Best additive in oil to clean sludge?

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Is it better to have higher Ca in oil to clean sludge? Or is it better to have higher ester in oil to clean sludge?
What oils have the highest amount of Ca? Mobil Turbo Diesel oil or Schaeffer, etc...???
What oils have the highest amount of ester? Redline or Maxima, etc...???

Thanks
 
If you don't want to open up the engine and manually clean it up I would do an engine flush. Pour it in, let it idle for 10-15 mins or whatever the directions state. Do not drive it while the flush is in the engine unless you want to buy a new engine. Let drain out and refill with a cheap conventional oil. Formula Shell at Home Depot for $13/jug is fine. Do about 3 short intervals of 500-1500 miles. Change pcv valve. From there keep using the FS, or PYB etc...
 
Meh....

At next OCI just "substitute" 1liter/quart with whatever ester based oil you can get online/locally....it could be "the cheapest motocycle oil" you can get....
 
Seafoam. 1 oz per quart of crankcase capacity in existing oil. Run it for 20 minutes.

Change oil and filter (go oversized if one will fit). Add full can of BG109 (EPR) to new conventional oil. Drive for ~100 miles. Change oil and filter again.

Keep doing the BG109 thing 100 miles before oil change at 3,000 mile intervals. It'll get clean in a while
smile.gif


Use biggest filter that will fit. You are going to put stuff in there ...
 
Marvel Mystery Oil is penetrating oil. You can add a quart or so, run it for a few days and then drop the oil. Have short Oil Change Intervals and every time add a quart or half-quart of Marvel Mystery Oil till you see some cleaning. SuperTech is the cheapest synthetic oil that you can use.

The other option is flushing the engine with engine flush. Just follow the instruction and then have short intervals with penetrating oil (Marvel Mystery)and a good branded synthetic.

See my signature for the oil I recommend.
 
I don't personally recommend engine flushes, you don't want something big to break loose and clog an oil passage, leading to a bigger problem later on. Any HDEO, conventional or synthetic at recommended intervals will do wonders. I'm especially a fan of the cleaning ability of Rotella T6 synthetic, it's also very cheap and easy to find anywhere yet a really stout brew. Better to clean it up over time than all at once is the way I see it!
 
What is the sludge doing? I'm wondering if it's best to leave sleeping dogs lie. Just change the oil often. Maybe frequent changes will slowly pull out stuff. I pulled the valvecover on my car a year ago, and then last month, and I *think* there was a bit less varnish. Think. Maybe. Perhaps...

I have no proof other than "it feels good" but I suspect that changing oil brands on every change might do something to loosen up sludge. Let the different additives and chemistry attack in their different ways. Probably a trivial effect but what the heck, chase the sales.

I forget if conventional is better at cleaning than synthetic. Something about being more polar.

But I'd think that once oil was getting changed often enough, that sludge and varnish would be arrested in its development?
 
A true solvent or a boutique oil that specifically references carbon removal like Valvoline Premium Blue Restore is the only thing that is really going to perform "cleaning". Several of the oil formulators here have reinforced that plain detergents do not actually "clean" so much other than maybe washing away some of the goop.

Kreen is probably one of the more highly regarded solvents on the board, Trav had a great 60+ page thread on it if you search. I used Kreen in my Odyssey and it took off a good bit but not all of the varnish under the valvecover. I'm sure a couple more rounds of it will get it looking as good as new, not that varnish alone really hurts anything.

MMO is tried and true but takes much longer, then you have Gumout AIO, Seafoam, and a couple others (Amsoil, Motor Mechanic, etc.)
 
You want a high Magnesium oil. Thats why many people recommend HDEO for clean ups as they usually have a good does of magnesium, however, many PCMO are now using magnesium due to SN+ and D1G2.
 
For immediate results Under the rocker cover, use a spoon or a fat drinking straw.

In this case, synthetic is best, since polythene is sufficiently flexible to conform to the surface.
 
substitute one quart of oil with a quart of diesel and run it for 20 minutes before a oil change. It always worked for me in a dirty engine.
 
