Eric The Car Guy's Mobil 1 AP Test

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: dogememe
I've made my distaste for Mobil clear on this forum and for the time being no Mobil will end up in ANY of my vehicles. That said, Eric the Car Guy's results are decent and I'm sure he will never have a problem with his engine in that application if he uses M1 AP and changes it on a yearly basis. I'm not saying M1 sucks or that M1 AP is a bad product, it's just not for everyone.




I see in your sig that you are running Valvoline. Do you know from which source they get their baseoils? I ask because I don’t know myself but it could likely be from EOM.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
No lead in the previous UOA and high lead in the extended-OCI UOA means the oil failed during the extended OCI. TAN went through the roof, which caused the lead corrosion. So much with the M1 AP. Thumbs down. Their Ca - Mg detergent is not that good after all and neither is their base oil (40 - 50% GTL) but probably the main problem was the detergent failing and the TAN increasing.

An important note: With Mg-containing detergents, it's a must to measure TAN, which they didn't, because TBN alone doesn't tell you anything if you have Mg. That's because if Ca is depleted, Mg will still retain the TBN but it will not neutralize all types of acids, causing high wear. The quantity to look at is TBN - TAN, not TBN. Also, I was reading in that paper I linked a while ago about TBN, TAN, Ca, Mg, base-oil quality, oil life that Mg increases oil oxidation -- not helpful for long OCI's.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
No lead in the previous UOA and high lead in the extended-OCI UOA means the oil failed during the extended OCI. TAN went through the roof, which caused the lead corrosion. So much with the M1 AP. Thumbs down. Their Ca - Mg detergent is not that good after all and neither is their base oil (40 - 50% GTL) but probably the main problem was the detergent failing and the TAN increasing.

An important note: With Mg-containing detergents, it's a must to measure TAN, which they didn't, because TBN alone doesn't tell you anything if you have Mg. That's because if Ca is depleted, Mg will still retain the TBN but it will not neutralize all types of acids, causing high wear. The quantity to look at is TBN - TAN, not TBN. Also, I was reading in that paper I linked a while ago about Ca/Mg/TBN that Mg increases oil oxidation -- not helpful for long OCI's.


You make far too many assumptions. While I wouldn't personally go past 15k miles on any oil, and I do think knowing TAN is important, using Ca/Mg is fine and long drain can be made using both.

There are no signs of oxidation here, so I'm not sure what you're even referring to.

The Pb could be better, otherwise I think it held up ok.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
No lead in the previous UOA and high lead in the extended-OCI UOA means the oil failed during the extended OCI. TAN went through the roof, which caused the lead corrosion. So much with the M1 AP. Thumbs down. Their Ca - Mg detergent is not that good after all and neither is their base oil (40 - 50% GTL) but probably the main problem was the detergent failing and the TAN increasing.


Only a 72 % approval rating with this oil where most of their other oils receive a higher approval rating.

One in 3 vehicles needed a quart added and Mobil recommends checking your oil frequently. I thought this oil was a pour in and forget about type oil?

"September 7, 2017
In combined vehicle testing (3 vehicles) after 120,000 miles per vehicle at 20,000 mile oil change intervals, only on one occasion did a vehicle require an oil top up (1 quart low). While this performance indicates that Mobil 1 Annual Protection helps control oil consumption/burn off very effectively, we recommend checking your oil frequently to ensure it is at the proper level. If required, add oil to bring it up to the proper level. Please review our proven protection guarantee: http://mobil.co/2s9KKDG

Read some of these reviews. Most know I dislike Mobil oil but if I had no choice and had to spend my money on overpriced Mobil oil, it wouldn't be spent on this AP stuff.
https://mobiloil.com/en/motor-oils/mobil-1/mobil-1-annual-protection
 
Originally Posted By: Gebo


I subscribe to his YouTube channel. But there is something about this particular YouTube that doesn’t sit well with me.
I used to really trust what he said but now.....umm...I don’t feel the same way about his opinions.


You can see in past videos that Eric The Car Guy knows very little about motor oil. I'd take anything he says about it with a grain of salt. That said, he seems like an honest person and wouldn't "fake" the used oil analysis. I'm sure Mobil gave him that oil and filter and oil analysis for free but the results are the results.

