Torque Limits

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The limiting factor isn't the socket. It is the diameter ,grade and pitch of th bolt. If you split a socket, you were abusing it.
 
I think if you take 3/8 ratchet over 100ft/lbs regularly you will either break it or wear it out quickly unless it is snappy or hazet level.

1/4 50 ft/lbs?

I wouldn't go near those figures with say a SK round head or Craftsman RP. Certainly not with a cheap imported ratchet.
 
None listed that I know of. But my brother has stood on a 3/8" ratchet when working on suspension parts...with a 4' breaker bar so the answer is "more than you can supply with your hands"
 
The weakest point is the square drive on the ratchet. You wont break a brand name tool using it by hand as intended, cheap tools can be another story.
 
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
I think if you take 3/8 ratchet over 100ft/lbs regularly you will either break it or wear it out quickly unless it is snappy or hazet level.

1/4 50 ft/lbs?

I wouldn't go near those figures with say a SK round head or Craftsman RP. Certainly not with a cheap imported ratchet.


There's some guy on YouTube that tested ratchets, including the cheap (you know the one)and top tier stuff to failure under high loads. The cheap ones were just about as good as the best. Go figure. The cheap ones are probably heavier, thicker and can't get into the tight spaces the top tier ones can. Can mean the difference between getting the job done and not. Its not just about ultimate strength.
 
I know my 3/8 drive Snap on torque wrench goes from 10-100 lbs ft. My 1/2" goes from 40-250. I can't remember what the 1/4 and the 3/4 go to but I'd guess the 1/4 is probably up to 30 lb ft and the 3/4 is 600??

I use those ratings as a guideline.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
The weakest point is the square drive on the ratchet. You wont break a brand name tool using it by hand as intended, cheap tools can be another story.


My ex-GF's father bust my HILKA ratchet NO BOTHER, and HILKA were a pretty good brand then. It failed in the mechanism and flew apart. Square drive was OK IIRC.

I don't understand this talk of "standing" on a ratchet. Suggests you're using a ratchet when you shouldn't be to me, which seems to be general practice on here.

When I don't need a ratchet I don't use one. I THINK a T-bar is a lot stronger.
 
That's true. I usually don't break stuff loose with a ratchet. I have breaker bars in all drive sizes. I have ratchets that I've had for forty years and have only opened them up for service. The sealed Snap ons never need anything. I oil them for something to do sometimes.
 
If you stand on a ratchet you can orient it perfectly horizontal for best effect. I've put a pipe onine. A half inch square could easily do 600-700 ft lbs and that's harbor freight grade stuff.
 
I use a breaker bar, or the 30 some tooth craftsman ratchet. I have blackhawk ( 1/2 and 3/8) 72 tooth ratchets, that i use for stuff thats already broken free.
 
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I've broken sockets, ratchets and powerbars at times - in the real world of everyday repair sometimes you need to step over the limits of what you have. With my Tipco 3/4 set, you can remove the ratchet head and fit the T bar...which is bent because at times I've fitted 2 metres on pipe to it. Without the bar, the ratchet is short to work like a flexhead.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: Trav
The weakest point is the square drive on the ratchet. You wont break a brand name tool using it by hand as intended, cheap tools can be another story.


My ex-GF's father bust my HILKA ratchet NO BOTHER, and HILKA were a pretty good brand then. It failed in the mechanism and flew apart. Square drive was OK IIRC.

I don't understand this talk of "standing" on a ratchet. Suggests you're using a ratchet when you shouldn't be to me, which seems to be general practice on here.

When I don't need a ratchet I don't use one. I THINK a T-bar is a lot stronger.


I use a ratchet as a ratchet not a breaker bar, if it needs a breaker bar that's what I use. Most of the time I use impact guns and air ratchets. Most people dont have the tool selection I have so they use what they have to get the job done which is okay too.



Edit: This is a worthwhile video but this guy uses some crude language (not for me) but if you easily offended don't watch this. Mods please remove if inappropriate but please link to it as it is informational.
 
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Here are my ratchets.

I have a Klutch breaker bar thats 30 inch. The craftsman in the pic is 18inch. The breaker bar in the pic is not bent, its the curvature of my cheap camera lens!

I am using Trav's advice and i'm keeping the heads in a coffee can of atf.




 
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that seems unnecessarily messy to me. I use Phil Wood Tenacious Oil on a lot of things, some of them being ratchets. Stuff sticks like glue. Pretty amazing oil.
 
I throw mine in a can of ATF on Friday night when I was done working and let them sit on a paper towel for a few min on Monday AM.
Some of those ratchets are over 30 years old and never been rebuild despite doing 8rs a day work.
ATF is a good lube, think about it, some manual transmissions use it in place of 90wt for smoother shifting of the gears but it still protects them.

The Snap On are sealed heads so they don't go in the pot but the rest all do and every one works nice and smooth. Even now when I not working they still go in on Friday just from a 40 year habit.
 
Interesting info so far. I have a 36mm socket with a 3/8" drive. A 36mm socket is commonly used for axle nuts. Axle nuts require often around 150 ft lbs. That seems to me a lot of torque for a 3/8" drive. I'd like to rephrase my original question. What's the maximum torque you can put on a 1/4", 3/9" and 1/2" drive respectively without damaging the drive? Let's say you are using a breaker bar, even though you'd likely be using a torque wrench that is rated appropriately.
 
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