1991 Toyota Previa New JDM engine Redline

[Kurtatron]

Hey Everyone,

This Toyota Previa 1991 had a new JDM engine installed last year. It ran 200 miles on Pennzoil Platinum 5-W30 immediately after the install. It was switched out with Redline 5W-30 and an ansoil EaO filter. This sample is after 1000 miles. Blackstone suggests changing out the oil and checking again after 1000 miles. The sump is huge, 6 quarts. I didn't want to wait after 3 quarts emptied to take a sample. I took a sample after 1.5 quarts had dropped, and the sample was taken after like 6 months of sitting (didn't start it). What do you guys think? They say the wear metals are high. Any suggestions on what I should look for in the engine? It did have slight surface rust on the cam lobes and crank case when installed. No running problems, and no noticeable oil burning in last 1000 miles.

 

[CT8]

A uoa is pretty much a waste of money on a new engine. The syn oils are a waste in this of drain interval as well. Most new engine uoas have higher wear metals and beat up the oil as well.

 

[andyd]

An engine that has lain around with an empty sump is bound to get a little rust from condensation. Likewise, open valves. Granted, it was 50 yrs ago, my buddy Jeff drove a '60 -ish Volvo 544 back east from N California. The car had been sitting and condensation got at it enough so that it developed low oil pressure, from worn out bearings. Prior condition unknown, but Jeff piloted it 2500 miles back to Jersey. When I stored my Dad's spare bug engines, I removed the rockers to close the valves.

 

[Zee09]

Originally Posted By: CT8
A uoa is pretty much a waste of money on a new engine. The syn oils are a waste in this of drain interval as well. Most new engine uoas have higher wear metals and beat up the oil as well.


+4800

 

[JHZR2]

Not entirely sure why redline would be run in this engine. Is it the supercharged version?

Ours was like brand new at 220k-ish miles, and gave stellar UOAs at >10k mile OCIs on regular M1.

Since HM M1 10w-30 is ACEA A3, Id run that with confidence and save the $$.

 

[bullwinkle]

My (limited) experience has been to run short runs of a quality dino oil, preferably with a good enough filter to catch any silicon & iron from break-in, and extend gradually to factory OCI length, THEN put in the high dollar synthetics. Otherwise (like in your case) the high Si & Fe means change it early anyway!

 

[Kurtatron]

The engine is not new per-say. It was sitting in a warehouse for 20+ years. I have never had experience with engine replacement. I didn’t know that multiple drains might be required. I got loads of PP sitting around. Can I use that? Or should I really just go for Dino.

 

[SatinSilver]

I'd get a few jugs of Formula Shell at Home Depot for $13 each and run that for a few short intervals. Then run PP as mentioned.

 

[FermeLaPorte]

Long OCI's are for tuti-frutti men. Take care of the engine, don't let the oil get dirty.

 

[PimTac]

I suppose if I sat around for twenty years I would protest running myself.

Was there any pre-lubing prior to starting like a bit of oil into each cylinder? Run it for 10k and take another uoa to compare.

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted By: FermeLaPorte
Long OCI's are for tuti-frutti men. Take care of the engine, don't let the oil get dirty.


?? Guess you have a little more reading to do.

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: Kurtatron
The engine is not new per-say. It was sitting in a warehouse for 20+ years. I have never had experience with engine replacement. I didn’t know that multiple drains might be required. I got loads of PP sitting around. Can I use that? Or should I really just go for Dino.
syn is fine.

 

[John_Dude]

Originally Posted By: Kurtatron
The engine is not new per-say. It was sitting in a warehouse for 20+ years. I have never had experience with engine replacement. I didn’t know that multiple drains might be required. I got loads of PP sitting around. Can I use that? Or should I really just go for Dino.


Cheaper 'dino' oils have more group 2 base stocks, which absorb/suspend contaminates better than hydrocracked group 3+ or group 4 PAO.
I'd run some cheap API certified oil for the short intervals. Maybe supertech or havoline high mileage, the short intervals won't come close to using up the oil anyways. Save the synthetics for when the engine is done breaking in.

I believe the sort of contaminates that group 2's are good at absorbing are blowby gases and various hydrocarbons, such as varnish in an engine. Your new engine shouldn't have varnish, so I wonder if a group 2 will suspend iron better than grp 3/4...

Redline has a lot of PAO, which is the worst at cleaning.