a Liqui-Moly product, but I’d absolutely recommend doing the front cover seal before installation.
 
Most engine work is much easier with the engine outside the car than in it. Especially a transverse V6. Do everything you know how to do on it before installing
thumbsup2.gif


Also install new fuel injectors and spark plugs. Use NGK Laser Iridium
 
Best to rinse off the exposed bottom end and oil it. Oil on exposed parts attracts dust and dirt. With only 55K and if all looks dry now I personally wouldn't try to improve it. I had a 95 Windstar which had some leaks, later after 2001 I think, Ford improved the seals and even claimed 150K life. So are you going to make it better than Ford, or worse is the question.
 
Reseal as much as you can with the "new" engine on a stand/cart. Timing cover and oil pan gasket leaks are common. There is an updated oil pan that supposedly is more resistant to the drain plug stripping out. The new pan from Ford comes with the o-ring gasket and hardware already installed.
 
I'd certainly get the valve cover gaskets and the plugs and wires (if it has those) while it's out. If it has a PVC and is in the back of the engine or under stuff, get a genuine Ford and do that as well.
 
Do the timing cover. On those 3.0 duratec engines it is a matter of when they will start leaking not if they will. I did the cover on our old 03 Escape with the engine in the car, it would have been 10 times easier on a stand.
 
Definitely do the front cover seal, too. My 2007 Escape 3.0 started leaking at about 140k, have tried different products to dry it up, haven't found one yet. My mechanic who does work on the side doesn't really want to touch it. Am looking for recommendations for drying up the timing cover seal, though. Have tried AT205 but only slows it down. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Most engine work is much easier with the engine outside the car than in it. Especially a transverse V6. Do everything you know how to do on it before installing
thumbsup2.gif


Also install new fuel injectors and spark plugs. Use NGK Laser Iridium

I can't think of any engine work being easier with the engine in the car.
 
I have 1300 in the vehicle, and about 1200 in the engine. I bought some rear air bags for future boat towing. My crazy thoughts are pull the heads, and do the valve seals/head gaskets as well...... But my reasonable thoughts are re-seal valve covers, front/rear seals, timing cover, timing chains/parts.
 
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