Front wheel stud on a 2000 buick century

[JimmyJohns]

Hey again guys, I hope this isn't counted as spam since I made a post earlier about brakes on this, but I wanted to focus on replacing the wheel stud here.

I can't find much online about this car and this repair, but from what I did find, it sounds like the hub needs to be removed to replace the stud, can anyone chime in on this? I understand some vehicles have cut outs exactly for this, but it doesn't look like GM was kind enough to do that here.

I took the wheel off, and took a photo of the only area I could see without removing the caliper and bracket https://imgur.com/a/BKDvRaT

The thing is, I don't know what lies underneath the caliper and bracket.


I just need to come up with a game plan here before I start buying stuff, and I could use as much information on this particular job as possible.

 

[BurrWinder]

No, just need to remove the brake caliper and mount, and the rotor. Then you can pound out the old stud with a hammer and punch too, if needed. Get the correct stud and some large nuts/washers to build up against the hub ( to not damage it and to draw against ) and use a standard (non acorn ) style lug nut to "pull" the stud into the hub with a socket... REassemble brakes and you're good to go. easy peasy really.

BurrWinder

 

[BurrWinder]

Here is a visual aid....

Just pound it out of the hub carefully... not brain surgery...

I like to index somewhat the knurled/fluted part into the hub upon reassembly for ease, but not completely necessary...

https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotiv...-stud/view-all/

BurrWinder

 

[JimmyJohns]

Thanks for that, my concern isn't really getting the old one out, it's getting the new one in that seems like it's going to be a challenge. I mean that, because it looks like it might have to go in at an angle, and it might not have enough room to actually go through the hole.

If possible, as a last resort if I can't find some washers, I was thinking of using a C-clamp and a big socket, kind of like doing a U-joint

 

[BurrWinder]

You may need to INSERT it initially in at an angle, BUT once in the back of hub just square it up and straighten it out with your hand up to the point where it starts to have the fluting on it... THEN you get to " pulling " it on with the setup as in pt 2 of the pics...

No real special tools needed... GM's are usually pretty easy.. heck, the whole hub will unbolt to replace it on these, if needed...
DO NOT waste your time with this if it is not bad or in need of replacing bearing or speed sensor wise... just put in a stud and call it a day...


BurrWinder

 

[BurrWinder]

The hubs are mostly on GM's in a triangle shape, therefore, you just need to rotate the hub to one of the " flats " to get the proper room to install the stud / or remove it... in RARE occurrences, i have seen the round " head " part ground at a small angle to get just enough extra room to slide it into the hub, if needed... not any safety risk as it has 5 studs and there is NO WAY a slight edge ground is EVER going to influence the wheel stud torque and safety with this little part missing.

BurrWinder

 

[JimmyJohns]

I saw that in a video, someone basically ground it down to a "D" shape. If need be, my makita grinder has been getting bored and would love to get to work. I appreciate the help and suggestions Burr

 

[doitmyself]

That's some good info there BurrWinder. There is a Youtube video of front bearing replacement on a 2001 Buick Century that "looks" like it might be possible to squeeze a new lug nut in at approximately the 2 o'clock position. If not, the head grinding option should work.

At what point is hammering on the stud for removal possibly detrimental to the bearings??

There's also numerous Youtube videos showing how to pull the new stud into the hole.

Good luck!!!!!!

EDI: Here's a past thread that is inconclusive also about the clearance: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2116906/1

 

[eljefino]

These studs are in pretty easy. You won't hurt the bearing. Put it in neutral and spin the hub till the old part falls out, then you'll see your path to wiggle the new one in.

Check your lug nut torque daily for a week; it takes time for them to fully seat.

 

[JimmyJohns]

I actually came across that post, and that's kind of what made me fearful that this might be a touch difficult. GMBoy seems confident in it to be done, and the OP of that thread said he got it in, so fingers crossed. I'll definitely report back once I do it incase anyone else googles for this like me

 

[Nick1994]

You'll have to remove the caliper and rotor.

Hammer the old one out, slide the new one in. Then use the closed end of a wrench or a larger nut, then tighten the lug nut to "pull" the new stud in.

My mom's Buick Rendezvous had a spot where it was dished out where you could change the stud. Might have to tap with a hammer since it'll likely start to go in at an angle. That's ok.

Watch this video on how he pulls the stud into place.

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted By: JimmyJohns
I saw that in a video, someone basically ground it down to a "D" shape. If need be, my makita grinder has been getting bored and would love to get to work. I appreciate the help and suggestions Burr

Are you sure the stud head was ground down? I know they make studs with a "D" head.

 

[BurrWinder]

One other thing, some studs have an unthreaded pilot on them that will make them much more difficult if there is not much room available. if possible, get one without this pilot if able to ahead of time, or make sure you have enough room as this will make a big difference if you have one that is extra close coupled in back of hub to bearing and no special access window to replace it in. Make sense ?

BurrWinder

 

[BurrWinder]

Sorry, just reread your post. If you are sincerely worried about hammering out the old stud and some side load on the bearing, just get some 2x4's or what have you and carefully jamb in behind hub on bearing support metal 180 deg. apart and out of your way of your stud and hammer away. That will spread the load and support the bearing. Again, not super difficult. They aren't in there THAT hard once everything is removed. Also, if you carefully push the caliper back slightly with a prybar tool you can save a bunch of busywork removing the caliper from the mount... just keep it together and support it, then reinstall with just the 2 mount bolts to work with, time saved !

BurrWinder