2002 VolvoPenta 5.0 GXi (270 HP, Gasoline)

[msparks]

As another couple of options.

If you want to stay with a straight weight oil. Amsoil makes a full synth. SAE 30 designed as a diesel oil with a TBN of 12+ it would be perfect for a weekend use boat. The high TBN will help fight the nitration cause by the oil not getting to a proper operating temp.

Also the Amsoil 15w40 blend is a great value. I'm currently using this in my Triumph ST as a breakin-short run before I go to the full syn stuff. I'm only running it 3,000 or so.

 

[TooSlick]

Doc,

Based on oil analysis I've done on boat motors, I'd expect a 5w-40, Group III oil to shear pretty severely in this application. The only 5w-40 I'd use would be Delvac 1, 5w-40, which I've found to be very shear stable. Boat motors run under very high sustained loads and tend to beat up the oil pretty badly.

I think a Group II based, 15w-40 would actually be more stable than the Group III 5w-40 in this case. Id recommend Mobil Delvac 1300 if you decide to go that route ....

TooSlick

 

[QuadDriver]

Doc - the problem I have found with boat engines is oil temp - unlike a car there is no circulating air to cool the pan, hence the oil. You could try an inline cooler....if you want, I can find you a link to a place that sells a dual oil-water cooler that will go on back and replace your PS cooler, you will then need to put a filter relocate kit on both engines so you can 'interrupt' the flow to route the oil thru the cooler. An air-to-oil cooler wont work for the same reason - no meaningful circulation down there.

and IMHO, 5W-anything is too light for a motor that will never see cold ambient temps on startup.

I use 15w-40 amsoil - also against the recommendation of my builder (VP 5.7GSi)

outta curiosity are you running SX or DP drives?

 

[Ryan00TJ]

I second about the hot oil temps in marine engines. My 360 SBC would run 230-250 degrees after WOT running for a few minutes with Mobil 1 0W-40. I then added an engine oil cooler and it dropped temps tremendously. After the same WOT running the oil temp barely hits 220 and has never been higher. Under normal cruising the temp stays 180-190 degrees.

 

[DockHoliday]

Thanks for the input everyone. I have purchased Amsoil 15W40 Marine/Diesel oil, along with Amsoil filters. I was initially put off by the mail order, MLM, "preferred customer program", etc, but it is actually a very simple process and it arrived way before I expected.

darrenc - Have you registered at BoatingABC.Com?

 

[darrenc]

quote:

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Doc - the problem I have found with boat engines is oil temp - unlike a car there is no circulating air to cool the pan, hence the oil. You could try an inline cooler....if you want, I can find you a link to a place that sells a dual oil-water cooler that will go on back and replace your PS cooler, you will then need to put a filter relocate kit on both engines so you can 'interrupt' the flow to route the oil thru the cooler. An air-to-oil cooler wont work for the same reason - no meaningful circulation down there.

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Hey. Didn't I say this on June 26!!!

I think we are all on agreement on this. This is the main reason I like the Amsoil 15W-40 Diesel and Marine oil.

 

[QuadDriver]

quote:

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Originally posted by DockHoliday:
Thanks for the input everyone. I have purchased Amsoil 15W40 Marine/Diesel oil, along with Amsoil filters. I was initially put off by the mail order, MLM, "preferred customer program", etc, but it is actually a very simple process and it arrived way before I expected.

darrenc - Have you registered at BoatingABC.Com?

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Dock - consider adding dual remotes for each motor and using pf35 or pf35l filters

 

[DockHoliday]

quad - Can you give me more info on these dual oil filters? Are those AC/Delco part #s?

BTW - I am running SX drives with SS 3-blade props. I don't get a very good bite in turns and with a heavy load, so I am longing for DP drives, and am considering 4-blade props. Either change should improve low end and mid-range performance, at the expense of top-end, which is fine with me.

[ July 16, 2003, 09:35 AM: Message edited by: DockHoliday ]

 

[QuadDriver]

quote:

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Originally posted by DockHoliday:
quad - Can you give me more info on these dual oil filters? Are those AC/Delco part #s?

BTW - I am running SX drives with SS 3-blade props. I don't get a very good bite in turns and with a heavy load, so I am longing for DP drives, and am considering 4-blade props. Either change should improve low end and mid-range performance, at the expense of top-end, which is fine with me.

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Doc - I have but a single engine in my boat, but I noticed the turn problem and im not convinced thats it not the 'dual cavitation' plate of the VP/SX drive. I added a fin to the upper cav plate, traded off 3mph top end (60 down to 57) but picked up planing at only 2350rpm now and picked up 3mph at 3000rpm due to the extra trim range....since 99% of my boat is at 2800-3000 rpm, Im a happy camper.....mileage came up about a 1/4 point also.

ok the PF35 is the ac delco filter number for the V8, 35L is a longer version - about an extra 1/4qt each.

