I was able to replace one rear shock but not

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2002 Focus hatchback

the left rear shocks went in easy with no problems. I was able to take the impact gum and get the bolt out easy.

But the right rear shock's lower bolt will not budge. It is loose. There is room between the head of the bolt and where it bolts in to. So the shock will slide within that area. But it won't come out. I am able to get a breaker bar in there and turn it 1/8 of a turn each time, but if I relied on this method, it would take 12 hours!

So now, the car has one brand new KYB shock and one old shock bouncing around riding rough and noisy.

I will purchase one of those torque multipliers on Amazon. That should make it possible to remove the right shock bolt. Are either of these good? 1-inch 58:1 or 1/2-inch 16:1 The bolt size for the shock I'm trying to remove is 15mm.
 
Can you turn it in clockwise at all? If you work it back and forth a bit first it may come out more easily. A bit of penetrating oil before you turn it in could help.
 
I sprayed plenty of penetrating oil on both sides, around the same time. I actually sprayed the right side first, then the left. But I worked on the left side first, and it came out perfectly.

As for turning it clockwise, I already lowered the car, and I don't want to lift it again until I want to try it again, which probably won't be until next weekend, and I will most likely have the torque multiplier.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
Hitting the exposed threads of the bolt with a wire wheel before any of this is always helpful.

Yep, always clean the threads up before removing the nut.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
You can't get the impact on the right shock bolt? What impact gun? What length breaker bar? 1/2 inch drive?


The impact gun is the Craftsman C3 19V. The breaker bar is 25 inches. Both are 1/2 inch drive
 
There’s your problem, you’re using a Craftsman C3 battery powered impact. My experience with those things is they have a hard time taking off lug nuts.
 
When I changed my shocks on my Jeep the fronts went off fine. The rears were a major pain. Especially the bottom ones. Heat was the cure
 
Originally Posted By: MParr
There’s your problem, you’re using a Craftsman C3 battery powered impact. My experience with those things is they have a hard time taking off lug nuts.


You need more power. Perhaps see if a local tire shop will zip it off for you. Or get an aircat 1150 air gun.
 
Rather than buy a one time use torque multiplier. Perhaps buy a long 72 tooth ratchet. At $70 for the torque multiplier you would be spending 1/2 of the cost of an air cat impact wrench.

I've been thinking about one of these to keep on hand when in need the ratching action and lenght of a breaker bar. ITs 72 tooth for tight areas. $39.
$34 at a northern tool store.

https://www.amazon.com/Klutch-Extra-Long-Extendable-Ratchet-Drive/dp/B072P5VBLB/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1531102681&sr=8-4&keywords=long+ratchet&refinements=p_89%3AKlutch

EDIT. Lifetime warranty at northern tool.
 
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https://www.amazon.com/Nut-Splitter-Tool...ASIN=B0000AX88Q

An air or electric die grinder, a sawzall, a nut splitter, or a hammer and chisel; I swear by the OCD on BITOG, it would take a bigger nut than a 15mm to get the best of me.

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
I will purchase one of those torque multipliers on Amazon. That should make it possible to remove the right shock bolt. Are either of these good? 1-inch 58:1 or 1/2-inch 16:1 The bolt size for the shock I'm trying to remove is 15mm.

You are aware that any torque multiplier needs a fixed bracing point (fulcrum) and is going to REDUCE your rotational capacity by the gear ratio? For example, on a 16:1 ratio, you're going to turn 360 degrees times 16 to get one complete turn of the nut? Is THIS is going to take you 12 hours times 16? Break the (censored) nut. Saw the shock in half. Destroy something. Get it off in 10 minutes or less. Time is money.

PS When I did my rear shocks, I spent an extra $3 or so and replaced the bolts with 300 series Stainless and put vacuum plugs and silicon grease over the exposed threads. I will die before they rust.
 
UPDATE

The reason I couldn't get it off before is because the nut on the other side of the shock bolt became loose.

Normally, this nut is welded on, but somehow it came loose. Unfortunately, this nut is round, so putting a vice grip on it is useless since it walks off the nut when trying to loosen the bolt.

There is also no space to fit a bolt cutter on either side.

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Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
UPDATE

The reason I couldn't get it off before is because the nut on the other side of the shock bolt became loose.

Normally, this nut is welded on, but somehow it came loose. Unfortunately, this nut is round, so putting a vice grip on it is useless since it walks off the nut when trying to loosen the bolt.

There is also no space to fit a bolt cutter on either side.

mad.gif
mad.gif
mad.gif

Weld it back in place. Or go to a muffler shop on the bad side of town and give them $20 to weld it.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
UPDATE

The reason I couldn't get it off before is because the nut on the other side of the shock bolt became loose.

Normally, this nut is welded on, but somehow it came loose. Unfortunately, this nut is round, so putting a vice grip on it is useless since it walks off the nut when trying to loosen the bolt.

There is also no space to fit a bolt cutter on either side.

mad.gif
mad.gif
mad.gif

Weld it back in place. Or go to a muffler shop on the bad side of town and give them $20 to weld it.


That, or weld a good size nut to the round end of the bolt so you can get a wrench on it to remove it. Then you can replace the whole bolt so you have a head on that side.
 
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