2017 Toyota Sienna filter

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We are considering buying a 2017 sienna so I was researching changing oil on one. What a complicated mess that is compaired to a regular filter. I am used to the plain old Chevy spin the old one off spin the new one no o rings on the drain plug or filter housing.

I know of some of the issues from reading on here with the after market filters in the German vehicles but is that the same for the Toyota’s also? I like to shop the bargains on rock auto for filters.

Another question is on the filter housing removal tool. What style is the best?
 
What I like about doing the filter change on my 2017 Highlander V6 is no mess. Filter tools all over the Internet buy one with good reviews.
 
It isn’t that I can’t do it or that it takes that much more time, it is just something I have never dealt with.
 
Not so bad. Get a tool with flutes and slots. It is better to not use a 3/8" socket if the housing is really tight.
I had trouble with one.
Otherwise it's no big deal.
I used to work at a service station in the early 70's so I did a bunch of pre 1968 Chevy canister oil filters.
 
It’s not really hard just different. We just did an 18 RAV and it was no big deal. Just remember to change the O rings and if you can drain the filter by pulling the center drain (3/8 ratchet extension size) first. Then stick that plastic tube in there to drain it . Otherwise it’ll be a bit messy and run all over. You will need the special wrench with the notches to loosen the housing. We got ours at advance auto . Auto zone has them but they’re $15 instead of $12 and both rate sort of poorly but advance offers free lifetime replacement which might come in handy. The box says NO AIR GUNS which makes perfect sense but some folks need reminding.
 
Yes get a oil filter wrench. I got the toyota oem one that doesn not have the slots on it but i think the after market ones that engage the tabs are better. Get the bug 1/2” socket to engage to it and a cheater bar for the first time you trmove it. The delaership torques the [censored] out of it unnecessarily. (Probably to discourage diy).

I get 5-10 toyota oem filters from ebay for $4 to $5 each shiped. They are good filters.

I dont bother with the prefrainng the filter as i have never got that to work without getting oil all over my hands anyway.

Just crank the canister off after the sump is drained. The. Change both orings while off the car. Rplace the filter and reinstall.

Just a bit more work but enough o erk you as to why they didnt leave well enough alone. Be happy it doesnt have a plastic housing like the corollas. They like to break and stick to themetsl thread.
frown.gif
 
I have the tool that doesn't have the slots, just the flutes. It likes to jam itself on the filter, but so far, no real issues. Some day I'll get the slotted tool. I don't use the predrain feature, maybe some day I'll try it. Yeah it's more messy, but I don't think it's all that bad. That's why I wear gloves.

I bought my filters off ebay for $40 for 10 filters, OEM. I think some of the deals come with crush washers too. Shop around. Might as well stock up on cabin filters (I'm assuming this has cabin filters?), I find mine are kinda nasty after a year. Might as well find a deal and have some on the shelf.
 
IMHO, the procedure is not any more messier than conventional spin-on style oil changes like my '15 Sienna. No oil drips or splashes on the underbody frame and just takes longer to perform if you choose to utilize the housing Predrain feature. Plus I don't need to jack the heavy van up and able to squeeze myself under the bumper to gain access to everything in clear sight. Since many posters here spend time to cut open the can to inspect condition and unusual fallout, this design seems quite beneficial with that aspect. The tool I use is the ABN 8060 as it grabs the meaty section of the housing. Just like previous response, this tool sometimes wedges itself so you have to be mindful and gingerly tap the tool to dislodge itself. The filter housing torque spec is 25N-m, housing predrain cap is 12.5N-m, and the drain plug is 40N-m via 14mm socket. The filter I use now is the Toyota OEM 04152-YZZA1. I did use a Purolator L25608 also with no fitment issues too. 0W-20 is the grade I used with both Mobil1 AFE and previously Quaker State Ultimate Durability at 6.4qts. I cannot recommend an oil brand because I believe the '17MY changed to direct injection or GDI and there's been several debatable threads about selecting an oil brand with better "volatility" characteristics that may aid in combating dirty intake valves with GDI. Because of this, some people have been drastically reducing OCI from 10K or servicing the PVC or EGR system more regularly. My '15MY is not applicable so I do not have anything useful to add on this specific topic. Best of luck.
 
