Friend's find--a 2007 Honda Element

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Hello on this Fourth of July 2018

A month ago I scoped out a 2008 Nissan Stanza a friend had located online. It was near me so little effort was involved.
Good car it was but way too small for his lifestyle and job. By the time I called him back he had come around and realized he was just off-base.

He zeroed in on the Honda Element because of its utilitarian shape and the mods outdoorsy people had posted online. He was in smitten.

He asked me to accompany him to the lovely world of used car dealers in Paterson, NJ. This was Monday July 2nd.

The $5,995 EX was in near showroom shape except for driver's seat food stains and curb-rashed wheels.
It drove solidly for a vehicle with 125K. The RF wheel put out a wobble starting at 50 mph.

SHORT VERSION: The dealer sent the vehicle to his mechanic and they dewobbled it >95% as best as I could feel the next day.

My pal determined that this vehicle was in high demand for a certain classification of buyer so he bought it. My job was done so I took my leave.

He then surprised me by taking it to a nearby Honda dealership. An inspection they called "a diagnostic" was $125. He did this AFTER the sale.
He said they decrudded the wheels and remounted and rebalanced the cheap tires the thing had and it drove like a dream. He was even HAPPIER.
I hope some day to see the entire print-out of said "diagnostic".

MY CONTRIBUTION: I took the stack of R&M receipts from the glove box, organized and digested them for my friend.
The car was bought new in Danbury, CT for $24,002 TOTAL.
It was serviced regularly at that dealership and at a garage on the New Jersey Shore (Lavallette).
Oil changes averaged out at 8,500 miles.
Both sway bar links had been changed.
It had a transmission D&F at 68K
It had an AWD differential fluid change a little later.
It had both O2 sensors changed in response to codes only a few thousand miles apart.
The owner brought it in on two occasions to secure flopping chassis plastic.
It had its airbag recall done.
It was in for brakes regularly throughout its life and recently before it was traded in.
My friend did OK.

PLAN: I'll offer to do another trannie and diff D&F as well as a coolant D&F.

QUESTION: A receipt from Safelite (windshield repair) was coded, "MWSREPAIR" and cost $129. Anybody know?

Cheers,
 
Mobile Wind Shield Repair. For $129 I'd guess they cleaned up some chips. That's too low for a new one?
 
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Those are pretty handy cars.All vinyl flooring seats fold etc,handy and come in AWD too.And the orig selling dealer is a pretty good dealership.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira

It had a transmission D&F at 68K
It had an AWD differential fluid change a little later.

Seeing this would bring a smile to my face. If they swapped the trans fluid then you know it was not neglected. If someone claims "well maintained" I want to see proof that the trans fluid has been changed at a reasonable mileage and that the brake fluid has been changed every 4 years minimum. Those services are performed by people who know how to maintain a car and make it last, not by someone who wants to maximize ROI.

Flush the brake fluid ASAP, although I fear the damage has been done by now.
 
Only one windshield receipt? Im surprised.

Bought my ex wife one of these - never seen so many cracked windshields in my life. She lost about one a year.

Aside from that its a pretty neat little rig - great for dogs.

UD
 
Those old Honda’s are the best of the breed. Too bad they went with the CVT on late models. That’s fine to get it out the door and for the 2 year traders but sucks for us folks who like em older. I used to love to pick up my Honda’s at around 125. No way I’d go near one with CVT and that mileage though. Can’t even much find a standard anymore sadly.
 
Originally Posted By: Driz
Those old Honda’s are the best of the breed. Too bad they went with the CVT on late models. That’s fine to get it out the door and for the 2 year traders but sucks for us folks who like em older. I used to love to pick up my Honda’s at around 125. No way I’d go near one with CVT and that mileage though. Can’t even much find a standard anymore sadly.


Just to clarify, the Elements never had CVT's. Fortunately, Honda has a great track record with their CVT's.
 
I thought the Element was unloved by most? more of a niche vehicle?

Sounds like your friend got what they wanted. Good by me.
 
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Originally Posted By: maxdustington


Flush the brake fluid ASAP, although I fear the damage has been done by now.


What damage would that be?


My car had what most likely was 200k km brake fluid, it was green. Every caliper had a bunch of black junk in it, I found this even after I flushed because I rebuilt every brake caliper. My RR caliper had brake fluid in the dust boot and both of my rear brake calipers did not function very well since I got the car and probably for a while before. They started working well again when I rebuilt them. I also had the master and power booster replaced before I rebuilt the rear calipers chasing the problem, I think they were toast though anyway.

The fluid was greenish black in the entire system, not just near the wheels. My MC, ABS pump, Prop valve, everything was exposed to that fluid. Flushing could not even remove all the contaminants as the bleeders are are the top of the calipers. It made me realize that a good chunk of brake lines probably rust from in the inside out at least partially. I had the two calipers furthest away from the MC stop working (PITTED rotors, not just rust) but could still be actuated by the parking brake. The RR caliper was the farthest from the MC and the most damaged.

Old brake fluid will definitely screw your calipers up, imagine what it can do to an ABS pump. Untouched bleeders can be a pain, but it is not hard to DIY even with ABS. My story is anecdotal evidence but both rear calipers not functioning is good enough correlation for me.

Changing brake fluid = PO with above average automotive knowledge
Changing ATF = PO with average automotive knowledge. With cars that are becoming more and more difficult to swap fluid in, this might be(come) above average automotive knowledge.

