Break in filter cut open/ Filtermag

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UncleDave

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Glad I was running the Filtermag vs leaning on this can all the way. The Ridgelines factory unloved Honda A02 held up fine

Even without a timing chain and gears the little honda 3.5 sloughed off a bunch of iron into its initial sump the mag caught.

Had interesting debris that looked like sand but was not it was more of a acetate type film

The Honda MM was telling me I still had 30% remaining but after the heavy tow loads I wanted the initial fill gone and to put something in that was a better filter.

The Honda crowd insist on keeping the break in sump till the MM tells you dump or risk incomplete break in, but I think with a 600mile tow through the hot high desert I can sleep at night.


Replacement was idemitsu 0w-20 and an XG7317 ultra and the filtermag back on again.

UD


 
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I’m wondering if that sand debris was left from the engine casting process?

I am also a fan of the early change out, and if argued the same Moly based oil can go in.
 
The filter certainly looked decent enough and held up fine and the can is suitably thick its got a silicon ADBV and the same bypass piece as an ultra

- but its specs are pretty bad. Ive heard bunch of number for it - all pretty bad something like 50% @ 20 microns.

Good enough for light auto duty - probably lets say sure based on just how many hondas they have protected without incident.

Good enough for truck and towing duty - not to my mind.

Given with Hondas Maintenance Minder it could be allowed to stay in for 20K miles to my mind this isnt constructed like filters rated for 20K.



UD
 
It looked like sand but didn't feel like it between my fingertips..

Regardless - I want it out.

UD
 
Well done all around
smile.gif
 
What flavor Idemitsu 0w20? One of the fancy ones or the AAP clearance stuff? Do you plan on running it to the MM says to change or?

Are you going to run the XG 2x oci’s or one?
 
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I was scrolling up and saw the filter media first and thought it was a fuel filter … that is pretty small …

I’m coming up on 3 years with my Magnafilter (on 4L60e) … gotta figure out a forensic plan for that jewel …
 
It makes me glad I drop the oil and filter early on, in-spite of all the pros and cons threads I've read here......
27.gif
Thanks for posting.
 
Originally Posted By: Balrog006
What flavor Idemitsu 0w20? One of the fancy ones or the AAP clearance stuff? Do you plan on running it to the MM says to change or?

Are you going to run the XG 2x oci’s or one?


Thanks Broc.

I went with the standard 0-20 vs the high moly stuff. I missed all the clearances and paid about 23 bones for the 5 er.

I looked at the high moly formulation and know I can't tell much by one parameter but the noack was something like 14%

I also figure Ive got a bunch of moly leftover from the factory assembly fill still hanging out so I Ill be fine for a while.

I may go with the zpro next fill or change entirely.

After investigating the inner workings of the MM I'm pretty comfortable that its "heat" based algorithm is conservative and will likely follow it.
Depends on how much I tow and what I find on the side of the ultra can next cut and paste.
IF I see a particle reduction I'll be more comfy with the high intervals.

Im running an Ultra. Now that I have a real 20K mile filter in there that can actually filter out a dead squirrel I feel a lot more confident about a 10K OCI and 20K filter change.

With the engine oil and filtration well attended to Im going to focus on the gearboxes now as the Ridgline overdrives the rear dif by 2.7% which comes right out of the clutch pack. Keeping the fluid clean will be paramount to getting the life I'm shooting for.

UD
 
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Originally Posted By: 4WD
I was scrolling up and saw the filter media first and thought it was a fuel filter … that is pretty small …

I’m coming up on 3 years with my Magnafilter (on 4L60e) … gotta figure out a forensic plan for that jewel …


I know right? - Its dinky.

I use that size a lot though and the 3.5 falls right in between my other engines that run that size.

It feels even more ridiculous on my 5.6 Litre VQ56 Titan engine - almost laughable and it "feels" more appropriate for the 750CC Kubota D722 Onan generator.

UD
 
That is why I like to do an early oil change on new components . The trans diffs etc all do the same thing.
 
MOST oil filters are NOT as good as owners think they are!!! these smaller filters are not to my liking for sure, so a filter sees 6 months on a yearly oil change between 5 + 10 thou. retired with a car + truck + 3 bikes doing duty depending on the weather!!!
 
I’ve used a Filtermag as well as a magnet inside of the oil filter. Both caught ferrous particles. Given the low cost, using both are a good idea, in my opinion.

Those particles in your filter look quite large, like filings caused by a file used on steel.
 
They arent the buildup makes it appear that way.

dragging my finger through the muck I couldn't feel individual pieces.

There is also a material that looks like sand but is not - it has the property of acetate


UD
 
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I don't have an issue running the mm all the way to the end... but 30% with a tow ahead of you, you did the right thing, imo.

Our drain plug magnet in the Odyssey always has something on it too.
 
Ill stick magnets wherever I can put em from Filters to drain plugs

Whatever goop is on the drainplug is goop not going through your oil pump gears.
 
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