335i BMW Rear Bearing: DIY?

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So after steadily getting louder for the last 10 months, it's time to do something about it.

Problem: corrosion makes the job totally miserable. On an e46, I attempted to replace a rear bearing but gave up after 3 days of beating on the CV shaft, trying to get it out of the flange. I gave up and brought it to a shop, for about $300.

This time, on the 335, I can't even get the CV nut off without breaking tools. I'm willing to run to Sears tomorrow to pick up a 700+ ft/lbs air impact on sale. (I'll use it all the time, right?)

But in due diligence, in the interest of preserving my sanity, I called around to a couple of shops for quotes. Somehow, everyone seems to be $850+. For a wheel bearing! Like almost a grand!

It's essentially the exact same anatomy as a FWD car. But it rides in the salt spray kicked up from the front, so it seems like anything on the back end suffers from a lot of corrosion. This car is 11 years old with 193,000 miles. Hence the price, I guess.

So, BITOGers, how far should I peruse this? I changed the transmission in my 530i a couple months ago. I've been wrenching on BMWs for 21 years and I love being cheap. But some of these jobs are pain since I have a [censored] garage. And I'm not getting any younger.

I either need encouragement, or permission to take the pry bar to my wallet. Thoughts appreciated.
 
The car is not dead-lined right? Could you do a couple days/week of soaking with "Kroil" and brushing/scrubbing? Then maybe try some heat?
 
Your pretty much in my boat now...

It all comes down to time and resources. We share the same type of winter/rust issues.

Doing things on the back, without a torch or press can be challenging. You tried once and tapped out.

If you had a week and didn't need the car as a DD, sure go for it. Is it press in bearing or a bolt on bearing?
 
Some things are just worth paying for. And some cars are worth the cost.

I paid $1200 to have the timing belt and waterpump done on my GTI, worth every cent considering the labor.
 
Originally Posted By: edwardh1
WHAT Is a e46

There's always one.

Did you think to ask Google that same question?

It's the 4th-gen 3er. '99-'05.
 
Originally Posted By: edwardh1
WHAT Is an e46


This might help: http://bfy.tw/3xO

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Originally Posted By: antonmnster
So, BITOGers, how far should I peruse this? I changed the transmission in my 530i a couple months ago. I've been wrenching on BMWs for 21 years and I love being cheap. But some of these jobs are pain since I have a [censored] garage. And I'm not getting any younger.

I either need encouragement, or permission to take the pry bar to my wallet. Thoughts appreciated.


Wrenching for 21 years in the rust belt and no impact? Intimidated by rusty fasteners and a wheel bearing?

Something ain't right.

Stop whining, get a hub puller and wheel bearing service kit and get it done. $850 for a wheel bearing? Maybe you can stop by Forever 21 on the way back from the shop.
 
Originally Posted By: edwardh1
I dont ever see any ads for e46s
Your not allowed to respond if you are NOT "Break My Window" club cognoscenti
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Drove a new 318ti once in 1998, drove WORSE than my Yugo or my 96 Contour V6 5 speed.

Terrible cheap strut front suspension. Or maybe it was just misagligned in transport.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Your not allowed to respond if you are NOT "Break My Window" club cognoscenti
smile.gif



Drove a new 318ti once in 1998, drove WORSE than my Yugo or my 96 Contour V6 5 speed.

Terrible cheap strut front suspension. Or maybe it was just misagligned in transport.

Or maybe it was all in your head.

Thinking that was it.
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Your not allowed to respond if you are NOT "Break My Window" club cognoscenti
smile.gif



Drove a new 318ti once in 1998, drove WORSE than my Yugo or my 96 Contour V6 5 speed.

Terrible cheap strut front suspension. Or maybe it was just misagligned in transport.

Or maybe it was all in your head.

Thinking that was it.


I've heard people say they do not like euro cars specifically BMWs because they suspension is too firm and the steering too heavy. They usually drive American cars, I can turn the wheel of my dad's 97 Sierra with my pinky finger.
 
I haven't done them on my BMW yet (E36 M3)... but have done many other RWD euros and it's a YMMV. Rust just makes things exponentially more difficult. Typical home-gamer, no access to lift, torches, presses, etc...

If your struggling just getting the axle free, usually not a source of difficulty, then it's likely best left to a professional.
 
I just swapped a transmission in my 2001 530i. And it looks like I nicked the front seal so I'll be doing it again in a couple months, so it's not like I'm totally worthless.

I've snapped a couple of wrenches so far on this CV nut. I do have an air impact but it's a [censored] Northern Tool thing that can barely undo a lug nut.

Going to try a different impact and go from there. Could always rest the wrench against the ground and put it in reverse. It's emasculating to be outdone but such simple things.
 
Originally Posted By: antonmnster
I just swapped a transmission in my 2001 530i. And it looks like I nicked the front seal so I'll be doing it again in a couple months, so it's not like I'm totally worthless.

I've snapped a couple of wrenches so far on this CV nut. I do have an air impact but it's a [censored] Northern Tool thing that can barely undo a lug nut.

Going to try a different impact and go from there. Could always rest the wrench against the ground and put it in reverse. It's emasculating to be outdone but such simple things.

Get a real impact, dude! I have an IR 231 and it's pretty basic and cheap but good enough for a DIYer. Rent axle nut sockets, if you don't want to buy them for extra oomph.
Are you seriously trying to loosen an axle nut with a combination wrench? Or do you mean something else when you say wrenches?
 
It maybe apples and oranges, but..In order to revive the ABS on the Borman6, my '88 528e, I had to replace a rear hub. Middle of January of course. It was a bear. IIRC a pry bar and and a masons block chisel were involved. The bearing was helped out with a steering wheel puller that barely worked. I think the big nut was loosened with a 1 7/16 slugging wrench and some leverage. Cheapest way out would prolly be a slugging wrench. I remember spending 4 hrs taking apart stuff just to get to the point of go/no go before I decided to button up stuff for the next week's round of commuting. Ordered stuff and hit it the following Saturday and was pleasantly surprised with how simple the whole rigmarole turned out. This was an E 28 and once you got the hang of them, they were very easy to maintain. Newer models, less so.

PS. No air, but Archimedes is my friend. I've started many a tough nut lying flat on my back and using a foot. Another time, I rested the wrench in the cup of a floor jack
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Rear wheel bearings on a rear-wheel drive car is a job I'll always farm out. Learned the hard way on a 240Z that some jobs just aren't worth doing yourself.
 
Can you take the center cap out of the wheel or use the spare tire, put the wheel on and put the car on the ground then chock the wheel and use a socket on a breaker bar through the wheel?

I had to have a mechanic break loose a Honda crank bolt after trying a 5 ft pipe over a breaker bar with no luck. I felt defeated but it took the mechanic about 5 minutes with a torch and an impact wrench. Well worth the $20.
 
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