Doing these things early and regularly helps the car survive at high mileages. I think that's what I would be looking for if I was looking to drop a serious chunk of change on a used car. Well maintained to a BITOGer is different than well maintained to normies.
 
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I dunno, not sure I'd fear unchanged brake fluid that much. It's not good, but I've had calipers go bad even with 2-3 year fluid changes. And plenty of cars are on the road with 10 year old fluid that are going to turn into twenty year old cars with twenty year old brake fluid.

I picked up my Camry with what I presume is original brake fluid (the ATF certainly looked original--and nasty). Brake fluid came out green. Year plus later I decided to pull some more fluid--I figure, it's cheap, so I should just pull fluid once/year on my fleet. Stuff came out almost as green as last time.
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Brakes work fine, ABS works fine too. Car had 140k/225kkm when I got it, now it's 184k/294kkm on the clock.
 
A couple of years ago I picked up one of those Harbor Freight brake flush gizmos and changed fluid in the whole fleet which at the time included the 86 Samurai with 125K (original fluid I bet), 02 Xterra with 140K, 06 Grand Cherokee with 100K, and 07 GMC 2500 Duramax with 110K. Yes the fluid was dirty but no brake components were obviously damaged or not functioning correctly AFAIK. The brakes did firm up in the Samurai.

I'd change out the brake fluid in the Element but wouldn't worry much about damaged parts because of it.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
I dunno, not sure I'd fear unchanged brake fluid that much. It's not good, but I've had calipers go bad even with 2-3 year fluid changes. And plenty of cars are on the road with 10 year old fluid that are going to turn into twenty year old cars with twenty year old brake fluid.

I picked up my Camry with what I presume is original brake fluid (the ATF certainly looked original--and nasty). Brake fluid came out green. Year plus later I decided to pull some more fluid--I figure, it's cheap, so I should just pull fluid once/year on my fleet. Stuff came out almost as green as last time.
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Brakes work fine, ABS works fine too. Car had 140k/225kkm when I got it, now it's 184k/294kkm on the clock.

Have you had two rear calipers display the exact same symptoms at the same time? Mind you, I did not notice until after I bought the car and it did sit for 8 months before I started driving it. As I stated before, the two calipers furthest from the MC malfunctioning in the same way at the same time filled with junk and original brake fluid. What else am I supposed to conclude?

You removed a green fluid and replaced it with a clear one that that did not concern you at all? I was very concerned when I saw that.

Originally Posted By: AZjeff
A couple of years ago I picked up one of those Harbor Freight brake flush gizmos and changed fluid in the whole fleet which at the time included the 86 Samurai with 125K (original fluid I bet), 02 Xterra with 140K, 06 Grand Cherokee with 100K, and 07 GMC 2500 Duramax with 110K. Yes the fluid was dirty but no brake components were obviously damaged or not functioning correctly AFAIK. The brakes did firm up in the Samurai.

I'd change out the brake fluid in the Element but wouldn't worry much about damaged parts because of it.


My car had two partially siezed rear calipers at 160k, rust belt?

I can do all four circuits in my car with a litre which is $10, that's $5 a year for fresh brake fluid. I have to change to my snows and service the brakes every so often, so I am there anyway. It's literally the cheapest fluid (not by volume) you can change in your car, and can make an impact if it has been neglected.

Anytime a cheap part like a bushing or fluid can make a difference you can feel, that's a great value that you should not pass up.
 
Not at the same time, no. I had one caliper that wouldn't turn in at 160k, then its replacement did the same at I think 120k later. One out of the set, I wasn't the only one to notice the rear calipers were prone to this issue. I blamed the car. More recently, couple years ago I had one actually seize up on my truck; just one side.

Yes the green fluid bothered me. it still motors on though.
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What am I to do, replace all the brake parts because they might be bad? Only buy new cars or buy ones with meticulous records? even the latter will have failures.

I don't believe flushing will get pristine fluid in the caliper. they like to rust in the bore, and its not like the fluid is getting power flushed down in there. Hopefully any contamination is diluted.

One shouldn't draw too much conclusion from one data point.
 
Hey I agree brake fluid should be changed far more often that it is but just wouldn't assume the system has been damaged in a 10 year old Honda. Change it and drive on.

In NW Pa were I migrated from frozen rear calipers were almost expected after a certain age because of the road salt. The early 2000s Chevy trucks were notorious for it, we bought a used 95 Grand Prix that had no rear brakes, frozen solid.
 
When calipers start dragging on my BMWs, It is time to take them apart, and clean them up. Bleeders on top? You want to lube the slides anyway. De mount the caliper and hang on a wire Rig a gravity bleed. let them drip while you pour fresh brake fluid into the MC, When you are dripping clear BF, close bleeder.
 
Early Elements had a windshield recall for cracking. There was a TSB about windshield replacement installation. I had one replaced on Honda and haven't had a problem on a 2003 model.

I had an O2 that needed replacement.

I had a sway bar link that needed replacement.

I need to replace all 4 sway bar bushings because they harden and glaze with age. Around $40 parts and easy to replace.

Good idea to change brake fluid and silicon grease the brake caliper pins every 3 years.

Good idea to adjust the valves at 100K. You don't want to burn your exhaust valves if they are too tight.

Good idea to change the automatic transmission fluid every 50K. (I have a manual transmission.)

Check the oil religiously. Honda had some problems with oil control rings in their K24 engines. I haven't had a problem with oil consumption.

Most trouble free vehicle I have owned.
 
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