Originally Posted By: PimTac
Originally Posted By: dogememe
I've made my distaste for Mobil clear on this forum and for the time being no Mobil will end up in ANY of my vehicles. That said, Eric the Car Guy's results are decent and I'm sure he will never have a problem with his engine in that application if he uses M1 AP and changes it on a yearly basis. I'm not saying M1 sucks or that M1 AP is a bad product, it's just not for everyone.




I see in your sig that you are running Valvoline. Do you know from which source they get their baseoils? I ask because I don’t know myself but it could likely be from EOM.


No idea where Valvoline gets their base stocks from, and to be honest I don't really care because the base oil and the finished product are not the same thing. I'm not sticking with Valvoline across the board. Suburban is probably gonna stay with Valvoline, but Maxlife instead of white-bottle conventional, the Crown Vic is going to get put on a diet of nothing but Royal Purple HPS, and I haven't decided whatto do with the Escape yet. Still torn between continuing to use Valvoline SynPower/Advanced Synthetic, Castrol Edge Extended Performance, Royal Purple's regular API-licensed oil, or Royal Purple HPS.
 
Well, good luck dogememe.

The point I was trying to make is that there are only a few baseoil manufacturers that I’m aware of. EOM, Shell, Chevron, to name few. Additives also come from a handful of companies as well. Alton and Infineum are two I know of.


Royal Purple, Amsoil, and many other blenders get the components from other companies. Some here like to stick to the bigger names as everything is under one roof and testing is done in house as well. That’s a personal preference.


In many ways the analogy is like those who bought Chrysler minivans because they were American, not knowing they had Mitsubishi engines, or the numbers of cars from the former Big 3 that were and are rebadged foreign models.
 
Quote:
till torn between continuing to use Valvoline SynPower/Advanced Synthetic, Castrol Edge Extended Performance, Royal Purple's regular API-licensed oil, or Royal Purple HPS.


All great choices. I'd go with Castrol Edge EP for longer drains.
 
I am trying to figure out what is so special about Mobil's AP's "new" 20,000 mile oil change intervals. Mobil 1's first oil, a 5W-20, was recommended for 25,000 mile oil changes way back in 1976 and Amsoil had same mileage limit even before that. Annual protection 20,00 miles is not a new concept folks. I would not try to go that many miles on any oil unless the engine was still in newer condition, meaning it still has close to factory new compression and consumption levels. Tighter engines dump less contaminants in the oil such as fuel and combustion gases, allowing the oil to contaminate more slowly. Type of driving impacts oil contamination quite a bit as well. Short trips eat up the TBN much faster and puts more soot type particles in the oil. Long trips such as mostly highway or constant speed driving can allow even lesser oils to safely go for extended intervals in a tight engine due to less contaminants getting in the oil and staying there until oil change time.

And at least one person mentioned that the oil filter needs to match the intended use. In other words, don't use a 5000-10,000 oil mile filter for 15 or 20k miles.

From what I understand, Amsoil's 25,000 mile/one year oil change limit is not recommended for engines that were not run on Amsoil for the first 100,000 miles. This makes sense to me since a higher quality synthetic oil can keep the piston ring grooves much cleaner over time, helping to maintain a tighter combustion seal, which in turn allows less contamination into the oil over longer oci's. This is the one main benefit to me besides longer oil changes that high quality synthetic oils can offer: keeping engines cleaner where it counts on the pistons, which keeps it running like a new engine with like-new efficiency too due to better compression and oil control.
 
I'm personally not a fan of very long drain intervals, especially in some of the newer GDI engines. 10k has always been my limit. As you said bmwtechguy, these products have existed for quite some time. The difference with M1 AP/current Amsoil SS is that they meets API SN Plus and dexos gen 2. Mobil 1 and Amsoil from the late 70's used different additives. Oils are always changing over time.
 
This doesn't impress me... a 2012 Honda Odyssey isn't exactly a vehicle that stresses the oil. I would much rather see how Mobil 1 Annual Protection does in a GDI Turbo application... or even just standard GDI for that matter.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
Quote:
till torn between continuing to use Valvoline SynPower/Advanced Synthetic, Castrol Edge Extended Performance, Royal Purple's regular API-licensed oil, or Royal Purple HPS.


