Brake Bleeder

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Any value to putting anti seize onto the threads? Or should they just be replaced every so often?

I have two that the rubber caps disintegrated, and I forgot about that--so they seem to be rusted shut now & won't flow. I noticed on a different car that the bleeders are getting harder to turn out (but still work). So I'm wondering if I should remove and "grease" appropriately, or just buy a few new ones and replace as necessary. [I presume that anti seize would be only on the threads and not the sealing surface.]
 
I just dealt with exactly this. I had never cracked the bleeders on my 2009 Suburban so I decided I should have a look at what's in there. Of course they were frozen solid. I heated the bleeder screws up with a torch, dabbed on some Mouse Milk while it was hot and hit em again with the heat after a few minutes. They came right out. I had new bleeders on standby. I coated the threads with Nev R Seize and back bled fresh fluid. I can't tell you how long they'll remain free because I only did this two weeks ago. Seemed like a good idea.
 
Anti Seize is fine on the threads, the bleeder is tapered on the bottom to seal in the hole in the caliper, just don't get any in this area.
 
Originally Posted By: Flyfisherbob
Why most new cars do not have rubber caps is beyond me.
Water goes in and rusts them in no time.


They don't? I thought they did.

My '99 though, when I went to run brake fluid through, the two up front fell apart. I guess age catches up to all. But I couldn't source new rubber caps at local parts places, and then forgot to order some. Oops. So, if I have to put in a parts order, I might as well stock up on pads&rotors, bleeders and bleeder caps.
 
Call me cheap, but can't a piece of hose, sealed from other side be used on the bleeder valve or anything similar?
 
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Call me cheap, but can't a piece of hose, sealed from other side be used on the bleeder valve or anything similar?


I don't see why not. Quick look shows $1.70/each. Haven't looked on ebay yet.
 
Anti-seize doesn't impress me. Not much grease for too much money and too little usage Chassis lube or good ol' Aviation Forma Gasket #2 depending on the application. Bleeders and all fittings on the Rat were removed and replaced along with all the lines and hoses. After that adventure, I gooped every threaded fitting with a thin layer of whatever was in the gun at the time. Yeah, yeah, grease attracts dirt. Great, that kinda gives the grease some stiffness. It clings but is easily removed.
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Heck, Ducked rubs aluminum foil on stuff
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Think I lost a couple of the caps. Havn't tried to source replacements, which is likely to be a huge and futile PITA here.

IIRC I rubbed them with sunflower oil and aluminium then wrapped them in a couple of layers of thin aluminium chocolate wrapping. I thought of using the caps off the tiny toothpaste tubes you get in hotels, but I can't now remember if I did.

The plug in the bottom of a "classic" BIC ballpoint pen tube might also be a possibility, or maqybe a wee square of insulating tape pinched on. Or a bit of bleed tubing plugged with RTV, chopstick section, little rolled ball of foil, etc.

Re antisieze on the threads, you can't get antiseize here, but I'm not entirely comfortable with oil-based stuff that close to the brake internals anyway, though I guess it should be OK with a bit of care.

I use a wrap of PTFE thread tape. In the past I've also applied earwax.
 
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
Think I lost a couple of the caps. Havn't tried to source replacements, which is likely to be a huge and futile PITA here.

IIRC I rubbed them with sunflower oil and aluminium then wrapped them in a couple of layers of thin aluminium chocolate wrapping. I thought of using the caps off the tiny toothpaste tubes you get in hotels, but I can't now remember if I did.

The plug in the bottom of a "classic" BIC ballpoint pen tube might also be a possibility, or maqybe a wee square of insulating tape pinched on. Or a bit of bleed tubing plugged with RTV, chopstick section, little rolled ball of foil, etc.

Re antisieze on the threads, you can't get antiseize here, but I'm not entirely comfortable with oil-based stuff that close to the brake internals anyway, though I guess it should be OK with a bit of care.

I use a wrap of PTFE thread tape. In the past I've also applied earwax.


Sometimes I chuckle at what you're willing to do. I get the picture in my head of someone pinching every penny so that in retirement they can live like the rich and famous--because they're sitting on some gold mine.
 
I vote no just because I wouldn't want that stuff getting in my brake fluid.

With quality zinc coated bleeders, you shouldn't need anti seize.

*How does a cap prevent the threads from rusting? Some aren't even a tight fit so one could argue they keep junk and moisture in...
 
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Originally Posted By: Flyfisherbob
Why most new cars do not have rubber caps is beyond me.
Water goes in and rusts them in no time.
The threads rust. the caps don't help that.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I vote no just because I wouldn't want that stuff getting in my brake fluid.

With quality zinc coated bleeders, you shouldn't need anti seize.

*How does a cap prevent the threads from rusting? Some aren't even a tight fit so one could argue they keep junk and moisture in...


True, but at least on my discs the bleeders sit up. I think water can pool in there and do its thing quickly. I mean, when I did the fluid a year ago fluid came out--the caps fell apart, so they were left uncovered. One year later and nothing comes out. So they went downhill real fast.

So you're in the camp of just replace, no anti seize. I think all my vehicles use the same size, so I wonder if I could buy a ten pack or something.
 
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