Well the one I was working a deal on got sold out from underneath us. The salesman was out for a bit today and some other gal sold it without asking him. I know it sounds like a scam but it isn't.

I saw the filter deals on ebay and amazon. Looks like the way to go. I can even find some that include the filter wrench.

After seeing how the transmission fluid is checked the oil filter doesn't seam so bad.

From the looks of it the 17s have a combination of direct injection and port injection.
 
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Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Mann and Mahle make good filters for the 2GR in your Sienna
smile.gif


Mahle OX414D1
Mann HU 7019z


I LOVE Mahle oil filters for the Toyota cartridge system. They have a rubber injected "o-ring" of sorts at each end of the filter to help seal to the housing. I believe it's a perfect OEM design... and only a couple dollars more than Toyota's OEM ($6ish -vs- $4ish). They even include the torque values for both the drain plug and cartridge housing in the package for quick reference. The only other filter I've seen use the o-rings is Toyota's own TRD synthetic filter that I'm currently running.
 
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The oc you are describing has too much drama. Buy an extra oil filter housing and treat it as a spin-oil filter.

Toyota oil filter housing

I have a Toyota V6 and use my extra oil housing to do the swap without getting up, I drop the oil filter and then install the new oil filter. Easy
 
Originally Posted By: Patrick0525
The oc you are describing has too much drama. Buy an extra oil filter housing and treat it as a spin-oil filter.

Toyota oil filter housing

I have a Toyota V6 and use my extra oil housing to do the swap without getting up, I drop the oil filter and then install the new oil filter. Easy


That's a good idea. I wonder if they have an adbv and bypass function in the engine. Nice cap for the price, wonder what the object is in the center tube in their picture. The center tube looks just like the Toyota can oil filter.
 
I have a 2012 Highlander and it was my first vehicle with a cartridge filter. I had similar feelings to you, and they turned out to be unfounded. In some ways, I actually like it better.

Thoughts/observations:
1) Don't bother with the center drain hole. I've never had mine off. I leave it on. I save some of the small o-rings to have just in case it ever starts leaking--at that point I'll replace it. It isn't worth the hassle otherwise. I just spin off the filter casing and dump the oil like I would with an old fashioned filter. Easy peasy.
2) DO replace the large o-ring every time. Use a pick or screwdriver to get the old o-ring off. Oil up the new one and make sure you get it in the exact same groove. It is obvious and it is unlikely you'll mess it up. Before I put in the cartridge I usually wipe out the casing with a paper towel. I don't think it is necessary. It is just me being anal.
3) On my vehicle, hand tightening the filter casing is perfect. I can fully seat it by hand.
4) You can get OEM Toyota filters for cheap on Amazon or eBay. That's what I normally buy. I'll stock up. However, I got some Supertech filters for 75 cents each and they work fine too. I've used Fram, Purolator and M1. All worked fine for me.
 
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Originally Posted By: Patrick0525
The oc you are describing has too much drama. Buy an extra oil filter housing and treat it as a spin-oil filter. ...
Ah! That made sense after I saw you're only replacing the cap assembly each time, not the entire metal housing. I bought a spare cap assembly, and have considered doing it your way. That way, you can install the new filter with one cap, at the same time your messy old filter with cap is draining.
 
Originally Posted By: Patrick0525
The oc you are describing has too much drama. Buy an extra oil filter housing and treat it as a spin-oil filter.

Toyota oil filter housing

I have a Toyota V6 and use my extra oil housing to do the swap without getting up, I drop the oil filter and then install the new oil filter. Easy


That is an excellent idea. I see several listings on eBay that have a filter, the cap, and tool together.

We have found a 2014 xle with 77k on it for a good price so hopefully we can make a deal on it.

From talking with some other people the dealer we were looking at the 2017 at is known for selling vehicles out from under people.
 
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