OK to use Rotella T6 5w30 in a 2008 Civic R18?

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It calls for 5w20 or 0w20, and that is what I've been using on the car. Usually a house brand synthetic or a name-brand syn when on sale.

But since I got the T6 for free, and the car takes exactly 4 quarts which is the size of the gallons of T6 I got, I thought I'd consider using it on the Civic. However, the T6 is a thicker 5w30, almost a 40, on a car that specs 0/5w20

If using the thick 5w30 is not a good idea in the R18, I can get the Napa Synthetic (Synpower) 0w20 for 2.99/qt this week. Or perhaps the SMitty's 5w20 at Kmart for 1.99/qt

I used Purolators in the past, but I don't anymore for obvious reasons. The next oil change it gets will be the new silicone PH7317, which is what the A02 is.

The OCI is the one suggested by the MM, usually around 6k, give or take.
 
I'd run it. HTHS 3.5 or slightly above is no huge change. Free oil= run that and keep on trucking in my book
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Engines in general are tolerant or even thrive on a lot more oils than most are spec'd for these days. No worries especially if you are going thicker IMO.

I have a host of 20 grade vehicles (supposedly) but they all get 30's or right now the KIA is on 0w40. Never a problem. The best UOA I ever had on my Jeep was on an oil a grade higher than specified (10w40).

JMO.
 
Yes, 5W-30 will work fine but it is not necessary either.

Also, can you do me a favor and not replace every functional wear component on the Honda with aftermarket parts?
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Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
It calls for 5w20 or 0w20, and that is what I've been using on the car. Usually a house brand synthetic or a name-brand syn when on sale.

But since I got the T6 for free, and the car takes exactly 4 quarts which is the size of the gallons of T6 I got, I thought I'd consider using it on the Civic. However, the T6 is a thicker 5w30, almost a 40, on a car that specs 0/5w20

If using the thick 5w30 is not a good idea in the R18, I can get the Napa Synthetic (Synpower) 0w20 for 2.99/qt this week. Or perhaps the SMitty's 5w20 at Kmart for 1.99/qt

I used Purolators in the past, but I don't anymore for obvious reasons. The next oil change it gets will be the new silicone PH7317, which is what the A02 is.

The OCI is the one suggested by the MM, usually around 6k, give or take.
How'd you get it free? Yep, SN, run with no worries.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Engines in general are tolerant or even thrive on a lot more oils than most are spec'd for these days. No worries especially if you are going thicker IMO.

I have a host of 20 grade vehicles (supposedly) but they all get 30's or right now the KIA is on 0w40. Never a problem. The best UOA I ever had on my Jeep was on an oil a grade higher than specified (10w40).

JMO.


LOL, I'm running 2 Kias on GC 0w-40 now, smoother and gave me better gas mileage too compared to PP 5w-30.
 
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I had a 2010 Honda Civic with that R18. Ran 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 5w40, 0w40 in it without an issue. When I ran 5w50 once - it felt a little sluggish and slight hit on fuel economy (35mpg instead of usual 37mpg Hwy). Run your 5w30 T6 and keep your trans fluid fresh red.
 
Originally Posted By: Vladiator
I had a 2010 Honda Civic with that R18. Ran 0w20, 5w20, 5w30, 5w40, 0w40 in it without an issue. When I ran 5w50 once - it felt a little sluggish and slight hit on fuel economy (35mpg instead of usual 37mpg Hwy). Run your 5w30 T6 and keep your trans fluid fresh red.


ATF is also changed according to the MM. I typically use Castrol Full Synthetic ATF. It is still nice and red
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