Since this is a truck and you tow the Akebono is likely not the best option. I would either go with Wagner ThermoQuiet or Semi Metallic. Much harder pads and both are better for towing.
Rotors already shot on our F-150 Ecoboost. 40k.
- Thread starter Blaze
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Originally Posted By: Chris142
The rotors on my jeep were warped @6k. Dealer resurfaced them and they were warped again by 11k. I replaced them with autozone gold pads and auto zone rotors. These lasted 90k!
Sad that AutoZone rotors lasted much longer than factory parts.
The rotors on my jeep were warped @6k. Dealer resurfaced them and they were warped again by 11k. I replaced them with autozone gold pads and auto zone rotors. These lasted 90k!
Sad that AutoZone rotors lasted much longer than factory parts.
Originally Posted By: FordBroncoVWJeta
Originally Posted By: totegoat
Downshifting will help brakes last longer.
I'd personally would rather change brakes and rotors than clutches. One is a lot easier/cheaper.
I've owned several manual trans, towed with them in mountains, always downshifted to keep the brakes from getting hot, and never had to replace a clutch on any of them.
Originally Posted By: totegoat
Downshifting will help brakes last longer.
I'd personally would rather change brakes and rotors than clutches. One is a lot easier/cheaper.
I've owned several manual trans, towed with them in mountains, always downshifted to keep the brakes from getting hot, and never had to replace a clutch on any of them.
Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The rotors on my jeep were warped @6k. Dealer resurfaced them and they were warped again by 11k. I replaced them with autozone gold pads and auto zone rotors. These lasted 90k!
Sad that AutoZone rotors lasted much longer than factory parts.
He also changed the pad, usually braking vibration is a pad problem.
Blaze
Check out StopTech Sport Pads, for your truck it should be 309.14140 for the fronts, these will dust but will handle the heat from towing and have great initial bite. For Rotors I like Centric blanks.
Rockauto has em both http://www.rockauto.com/xx/cart/?cartid=096ca1e25946a8e26b8971192aa306d1
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The rotors on my jeep were warped @6k. Dealer resurfaced them and they were warped again by 11k. I replaced them with autozone gold pads and auto zone rotors. These lasted 90k!
Sad that AutoZone rotors lasted much longer than factory parts.
He also changed the pad, usually braking vibration is a pad problem.
Blaze
Check out StopTech Sport Pads, for your truck it should be 309.14140 for the fronts, these will dust but will handle the heat from towing and have great initial bite. For Rotors I like Centric blanks.
Rockauto has em both http://www.rockauto.com/xx/cart/?cartid=096ca1e25946a8e26b8971192aa306d1
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Originally Posted By: thescreensavers
Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The rotors on my jeep were warped @6k. Dealer resurfaced them and they were warped again by 11k. I replaced them with autozone gold pads and auto zone rotors. These lasted 90k!
Sad that AutoZone rotors lasted much longer than factory parts.
He also changed the pad, usually braking vibration is a pad problem.
Blaze
Check out StopTech Sport Pads, for your truck it should be 309.14140 for the fronts, these will dust but will handle the heat from towing and have great initial bite. For Rotors I like Centric blanks.
Rockauto has em both http://www.rockauto.com/xx/cart/?cartid=096ca1e25946a8e26b8971192aa306d1
Thanks, now I'm confused on rotors? Solid over slotted for trucks and towing?
Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The rotors on my jeep were warped @6k. Dealer resurfaced them and they were warped again by 11k. I replaced them with autozone gold pads and auto zone rotors. These lasted 90k!
Sad that AutoZone rotors lasted much longer than factory parts.
He also changed the pad, usually braking vibration is a pad problem.
Blaze
Check out StopTech Sport Pads, for your truck it should be 309.14140 for the fronts, these will dust but will handle the heat from towing and have great initial bite. For Rotors I like Centric blanks.
Rockauto has em both http://www.rockauto.com/xx/cart/?cartid=096ca1e25946a8e26b8971192aa306d1
Thanks, now I'm confused on rotors? Solid over slotted for trucks and towing?
Originally Posted By: Blaze
Originally Posted By: thescreensavers
Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The rotors on my jeep were warped @6k. Dealer resurfaced them and they were warped again by 11k. I replaced them with autozone gold pads and auto zone rotors. These lasted 90k!
Sad that AutoZone rotors lasted much longer than factory parts.
He also changed the pad, usually braking vibration is a pad problem.
Blaze
Check out StopTech Sport Pads, for your truck it should be 309.14140 for the fronts, these will dust but will handle the heat from towing and have great initial bite. For Rotors I like Centric blanks.
