2000 Buick century front brake job and a wheelStud

[JimmyJohns]

Hey guys

My mothers car needs some new pads, and I'm going to throw rotors on while I'm at it. The pedal pulsates pretty bad, and they look like they could use a set. I thought the drums were the culprit, but I've gone through 3 sets, and recently discovered the slide pins on the driver front caliper was siezed a little, so if I had to guess, the rotor got hot, or at least I hope.

Honest to god going to be my first brake job, even though I've done a rack on this thing amongst a ton of other work, so please bear with me.

Can you use silicone paste on the pins if they've been lubed with normal grease in the past? I'm looking at grabbing some of this: Sil-Glyde brake lubricant

Here is a set of Centric rotors and pads, This is the set of rotors and pads I was thinking about getting, let me know what you think I'm trying to be as frugal as possible I'm working with a tight budget

Now for the wheel stud, about a year and a half ago, one of the studs broke off when I torqued the wheel down to 80 ft lbs. I feel bad about it, but I've left the 4/5 lug nuts on there.

Is it even possible to replace the wheel studs in the front without removing the wheel hub? I don't doubt being able to get the stud out, since it's broken, but getting a new one in concerns me. I've heard they make some shorter studs, but I can't seem to find any for my application.

If you need any additional information, please let me know, I look forward to hearing back. If I don't reply right away, I might have dozed off, long night.

 

[CharBaby]

What drums are you talking about(3 sets) as you are talking about rotors? Is this a F: Disk/R: Drum setup or 4 wheel Disk setup?
Are you doing ONLY the front brakes?
Am I missing something?

Yes, the Centric kit is fine and I have/and am using them right now with good things to report...no problems!

Yes, you can use Sil-Glyde(GREAT STUFF) on the slider pins. Just wipe off the old grease.

As-far-as the wheel stud, I'd have to see if there is an access hole to pound/punch out the old stud and install a new one. Sometimes there is, mmmmm juuuust enough room to get a new one in but, IDK your Mom's car at this moment.

I mean^^^ I have ground down/cut off some thread of the stud to make it fit without removing the hub. Ground down & clean up the threads BUT, I don't recommend it to others.

The missing stud probably contributed to the rotor warpage(along with the Buffalo winter/salt) as uneven torque was applied around the rotor hat.

 

[Thax]

Everyone had a first brake job at some point. This should be a easy first one. First off the Centric rotors and pads should be a good fit for a non abused daily driver. Syl glyde is an excellent guide pin lubricant and can absolutely used where grease was, just clean all the grease off. On the metal to metal contact points use brake grease such as permatex ceramic brake grease. Clean all the rust off of the caliper mounting bracket where the hardware sits. I use a file to get hard rust deposits off the bracket. Good video by a good mechanic up in your neck of the woods. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yhw_d_EWrOQ Wheel studs arent rocket science either , the hardest part is getting the stud pulled into and through the hub. I have used cv axle nuts to center a lug nut to pull the stud through. They make dedicated stud installer tools also. This video might help you out from a diy on a gm product https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0VIEGcJJ-U Hope your repairs go smoothly

 

[andyd]

First, before buying anything, take the wheels off and look at what you have. If the rotors aren't chewed up from metal to metal contact with worn out pads, I clean off the pad transfer with a wire wheel or sand paper. Clean off the slides and use Sil-Glyde. Then replace the pads, if they are worn or wire wheel the glaze off and reuse. I would do a Google search for a you tube how to on the stud R+R.

In the time I've been messing with disk brakes, I don't think I've ever replaced a rotor that wasn't damaged by metal to contact. Make the rotor surface shiny and maybe replace pads is all that is necessary.If the caliper is sticky, I take them apart and clean them up.

All this is labor intensive, DIY stuff. A pro's time is valuable. They can't mess around "fixing" stuff. They need to fix it right the first time. That is why they use new parts. Me, I'm a tinkerer.

 

[supton]

Check out youtube for how-to's. Decent chance someone has a video showing how to do everything for this.

I've yet to do a wheel stud yet, but the rest should be easy. I believe The_Critic recommends Honda M77 assembly paste for lube on the sliding surfaces for the brake pad ears, I've found it lasts a while (but it's pricey). Sil-Glyde is well recommended here, however I've yet to try it out.

Do be prepared for rust. Clean up the area under the brake shims (?) (whatever the stainless steel metal bits are called that the pad ears slide on) real well.

I watched a vid on rotor removal and the tech said to just whack between the wheel studs with a hammer if the rotor is stuck.

 

[CharBaby]

First, before buying anything, take the wheels off and look at what you have. If the rotors aren't chewed up from metal to metal contact with worn out pads, I clean off the pad transfer with a wire wheel or sand paper. Clean off the slides and use Sil-Glyde. Then replace the pads, if they are worn or wire wheel the glaze off and reuse. I would do a Google search for a you tube how to on the stud R+R.

This ain't happening in Buffalo. When rotors were bigger & heavier 40 Plus years ago, sure/maybe. Change the rotors! If the rotors aren't chewed up from the worn pads, they're going to be badly pitted from the SALT!

I have done this task(clean/sand rotors) too many times, trying to save a buck in last 30 years in our area of Buff/Roch to absolutely no avail. Change the rotors! The best you'd get out of cleaning them up is 6 months. Then you'd be changing the Rotors anyway!

We use WAAAAAAAY too much SALT here in Western NY State.

What you also want to get with your new pads is the hardwear clips if available.

 

[Donald]

As others have said you may be able to just wire brush the rotor to clean it up. Is the pad contact surface smooth or grooved. Groovy is great in music but not on brake rotors.

If pin is rusty replace. If dirty wipe clean and lube.

Soak bleeder screw with PB Blaster before you start. Best to open the bleeder while pushing back the piston. Push out the brake fluid that was in the caliper. Probably rusty anyway. Piston needs to go back in easily with C-clamp. Otherwise replace caliper or rebuild.

Inner pad wear should be similar to outer pad wear. If not then caliper problem.

Only use a 6-pt socket or 6-pt box-end on bleeder screw.

 

[Nick1994]

I've done a bunch of Buick brakes and lug studs.

For the lug studs, you can hammer them out, there's a notch out of the steering knuckle where they will barely slide out if you turn the wheel bearing. Then slide a new one in from the back, but you need to pull the stud all the way through. Get a nut that slides over the stud (one that is too big) and then get your lug nut and tighten, this will pull the stud through.

Make sure you've got good hardware, the metal clips for the brake pads. You can buy the whole metal clip kit cheap on Amazon. The dealer wanted some crazy price when I went to do it on my mom's Buick, so I bought the AC Delco kit cheap online.

 

[JimmyJohns]

Wow, thank you all for your helpful advice, I almost don't know where to begin.

I guess to start, I took the wheel off to take a look at how much room there is, and from what I could tell, it looks like it's going to be difficult. Nick, I couldn't see that notch you mentioned, but I also could be mistaken. I don't think I will be able to see much in terms of room for a stud until the caliper, bracket and rotor are off. I took some photos of the one spot I was able to actually see room

As for what I'm actually doing here, I'm only doing the front brakes. The rear drums that I mentioned, I have tried 3 different sets of drums, and still have a pedal pulsation, I thought the drums were the cause of this, but the more I'm reading, it sounds like the rotors could be it, but I'm not certain. They don't look the greatest, and with that missing wheel stud, I guess it makes sense that the rotor could have warped that way, but I don't want to put a new one on only for it to happen again, thats why I'm trying to make certain I can replace this stud.

If I missed something, I'll reply back soon, I gotta run for a few, I just wanted to fill everyone in where I'm at, I'm sorry for any confusion.