I always wondered if you add diesel or kerosene in the crankcase, how would you dispose of that oil? Every time I drop off my used oil at Autozone, they ask me, if I have used any additive. So I even stopped adding Marvel Mystery oil (I noticed, it helped slightly.)

Now I have been using 2:1 Synthetic blend and synthetic oil and the car drives far better. Before next oil change, I plan to add Kano Labs' Kreen, idle for 20 min, drain and fill up with synthetic only.

I didn't want to open the crankcase cover to check for the sludge so I decided to go this way. Trav was esp. helpful on the thread I posted a while ago.
 
And yet the first response on here by CT8 asking how much sludge there is hasn't been addressed nor answered by the OP.

One wonders if there is even a problem to begin with as is the case with most of these types of questions.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Seafoam. 1 oz per quart of crankcase capacity in existing oil. Run it for 20 minutes.

Change oil and filter (go oversized if one will fit). Add full can of BG109 (EPR) to new conventional oil. Drive for ~100 miles. Change oil and filter again.

Keep doing the BG109 thing 100 miles before oil change at 3,000 mile intervals. It'll get clean in a while
smile.gif


Use biggest filter that will fit. You are going to put stuff in there ...
*You could also run the Seafoam for up to 300 miles no problem - then just run short 2K mile OCI's of PYB conventional for a few short intervals adding a quart of MMO to the crankcase . After that just run a SN+ synthetic of your choice .
 
The vehicle is the famous VW 1.8T. It has 150,000 miles. I received the vehicle with 147,000 miles. I have changed the oil every 1,000 miles with 4qts Total Quartz synthetic and 1qt of ester based oil. So far after 3,000 miles or 3 oil changes, I still haven't seen any change when looking into the valve cover through the oil cap hole. I don't want to take the valve cover off and clean it manually and also I don't want to take off the oil pan to clear the screen. I called VW to see if they still have the service where they pump in cleaner from BG that clears all the sludge. The VW dealership had no idea what I was talking about and they don't have any sort of service related to that. The VW dealership did have a crankcase cleaner like the OTC stuff. I didn't want to use that stuff because I know it will cause more harm than good.

I don't mind trying to use the Valvoline Premium Blue Restore if I new for sure that it does clean sludge effectively. Redline oil is about $15-17 a quart so a gallon of the Valvoline Premiume Blue Restore would be about the same cost as 4qts of redline oil.

Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: SubieRubyRoo
A true solvent or a boutique oil that specifically references carbon removal like Valvoline Premium Blue Restore is the only thing that is really going to perform "cleaning". Several of the oil formulators here have reinforced that plain detergents do not actually "clean" so much other than maybe washing away some of the goop.

Kreen is probably one of the more highly regarded solvents on the board, Trav had a great 60+ page thread on it if you search. I used Kreen in my Odyssey and it took off a good bit but not all of the varnish under the valvecover. I'm sure a couple more rounds of it will get it looking as good as new, not that varnish alone really hurts anything.

MMO is tried and true but takes much longer, then you have Gumout AIO, Seafoam, and a couple others (Amsoil, Motor Mechanic, etc.)


What he said! ^^^^Restore is available at your local Cummins dealer. Valv Restore is specifically made to clean engines. I called the local Cummins in Alb and they will sell it to you a gallon if you wish. That way you don't have to purchase six gallons at a time.

Good luck!


Respectfully,

Pajero!
 
Would anyone here know which oil has the highest ESTER content?
Redline, Maxima, or Top1 motor oil???

Thanks!!!
 
I had that engine for 200k miles. Even 5k mile oil change intervals with VW 502 and MB 229.5 oils was too long to prevent varnish, clogged PCV pipes, and partially clogged oil pickup screen. No oil I tried, including Red Line and Amsoil SAE 30 Heavy Duty Diesel Oil, cleaned it up. You should go straight to the strong solvents like Kreen or BG EPR, and use it with cheap 10W-40 oils with very short oil change intervals. Be careful, knowing you are risking clogging the oil pickup screen.
 
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