Rockauto has em both http://www.rockauto.com/xx/cart/?cartid=096ca1e25946a8e26b8971192aa306d1
Thanks, now I'm confused on rotors? Solid over slotted for trucks and towing?
You want solid, OEM comes solid.
Slotted looks cooler so that's why people buy it, for racing it might be worthwhile but on the street/towing nah the pad is more important. Slotting could cause noise and will reduce brake pad life.
If you want to buy slotted you can but will likely notice nothing.
Originally Posted By: thescreensavers
Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
Originally Posted By: Chris142
The rotors on my jeep were warped @6k. Dealer resurfaced them and they were warped again by 11k. I replaced them with autozone gold pads and auto zone rotors. These lasted 90k!
Sad that AutoZone rotors lasted much longer than factory parts.
He also changed the pad, usually braking vibration is a pad problem.
Blaze
Check out StopTech Sport Pads, for your truck it should be 309.14140 for the fronts, these will dust but will handle the heat from towing and have great initial bite. For Rotors I like Centric blanks.
Rockauto has em both http://www.rockauto.com/xx/cart/?cartid=096ca1e25946a8e26b8971192aa306d1
Thanks, now I'm confused on rotors? Solid over slotted for trucks and towing?
You want solid, OEM comes solid.
Slotted looks cooler so that's why people buy it, for racing it might be worthwhile but on the street/towing nah the pad is more important. Slotting could cause noise and will reduce brake pad life.
If you want to buy slotted you can but will likely notice nothing.
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Blaze what is your problem with the rotors. Did they get trashed by wearing through a pad? If not you most likely have pad material sticking to them. That can be dealt with for a lot less than replacing the rotors.
Hawk LTS: FANTASTIC brake pad for towing/trucks. Seemingly breaks the laws of physics. More heat and abuse you give them, the better they stop. Always got best stopping after while violating them towing a HEAVY trailer.
Thermoquiet: Hugest garbage pad I have ever used on a truck. Braking was awful, especially when the heat was on. Those pads were ready for the bin after 7000 miles, and those miles were not good ones. Barely adequate for an empty truck. Trailering was spooky. One time I dug for the brakes after a car cut off another car in front of me, and it was like they weren't even there. Disposed of them the same day. Some pads fell off the backing plate upon removal, even though more than half thickness left.
Slotted rotors: Not bad on pad life or noise in my experience. I actually completely wore out my rotors on one set of pads last set I bought, after 68k miles. Do they help braking? Who knows. Where they definitely help is with wet brakes. They don't seem to know or care that the brakes are wet. The slots evacuate the water as quickly as it hits.
Thermoquiet: Hugest garbage pad I have ever used on a truck. Braking was awful, especially when the heat was on. Those pads were ready for the bin after 7000 miles, and those miles were not good ones. Barely adequate for an empty truck. Trailering was spooky. One time I dug for the brakes after a car cut off another car in front of me, and it was like they weren't even there. Disposed of them the same day. Some pads fell off the backing plate upon removal, even though more than half thickness left.
Slotted rotors: Not bad on pad life or noise in my experience. I actually completely wore out my rotors on one set of pads last set I bought, after 68k miles. Do they help braking? Who knows. Where they definitely help is with wet brakes. They don't seem to know or care that the brakes are wet. The slots evacuate the water as quickly as it hits.
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Hawk LTS: FANTASTIC brake pad for towing/trucks. Seemingly breaks the laws of physics. More heat and abuse you give them, the better they stop. Always got best stopping after while violating them towing a HEAVY trailer.
Slotted rotors: Not bad on pad life or noise in my experience. I actually completely wore out my rotors on one set of pads last set I bought, after 68k miles. Do they help braking? Who knows. Where they definitely help is with wet brakes. They don't seem to know or care that the brakes are wet. The slots evacuate the water as quickly as it hits.
LTS- the guys at stillen turned me onto them when I complained I didnt like teh warm up required for their "metal matrix pad"
They said try these- what a difference. an amazing stopping, wearing, low dust, low noise everything - the pads is simply top shelf and my new go to.
Stopping power is right up there with bridge abutments.
ON the OP's subject - towing lots of weight with a half ton truck yeah - you are going to go through lots of parts - especially brakes. 40K with a medium duty cycle is about right. This shoudl not be surprising- maybe not what the dealer or anyone told you but yeah 40K is about right for good stuff working hard.
On the slots - and cross drilling - very interesting topic and discussion
There seems to be a consensus that the slots do indeed increase the friction coefficient and stop better. (and for sure in the wet)
Drilling/ cross drilling - is interesting, many claim it provides no benefit other than looking cool, however Ive seen the case made that cooling always gets better when the surface area is increased and that drilling increases the available surface area a measurable amount - the downside seems to be they can develop; cracks if not chamfered lovingly.
