For storage the biggest issue is "drain off". It happens sometimes, mostly with synthetic oils. But, that's a very broad category in the US ...
Some oils have a lower surface tension based on the chemistry. Lower surface tension helps them attain things like 0W, etc. but it means they are less likely to maintain capillary fill. Small voids will always have a film of oil once wetted. But they can loose the thicker film cushion. Start the motor after sitting for a while (week) and they rattle until ALL the oil circulates. And since half the engine is lubed by splash and sling oil (not pumped oil), they can be quite noisy.
Good old dino oils have a mix of hydrocarbon chains by their nature. They almost always have higher surface tension and better capillary fill. They are almost always quieter on cold start after sitting.
The other issue is the filter and the anti-drain-back-valve. You want the best one you can get so that oil does not drain back into the sump. For me, that's always been WIX or Baldwin. Napa GOLD same. Use best filter you can (for construction, not necessarily efficiency).
So something like Chevron Supreme 10W-30 (easily good down to 0*F) and a Napa Gold filter means more robust residual film, quiet cold starts, and good lubrication. It's the residual oil film that has to do all the work until the oil is moving well. Sling oil off the crank is only oil that gets to cylinder walls and some cam systems.
Pumped pressure is there simply to overcome gravity for the upper end. It does not do much for a lot of the motor. So I think about residual oil film strength and film thickness over time, for seldom used vehicles (ranch trucks that only run seasonally, tractors, etc.).
If your vehicles seldom run, maybe this is the approach to take ...