Is higher weight oil in this heat a good idea?

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Ford E350. 5.4L. 191K. No leaks and not burning, none added between changes.
This is a service work van. The cap says 5W-20W. Today I put in 10W-30W Mobil 1 synthetic high mileage.
It's real hot here. It can get very cold in the winter, was using 5-20 then.
What do you think?
 
2v or 3v? I have a 2v but I thought I read somewhere 3v are picky? Not sure if that's true. I'd think you're fine in this heat, but not sure about winter. I'd think you'd be better off with M1 HM 5w30 if you wanted to stick with the 30 weight.
 
For summer, my opinion is that the 10w30 is totally fine. Agree with JeepWJ19 that 5w30 in winter is a better choice.

IMO that engine should have a minimum 30 grade, especially in a heavy work environment. I recall the Schaeffer Oil Million Mile Van, they used 15w40 for its entire life.
 
Your totally fine running 10w30 in hot weather in that engine, agree 5w30 maybe a better choice for winter depending on how cold it gets.
No it does not cause cam phaser issues.
 
I’ve run vehicles below zero and above 100 degrees and I have never changed the grade of oil that was specified for the engine. Granted, during really cold weather the engine will take a bit longer to get up to temperature. If your cooling system is up to par then your engine should be fine.

If you are hauling or towing then that’s a separate issue and oil grade should be considered.
 
Originally Posted By: Rat407
I say follow the owners manual. Other wise why do they even bother to print it if nobody will follow it.


Please see the numerous threads on CAFE, mpg, and US oil specifications for your answer.
 
Originally Posted By: JLTD
Originally Posted By: Rat407
I say follow the owners manual. Other wise why do they even bother to print it if nobody will follow it.


Please see the numerous threads on CAFE, mpg, and US oil specifications for your answer.


So the manual should read if you want to meet CAFE requirements and get better MPG then use the recommended 5w-20, otherwise run what you feel is best for your vehicle in your environment that makes you fee warm and fluffy inside.

That should about cover it.

All the vehicles running around in Phoenix AZ with 0w-20 in their sump are going to wear out quickly due to the extreme heat there. Maybe bithog should start a campaign there since it is so hot, to push 20w-50 so those individuals vehicles will last longer.
 
My last F150 was a 05 with the 5.4. Over the eleven years I kept it I used both 5w20 and 5w30. Saw no difference in how the truck ran or in gas mileage.
 
I use only 20 in Miami. I ran 300K miles using 5w20 in a 2005 Crown Vic. That is in 24/7 nightmare traffic in Miami Beach with a/c constantly on. I only run 0w20 in my Tahoe. I do not see vehicles dropping dead on the side of the road using 20. Here in Miami it is hot all year long.

I wish this nonsense would stop about going to a higher oil grade oil [thinking it is better for your engine] because of summer heat.
 
Originally Posted By: Rat407
Originally Posted By: JLTD
Originally Posted By: Rat407
I say follow the owners manual. Other wise why do they even bother to print it if nobody will follow it.


Please see the numerous threads on CAFE, mpg, and US oil specifications for your answer.


So the manual should read if you want to meet CAFE requirements and get better MPG then use the recommended 5w-20, otherwise run what you feel is best for your vehicle in your environment that makes you fee warm and fluffy inside.

That should about cover it.

All the vehicles running around in Phoenix AZ with 0w-20 in their sump are going to wear out quickly due to the extreme heat there. Maybe bithog should start a campaign there since it is so hot, to push 20w-50 so those individuals vehicles will last longer.


Ouch I just hurt my ocular nerve from rolling my eyes so far back. Not what I am saying at all, just trying to avoid putting the same information and debate from those threads here. Sorry that my post caused such a knee-jerk reaction; I cannot cure your lack of perspective, only you can do that so please go and actually do some reading.
 
Originally Posted By: JLTD
Originally Posted By: Rat407
I say follow the owners manual. Other wise why do they even bother to print it if nobody will follow it.


Please see the numerous threads on CAFE, mpg, and US oil specifications for your answer.


With that mileage - a 30 grade is not exactly some radical decision …
 
I ran 0W-20 in my 2010 FX4 with a 5.4L towing 8K in temperatures in the 117°F range. You can search for my UOAs, they were fine and your 5.4L will be fine no matter what oil you choose...no need to over think it.
 
Originally Posted By: Rat407
All the vehicles running around in Phoenix AZ with 0w-20 in their sump are going to wear out quickly due to the extreme heat there. Maybe bithog should start a campaign there since it is so hot, to push 20w-50 so those individuals vehicles will last longer.


Strawman alert...strawmen NEVER help your argument.
 
Freaking out about different ILSAC grades is really silly, engines rated for resource conserving oils run fine on slightly thicker oils.
While the HM M1 10w30 is actually a high quality a3 with a3.5or higher HTHS, the differences are minimal. You can run 10w30 with confidence and would only worry if your temperatures started to drop itowards zero.. Run the 5w20 with fortitude and confidence if you like as well. Nothing is wrong with that viscosity, 5w20 can be built really strong it is a great selection.

I prefer to avoid 0w20s not because of the viscosity, but due to the fact that they are exempt from a specific deposit formation test..that does not sit well with me.

If by chance your driving habits and environment are well outside the norm, a thicker oil can be beneficial and many manufacturers actually recommend it in those circumstances as a more suitable oil for the service.
Idling around in city traffic does not put a large strain on the engine oil temperature regardless of ambient temperature.

Driving at high rpms for sustained periods does create a strain on the oil temperature and can lead to relying on boundary lubrication.
These situations can happen due to speed, gearing, or lower gear selection for towing. My Tacoma engine likes to hang around 3500rpms at 80 mph where I spend a few hours at a time on my l9mg bi weekly commutes, when it is not doing that it is running caliche roads in 4wd and choking on dust. Created by water and oil trucks.
My 4Runner like to runner higher rpms when a boat is behind it, or it is climbing mountain passes. Other wise when I ,a not using it wife uses it for groceries and taking dogs to the vet. But 0w40stays in for me.
If all they did was run around town..I don’t think I would have sought out the thicker oils I run.
 
Run 15 or 20w 50 in summer. Go back to 0w20 in winter.

Change weights seasonally, like in the "ole days".

I'm only running lightweight winter oil in the suburbans that need to start in the cold.
 
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