I cant give links in here I think - against forum rules - but if you found a dealer for 'TD performance products' like at ooooooooohhh say summit racing, you might find the block adaptor (part TRD-1022) for of $15.95 ish, you might find oil hose kits (neoprene over nitrile rubber, 300psi burst) with suaged 1/2" npt ends for $34.75ish each (TRD-1048) and you might find TRD-1030, a dual oil filter bracket for $25.75 - althought it takes the HP1 filter which is simply FRAM for Motorcraft FL1A or GM PF2. So say roughly $90 per engine to move a bunch of filters to where you can get em, easy to tap into for a cooler, and increases sump to 7qts+ per engine.

ps- I have seen you on BABC and Im pretty sure TBMs 2 sites - Iboat and tboat....or am I thinking different guy? I havet he same ID over there, or go by my name in posts....I tend to post over there in spurts...i.e. not too much in the winter.

 

[DockHoliday]

Quad - Thanks for the info. Both my oil and fuel filters are already located right up front (upper right) and are easy to get to. Not sure if there would be room for twin oil filters. I will keep it in mind, but am not motivated to make these kind of changes at this time.

Are you suggesting that the PF35 is a better filter than the Amsoil?

What size is your boat? I would consider the hydrofoils, but everyone says not to use them on larger boats. Not sure how to factor that in since I have twins (should I divide the weight by 2?). Also, my boat is very sensitive to trimming - tabs and drives. I need to trim the boat to get on plane easily, then need to retrim to run efficiently. A tight turn, or even a really big wave, can knock me off plane, requiring me to retrim (twice). The foils may be the answer, but I am reluctant.

BTW - I am active on ABC, TBM, and GBA. I don't do iBoats. However, I really prefer the ABC site - great Admin, allows links to be posted to other sites (that is how I found this site), and in generall a great group of boaters.

[ July 16, 2003, 11:49 AM: Message edited by: DockHoliday ]

 

[darrenc]

No Dock. Haven't had the time to register yet. Too busy with kids. Once you're bun in the oven is done, you know what I mean--even if you already do from an intellectual perspective

Let us know how all this works out. I'm sure you'll find the 15W-40 a good fit with those motors.

d

 

[QuadDriver]

quote:

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Originally posted by DockHoliday:


Are you suggesting that the PF35 is a better filter than the Amsoil?

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not at all. lest I start oil wars 4! lol

however, in flow tests I have seen over the years, GM and hastings (the maker of amsoil unless they recently changed) were similar. I just happen to use AC cause I get em local for
being an ex-amsoil dealer, I humbly submit that adding ones name to a supplied part has as much effect on performance as adding type-R stickers to a car.....

My boat is a CC 21 ultra (a one off boat only made 2 years) - 21' 4" long with an 8.5" beam. it weighs a bit over 3700lb fueled and iced before anyone climbs in - so its a good load for a single 5.7; base motor was a carb 305 I think back then)

back when fins came out, I have some saved articles from Motor boats and sailing and TBM that stated the fins were GREAT on heavy azz-ended boats. now im seeing commentary that having an extra 500lbs or more of lift in the stern aint a great idea....who knows

 

[Steve S]

I sold my boat in about April 03. I am boatless ,this post is for humor, my daughter 10 years old asked me, dad why haven't gone to the lake? my answere was we don't have a boat, duh!! I need a boat.

 

[QuadDriver]

quote:

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Originally posted by DockHoliday:
Sub - These motors are for recreational boaters and are in a 28 foot, 8000 lb boat. Cruise speed is around 3,200 RPM (30 MPH).

Some people have equated that work load of a boat motor to that of a pick up truck pulling a trailer up hill 100% of the time. There is no coasting, always encurring high drag (due to the water).

There is always a dino vs. syn debate amongst boaters because recreational boats aren't used in cold weather, and the engines are cooled by lake water and the USCG mandates a 160 thermastate. Thus, boat motors do not need the extreme temp advantages of synthetics.

Boaters commonly use straight 30 or 40 dino. I have in the past, and have always used Mobil 1 5W30 in my cars. However, this boat is brand spanking new and I want to make sure I get her lubbed properly.

The reason I am lookin gat the Rotella is because it is so affordable. Wally world has it for around $12 per gallon, which is a lot less that Amsoil, plus it is also more convenient to purchase. Keep in mind that I need 12 quarts per oil change.

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btw - didja know that the mandatory thermo stat requirement is to kill things that get sucked in - like zebra mussels