Just about all the brake guys agree if you are going to get one or the other get the slots.
Uncle Dave
Hawk LTS: FANTASTIC brake pad for towing/trucks. Seemingly breaks the laws of physics. More heat and abuse you give them, the better they stop. Always got best stopping after while violating them towing a HEAVY trailer.
Slotted rotors: Not bad on pad life or noise in my experience. I actually completely wore out my rotors on one set of pads last set I bought, after 68k miles. Do they help braking? Who knows. Where they definitely help is with wet brakes. They don't seem to know or care that the brakes are wet. The slots evacuate the water as quickly as it hits.
LTS- the guys at stillen turned me onto them when I complained I didnt like teh warm up required for their "metal matrix pad"
They said try these- what a difference. an amazing stopping, wearing, low dust, low noise everything - the pads is simply top shelf and my new go to.
Stopping power is right up there with bridge abutments.
ON the OP's subject - towing lots of weight with a half ton truck yeah - you are going to go through lots of parts - especially brakes. 40K with a medium duty cycle is about right. This shoudl not be surprising- maybe not what the dealer or anyone told you but yeah 40K is about right for good stuff working hard.
On the slots - and cross drilling - very interesting topic and discussion
There seems to be a consensus that the slots do indeed increase the friction coefficient and stop better. (and for sure in the wet)
Drilling/ cross drilling - is interesting, many claim it provides no benefit other than looking cool, however Ive seen the case made that cooling always gets better when the surface area is increased and that drilling increases the available surface area a measurable amount - the downside seems to be they can develop; cracks if not chamfered lovingly.
Just about all the brake guys agree if you are going to get one or the other get the slots.
Uncle Dave
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I put these rotors on my Silverado several years ago when I was getting pretty bad fade on the stock equipment while towing a 10,000+ pound boat and trailer equipped with surge brakes. After the upgrade I never experienced fade again...and still on the same pads roughly 50,000 miles later. I now tow my boat (smaller only about 8000 pounds now) almost every weekend, and have never needed more braking force, or experienced fade. Those are Powerstop rotors, and I actually used the new Wagner OEX pads that are also designed to run cooler.
Originally Posted By: andyd
Blaze what is your problem with the rotors. Did they get trashed by wearing through a pad? If not you most likely have pad material sticking to them. That can be dealt with for a lot less than replacing the rotors.
The newer Ford F 150's evidently come with [censored] rotors from the factory. On the Ecoboost forums everyone is replacing theirs at 40K of less. This is a common problem.
Blaze what is your problem with the rotors. Did they get trashed by wearing through a pad? If not you most likely have pad material sticking to them. That can be dealt with for a lot less than replacing the rotors.
The newer Ford F 150's evidently come with [censored] rotors from the factory. On the Ecoboost forums everyone is replacing theirs at 40K of less. This is a common problem.
Originally Posted By: FordBroncoVWJeta
Originally Posted By: totegoat
Downshifting will help brakes last longer.
I'd personally would rather change brakes and rotors than clutches. One is a lot easier/cheaper.
Totally agreed.
Since I have yet to see any egobooster with a stick shift I am figuring you meant slushbox parts and brakes.
Originally Posted By: totegoat
Downshifting will help brakes last longer.
I'd personally would rather change brakes and rotors than clutches. One is a lot easier/cheaper.
Totally agreed.
Since I have yet to see any egobooster with a stick shift I am figuring you meant slushbox parts and brakes.
Most folks confuse a pad problem with a rotor problem when pads are almost always the culprit.
IME on 3500 HD trucks here loaded to max GVWR (well over 9000 pounds) OE pads are simply difficult to beat. But the aftermarket always has something and you can literally fit them to your driving. Note that we routinely have front pads last 100k miles.
As far as rotors go, slotteds were created to deal with pad issues. Drilled are for cars with excess braking capacity only. The rotor is a heat sink, removing mass only removes heat absorbing capability.
Sounds to me like the vehicle has marginal brakes from the factory...
IME on 3500 HD trucks here loaded to max GVWR (well over 9000 pounds) OE pads are simply difficult to beat. But the aftermarket always has something and you can literally fit them to your driving. Note that we routinely have front pads last 100k miles.
As far as rotors go, slotteds were created to deal with pad issues. Drilled are for cars with excess braking capacity only. The rotor is a heat sink, removing mass only removes heat absorbing capability.
Sounds to me like the vehicle has marginal brakes from the factory...
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