Sonata rear brakes

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
23,726
Location
NH
Friend of mine just said he needs rear brakes on a 2011 Sonata. I just YouTube'd how to do the job, got that much. I don't know his budget yet, nor if I need to get rotors just yet, but I'll assume he wants budget. Yet decent quality. OEM or is AutoZone et all "better"? I will probably be able to mail order parts if need be.

Also, the vid said it had phenolic pistons. Can I use the usual disc brake tool, or do I need something special?
 
You might as well replace the rotors anyway, since they are very easy to slide off and back on once you take the pads out.

The best rotors to get are EBC Premium, Centric Premium, or Wagner E-shield. Coated rotors really *do* make a difference! Non0coated rotors will rust overnight, but the coated ones really do help keep the rust off. They don;'t last forever, but they do last quite awhile!

Pair them with Akebono ProACT or EBC Ultimax2 pads
smile.gif
 
Hmmn,rear brakes on a 7 yr old Sonata.If the rotors aren't chewed up, how about doing a relube on the slides and a simple pad swap
 
Phenolic pistons just mean the material it's made out of, so use your usual brake compressor tool that'll fit.

Some phenolic pistons might swell over time and prevent new pads from releasing after braking so go for a short test drive after all's said and done.
 
Originally Posted By: andyd
Hmmn,rear brakes on a 7 yr old Sonata.If the rotors aren't chewed up, how about doing a relube on the slides and a simple pad swap
+1 depends on how rusty they are.

When mine needs brakes, front or rear, it'll just get a pad slap.
 
Thanks on the pistons.

I'll ask and see if they are original. If so then I'll assume they need to be replaced. 7 years is a long time for rotors. Mine are always grooved and kinda ratty after 5. If I can, I'll see if I can do an inspection first, as a pad slap would be easiest & cheapest!
 
After watching the youtube video on this vehicle, what a pain in the rear end.

Need to move the lower control arm and shock out about 1/16th of an inch to get at the lower caliper bracket bolt?

I would not do this job myself on jackstands.

Aligning that control arm is going to be fun, and putting it all back together.

If the rear rotors are serviceable, I would pay a shop to replace the pads, and let them machine the rotors with an on car brake lathe.
 
I didn't get the impression that it would mess with alignment. Looks like poor engineering but nothing that bad really. Two extra bolts and a jack to hold it up, not exactly awful.
 
Originally Posted By: supton
I didn't get the impression that it would mess with alignment. Looks like poor engineering but nothing that bad really. Two extra bolts and a jack to hold it up, not exactly awful.


No not wheel alignment. I was talking about lining up the control arm with the hole to get the bolt into it.
 
Just did this on my daughter's car. I like the price/performance of the Raybestos coated rotors and their service grade pads for rear and professional pads for the front. The whole rear job with coated rotors and pads from rockauto was about $60 shipped.
 
When I did the rears on my 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe AWD back around 2011, I wound up busting up some of the P-brake hardware in the process because the rotors were SO stuck on. Each little piece of the P-brake hardware was a dealer only part at the time. Other than that, it was you typical rear brake job, where the parking brake is built into the hat of the rotor. I think I used Carquest or Napa pads and rotors at the time. Not awfully expensive IIRC.

If I were you, I would run the car around with the parking brake on to wear some clearance so those rotors come off. I didn't know this trick back then.
 
Last edited:
Raybestos is good? Ok, I'll check with my friend and see if he wants to go that route. Cheap enough.

 
The pads are good but look for different rotors like the ones mentioned above. The Raybestos rotors don't paint the backside of the rotors which may result in early rust there. Below is from a different thread.

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
What about the Raybestos coated rotors? I never see you mention them.


Raybestos doesn't coat the inside of the hat, so they will stick to the hub. Centric and Wagner do coat the inside hat, so they will not freeze to the hub. Also, Raybestos usually costs more than the other brands I mentioned.

Here's an example, for the 8th gen Civic (select any year from 2006-2011 on Rock Auto)

Raybestos
980059_BAC__ra_p.jpg


Centric
CE_12040056_Bac__ra_p.jpg


Wagner
MWG_BD126055E_P01_BAC__ra_p.jpg
 
Last edited:
I'm actually not sure what painted rotors are supposed to do. Everything rusts, including the braking surface. In this application, the end user has steel wheels, so the rotors are not visible. Would unpainted work just fine?

I don't recall having issues with rotor removal on most of my cars. Once I put some gray anti seize onto the mating surfaces, seizing seems to be held to a minimum.

Will these painted rotors have the edges of the rotor painted? In my experience, rust starts at the edges of the braking surface, and if the rotor gets old enough, the braking surface starts to lift. Granted, that means its time to replace. Point is, is that avoided?
 
Done. Hour fifteen per side? Most of it was spent fighting with the pads, they just wouldn't slide nicely. I cleaned the caliper bracket of rust, but I've seen this before, where pads just need a bit of filing to slide cleanly. Used Raybestos parts. Goofed on one side, put rotor on then the bracket, had left the screws off so I could jiggle it all together. Yep. Rotor was off so the screws couldn't go in. Oh well, it ain't going anywhere. Plus that side has to all come apart anyhow: zero lining on the parking brake. That side was clearly dead and not doing anything--the shoes had a thick layer of rust where the lining should have been, so they were not making contact.

In the end I did not have to touch the shock. I removed the bolt on the control arm and was able to pry it out enough to get the bracket off. It was getting dark, and I was getting tired, but I think removing the screws then getting the rotor loose before tackling the caliper bracket might work. I have to wonder if the control arm has to be touched once the rotor is floating. If I ever do it again I'm going to try that--I did but it was dark and the mind was calling it quits at that point.
 
Thanks for the update. Probably similar to mine, which will need brakes all around this winter sometime.
 
Dawned on me this morning: I might not need to fix that parking brake. Given how much of a pain it is to pull the rotor, I have to doubt any shop is going to be willing to do so for on a $50 inspection. Whew, wasn't looking forward to messing with drum brakes!

However at least one flex line was looking kinda scaly, that might need replacing before long. I was going to crack the bleeders before compressing the pistons, but one was stuck and I didn't want to break anything at the time.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top