Calling Demarpaint...

[sleddriver]

I'm replacing a lower Masonite panel insert in a 33yr old wooden garage door. I was able to remove it this evening after a hour of slicing the wood stile & rail back. Fortunately, I have some 1/4" hard-on-both-sides brown panel I use for jig work. I'm surprised the manufacturer used Masonite (with one side rough). Explains the doors weight. Plywood would have been lighter!

My painting plan is to prime with Kelly-Moore white exterior primer, including all edges, then top with KM exterior latex I used on the house. Sound good?

I'm not used to using Masonite for exterior work. The backside of the door isn't even primed, much less painted. It has held up well though, including the paint.

TIA.

 

[demarpaint]

Good plan. I'm not familiar with Kelly-Moore paint. Is the primer an exterior oil primer? If so that's what I'd use and top it with the Latex after it has dried for at least 24 hours. Don't paint the inside of the door, that's where it will breathe from.

 

[AZjeff]

Good info. What would happen if the inside got painted?

 

[sleddriver]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Good plan. I'm not familiar with Kelly-Moore paint. Is the primer an exterior oil primer? If so that's what I'd use and top it with the Latex after it has dried for at least 24 hours. Don't paint the inside of the door, that's where it will breathe from.
No, it's not oil-based. I've had very good luck with it though. It works great on bare cedar & prevents bleed-through. A gallon is very, very heavy.

KM paint is a local (to my area at least) product used throughout Texas. I buy it at a pro-paint store, like BM, SW, etc.

I'll leave the back of the panels and the replacement unprimed if you say so. I will seal all of the edges. I'll be using caulk on the front to seal the joint between the rail & insert since it's at the bottom of the door and vulnerable to splash-back from the concrete driveway.

Thanks DP!

 

[Revving2Redline]

It allows for moisture to escape. If you sealed it all in then anything trapped inside would be pulled out as the sun would draw to the surface. That why deck boards aren't sealed underneath and that you really cant as a nail or screw breaks the seal anyway

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Marco620
It allows for moisture to escape. If you sealed it all in then anything trapped inside would be pulled out as the sun would draw to the surface. That why deck boards aren't sealed underneath and that you really cant as a nail or screw breaks the seal anyway


Well said Marco. He nailed it sleddriver.

Latex primers are OK, I suggested oil because of its ability to better seal the surface, and block staining. In your case staining shouldn't be that much of an issue though. Still oil is a better sealer, however both will work. Everything else you mentioned is fine.

If the inside of the door is already painted there isn't much you can do. If you're going for looks and say replaced one panel on a door and the others were painted then apply a latex primer and top coat it with one coat of latex paint and call it a day. Skip the oil primer and two coats of finish on the inside.

Make sure the rubber gasket on the bottom of the door is not damaged and keeps the door itself slightly off the ground. What you want is to have the travel of the door set so that the gasket slightly bulges out, makes a good seal with the slab, but isn't fully compressed and crushed flat causing puddles between it and the garage door when it rains.

 

[doitmyself]

I was told that oil base primer was more like a stain rather than paint and that it could breath moisture with a topcoat of latex. Not true?

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Good plan. I'm not familiar with Kelly-Moore paint. Is the primer an exterior oil primer? If so that's what I'd use and top it with the Latex after it has dried for at least 24 hours. Don't paint the inside of the door, that's where it will breathe from.

I haven't really painted extensively since doing it for a summer while in college, but I thought latex paint over oil primer was not recommended?
Am I just way behind the times with that thinking?

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I was told that oil base primer was more like a stain rather than paint and that it could breath moisture with a topcoat of latex. Not true?


Oil primer is just that, a primer not a stain. The confusion comes in where the coverage is not as good because the oil penetrates and seals better, so some might think it is a solid stain because of the look. What I am referring to here is a traditional exterior oil base primer, slow drying which penetrates deeper into the wood, or Masonite in this case, and seals it better.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Good plan. I'm not familiar with Kelly-Moore paint. Is the primer an exterior oil primer? If so that's what I'd use and top it with the Latex after it has dried for at least 24 hours. Don't paint the inside of the door, that's where it will breathe from.

I haven't really painted extensively since doing it for a summer while in college, but I thought latex paint over oil primer was not recommended?
Am I just way behind the times with that thinking?


Oil primers are some of the best primers for top coating with either latex or oil paint. What you said is partially true though if you're talking about a finish coat. If you had trim that was finished with oil paint and top coated it with latex w/o properly prepping it, and sanding it to give the surface some tooth you could have a problem with some paints. The same is true for the opposite. It is usually best to stick with oil paint over oil paint, and latex over latex, unless you prep and prime in between. But using latex paint over an oil primer is a great combo. HTH