All great choices. I'd go with Castrol Edge EP for longer drains.


Yeah, I aim for like 8K OCIs but life happens and since it seems I end up leaving it in there for double that an oil designed specifically for extended OCIs would be ideal. I keep changing my mind but yeah probably Edge EP it will be.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: buster
Originally Posted By: WobblyElvis
In my experience a UOA cannot tell you if sludge/deposits are starting to form in the engine. So if he keeps running oil this long he may run into problems.


Oxidation resistance is one of the best ways to avoid deposits. Using the most oxidation resistant base oils/AO’s/detergents and dispersants all play a role.

This is why Mobil showed this graph:


I have commented on this graph before, seems like XOM is admitting that AP will suffer from a larger viscosity loss than competitors in the early part of the long OCI but resist oxidation much longer. Interesting because it seems like a lot of people will complain about low viscosity in UOAs for M1 oils after 5-10kmile runs.
 
Originally Posted By: jim302
This doesn't impress me... a 2012 Honda Odyssey isn't exactly a vehicle that stresses the oil. I would much rather see how Mobil 1 Annual Protection does in a GDI Turbo application... or even just standard GDI for that matter.


+1

I have a 2012 Hyundai Sonata, known GDI oil diluter. I'd probably have to add 3-4 quarts over 20,000 miles.

I have too much ProDS anyway, bought 29 jugs when they had the closeout and I still have 25 or 26.
 
Originally Posted By: jim302
This doesn't impress me... a 2012 Honda Odyssey isn't exactly a vehicle that stresses the oil. I would much rather see how Mobil 1 Annual Protection does in a GDI Turbo application... or even just standard GDI for that matter.


You mean like the vehicles XOM tested AP in?
 
Originally Posted By: jim302
This doesn't impress me... a 2012 Honda Odyssey isn't exactly a vehicle that stresses the oil. I would much rather see how Mobil 1 Annual Protection does in a GDI Turbo application... or even just standard GDI for that matter.



Eric can only really test on what hes got and you might as well start easy before you give it a real challenge.

You are right - with its belt driven valve train and non DI injection system Eric's ride does not stress the oil.

Turbos certainly test temps , but dont shear like the Di rigs that are also pushing complex valvetrains with chains.

Add in a DOHC 4V chain driven design, then add some towing on top of that say 20% towing cycle.

I hope to see some harder tests come in the future in the meantime Ill watch and see.....

In any case - thanks Eric for doing what you did.

UD
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Originally Posted By: jim302
This doesn't impress me... a 2012 Honda Odyssey isn't exactly a vehicle that stresses the oil. I would much rather see how Mobil 1 Annual Protection does in a GDI Turbo application... or even just standard GDI for that matter.


You mean like the vehicles XOM tested AP in?


That is correct Mobil chose GDI engines for their testing. Good move on their part.
 
Both my 01 Ford Ranger 4.0 4x4 and my 00 mazda 626 2.0 are approaching 300,000 each with mobil 1 in their crankcases with no engine problems at all, im slighty OCD on drain intervals using extended performance mobil 1 and changing them at 6,000 but at 25 dollars a jug and a good filter ill keep doing it,beats 800 dollar a moth payment on something new. And ya Ocd about all other maintiance and fixing things that break,but the mazda should see 500,000 miles easy,with no rust either
 
Well my mazda has lots of Ford parts in it least the motor...it seems impossible to kill lol im a mazda fan for life especially at 32 mpg on the highway with air blowing crazy cold...
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

R
Castrol Edge 5W-50 UOA after 4 hours on the track in a Mustang GT
Replies
10
Views
882
RevvCats
S
My gen 1 3.5 Ecoboost; An inauspicious Start
2
Replies
28
Views
2K
benjy
D
Mobil 1 EP 5w30 20k...my new normal
2 3 4
Replies
68
Views
17K
DAVIDO49
Robvette
ZF6 Manual Transmission Fluid Comparison. (Specifically the ZF S6-40, made from 1989–1996.)
Replies
5
Views
3K
930.engineering
wwillson
  • Locked
Answers - Pennzoil Technology behind "Made From Natural Gas" and Vehicle maintenance while driving less Q&A
Replies
5
Views
31K
RateNate
Back
Top