Ram 1500 specs 135 ft lbs. but previous owner used neberseeze in lug studs. How much should I reduce toque on wrench? I will clean the threads as best as can with terry cloth but we must assume “some” residue.
Reduce TORQUE to COMPENSATE for lubed threads?
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For applications where it matters, they say many things.
IIRC I've seen recomendations ranging from 20 to 50% decrease.
But this isn't an application where it matters, so I get around the problem by not using a torque wrench in the first place. I tighten them as much as I can without hurting myself using one hand and a T-bar. If you're stonger than me (most people are) you might adjust the length of the T-bar to get something that seems reasonable.
I'd leave the antiseize where it can do its thing, though as a rule I use polythene sheeting torn from rubbish bags (with a little oil or grease) on wheel studs.
IIRC I've seen recomendations ranging from 20 to 50% decrease.
But this isn't an application where it matters, so I get around the problem by not using a torque wrench in the first place. I tighten them as much as I can without hurting myself using one hand and a T-bar. If you're stonger than me (most people are) you might adjust the length of the T-bar to get something that seems reasonable.
I'd leave the antiseize where it can do its thing, though as a rule I use polythene sheeting torn from rubbish bags (with a little oil or grease) on wheel studs.
Hard to say, but 20% is probably a good starting point.
I recommend cleaning off the anti seize.
I recommend cleaning off the anti seize.
In that torque range I wouldn't sweat it, just leave the Never Seez on and torque to around 120.
With never seize I'd drop to 100 #'s. But you'll know when you start the nuts on by hand. Some studs are pretty rough and the never seize just fills in the pores/craters. They still feel like they have drag. On those I'd prolly go to the factory setting.
But if it feels smooth and buttery, you do not want to over stretch the stud and cause failure; so smooth feeling, 100 would be enough for me
And that's the way to know. Take a factory replacement stud and nut (new) and torque to spec w/o anything. Measure before and after. That's the stretch you are looking for. Now do it with never seize in increments. When you get the same stretch, that's your number. It's all about the stretch ...
But if it feels smooth and buttery, you do not want to over stretch the stud and cause failure; so smooth feeling, 100 would be enough for me
And that's the way to know. Take a factory replacement stud and nut (new) and torque to spec w/o anything. Measure before and after. That's the stretch you are looking for. Now do it with never seize in increments. When you get the same stretch, that's your number. It's all about the stretch ...
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Originally Posted By: Dave9
In that torque range I wouldn't sweat it, just leave the Never Seez on and torque to around 120.
Ditto. If worried, just check periodically. It'll take more than 120 to further tighten, but as long as the torque wrench still clicks at the 120 setting without spinning, then they haven't loosened, and are doing their job.
In that torque range I wouldn't sweat it, just leave the Never Seez on and torque to around 120.
Ditto. If worried, just check periodically. It'll take more than 120 to further tighten, but as long as the torque wrench still clicks at the 120 setting without spinning, then they haven't loosened, and are doing their job.
I'd feel pretty comfortable with 120' lbs. in that situation.
+1 100ft.lb is fine. I wouldn't remove the never seize if the OP is in the salt area.
I agree with 100 to 110 Lb ft is a good value. Ed
135
There's no reason to get cute on a dumb wheel stud. There's a lot of margin there.
There's no reason to get cute on a dumb wheel stud. There's a lot of margin there.
I use anti-sieze on plugs and torque to the low end of the range.
On a wheel, even torque is important.
I use a small amount of anti-on the wheel studs...
Drop 10 pound/feet is you like.
All good.
On a wheel, even torque is important.
I use a small amount of anti-on the wheel studs...
Drop 10 pound/feet is you like.
All good.
"Lubed" and anti-seize are not the same, actual oil or grease, reduce torque 20%.
Actual anti-seize use spec torque.
Actual anti-seize use spec torque.
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
135
There's no reason to get cute on a dumb wheel stud. There's a lot of margin there.
135 on a lubed stud? Yikes!
135
There's no reason to get cute on a dumb wheel stud. There's a lot of margin there.
135 on a lubed stud? Yikes!
JHZR2
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Id clean, first with WD-40 since its cheap and available, then brake cleaner to get the remnant oils. Do so both on the studs and nuts.
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If you go with a reduced number … come back to check them on the next weekend (after some driving) …
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
With never seize I'd drop to 100 #'s. But you'll know when you start the nuts on by hand. Some studs are pretty rough and the never seize just fills in the pores/craters. They still feel like they have drag. On those I'd prolly go to the factory setting.
But if it feels smooth and buttery, you do not want to over stretch the stud and cause failure; so smooth feeling, 100 would be enough for me
And that's the way to know. Take a factory replacement stud and nut (new) and torque to spec w/o anything. Measure before and after. That's the stretch you are looking for. Now do it with never seize in increments. When you get the same stretch, that's your number. It's all about the stretch ...
Yes, all about the strain (stretch), and that's the safest, most reliable measure.
I'd do exactly as you suggest, then work out how far you rotate it after tight to get the stretch...then get in a habit of "angle tightening" to the angle that you've developed.
When I get a new car with a torquespec, I work out the angle on dry studs, then repeat that with the wheel brace after I've applied antisieze.
With never seize I'd drop to 100 #'s. But you'll know when you start the nuts on by hand. Some studs are pretty rough and the never seize just fills in the pores/craters. They still feel like they have drag. On those I'd prolly go to the factory setting.
But if it feels smooth and buttery, you do not want to over stretch the stud and cause failure; so smooth feeling, 100 would be enough for me
And that's the way to know. Take a factory replacement stud and nut (new) and torque to spec w/o anything. Measure before and after. That's the stretch you are looking for. Now do it with never seize in increments. When you get the same stretch, that's your number. It's all about the stretch ...
Yes, all about the strain (stretch), and that's the safest, most reliable measure.
I'd do exactly as you suggest, then work out how far you rotate it after tight to get the stretch...then get in a habit of "angle tightening" to the angle that you've developed.
When I get a new car with a torquespec, I work out the angle on dry studs, then repeat that with the wheel brace after I've applied antisieze.
So how / where do you measure the stretch?
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