Contemplating what to try next

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After always using Castrol GTX 20w50 for the first couple of oil changes in my old BMW I’ve ventured into using HDEO because of high zinc/phos content and cheap price after learning these old straight 6s like a healthy dose. I’ve used M1 15w50, Delo cj4 15w40, frankenbrew, and current fill is Valvoline VR1 20w50 with MOS2 going for 5k OCI with good results so far.

Bearing in mind the formulations are ever changing, it’s become hard to find alternatives that I feel comfortable using since I daily the car and drive pretty aggressively depending on how late I am and LOTS of short tripping (1 mile or less) to school and back to my apartment. Also do 270+ mile trips to New Orleans and back to Lafayette often to see the fam and girlfriend, which is the bulk of my OCIs.

I’ve been on the Valvoline bandwagon lately and I’m thinking of using Maxlife 20w50 if I can get my hands on it locally, but I’m leary of new SN plus rated oils due to super low zinc/phos content related to LSPI which I don’t care about because I don’t know if that is an issue with old bmw straight 6s. I’m wondering if I should really be worried about all this unless I’m participating in an auto X event where a performance oil would be ideal. I can get Chevron Supreme 20w50 at cost from for like $3.30ea and M1 15w50 for $5.99. I typically run 3k oci’s out of principle since it’s an old engine and I’m trying to clean it up (it’s working so far) but I would definitely go 5k in M1 barring I have some issue of overheating, then I would change early.
 
I don't think a BMW of this vintage needs the zinc, but being an HDEO fan myself I understand the infatuation.

VR1 (aside from extended use possibly killing your catalytic converter(s)), Maxlife, and Valvoline white bottle would be the easiest for me to find locally. There's also Castrol 20w50 and 5w50. You may also consider the wide range of xxw40 A3/ B4's and HDEO's.

I would just run conventional since you're doing 3k OCI's or try to find name brand synthetics in an oil change deal.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
GTX or PYB 20W50. Cheap by the 5 quart jug at Walmart.


I haven’t seen PYB 20w50 in a Walmart around here in over a year. GTX/Supertech are my only options. Everything else is 10w40. I saw the PYB in O’Reillys today, but they wanted like $7+ A quart, forget that.
 
15W-40 ought to be fine and it's everywhere. Any of the HDEO sections will have plenty. Unless that engine is worn out, you do not need 50 grade at op temp ...
 
Originally Posted By: Samrsnow
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
GTX or PYB 20W50. Cheap by the 5 quart jug at Walmart.


I haven’t seen PYB 20w50 in a Walmart around here in over a year. GTX/Supertech are my only options. Everything else is 10w40. I saw the PYB in O’Reillys today, but they wanted like $7+ A quart, forget that.


You'd have to buy it "site to store". Free shipping if sent to your nearest store.

Pennzoil 20W-50 Conventional Motor Oil, 5 qt
Average rating:5out of5stars, based on5reviews5 reviews
PennzoilWalmart # 557344447
$18.49$0.12 / fl oz
Free 2-day shipping on orders over $35
Arrives by Mon, Jun 18Options
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
15W-40 ought to be fine and it's everywhere. Any of the HDEO sections will have plenty. Unless that engine is worn out, you do not need 50 grade at op temp ...


In the Louisiana summer, no. The 80s bmw engines all require thick oil to operate correctly. I have run HDEO during the winter months and it works great for cold starts. There is some truth to the search for high zinc oils. From my understanding the valvetrain is pretty high pressure. But I’m assuming I shouldn’t have to worry too much since modern AW additives make up for less Z/P, right?
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
The new CK-4 version of Shell Rotella 15W40 still has 1250 ppm zinc.
Here is a VOA.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4693958/


Wow this just affirms that it doesn’t matter if they don’t have an SN rating. I’d use that in my car for sure. Only HDEO I probably won’t run is Delo CK4/SN, it’s add-pack is a shell of its former self.

I did snag a gallon of CJ4 T4 from Homedepot recently for winter. Gonna have to get two more quarts of something else to fill the sump completely.
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
My M30 liked M1 15W-50, M1 0W-40, and all manner of HDEOs. Always had decent oil pressure and never noticed a difference.


Did you notice more valvetrain clatter with the 0w40 during hot restarts? That was a very noticeable problem I had last time I ran the M1 15w50. I’ve always wanted to try 0w40 but it’s never cold enough in LA to justify using it.
 
Originally Posted By: Samrsnow
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
15W-40 ought to be fine and it's everywhere. Any of the HDEO sections will have plenty. Unless that engine is worn out, you do not need 50 grade at op temp ...


In the Louisiana summer, no. The 80s bmw engines all require thick oil to operate correctly. I have run HDEO during the winter months and it works great for cold starts. There is some truth to the search for high zinc oils. From my understanding the valvetrain is pretty high pressure. But I’m assuming I shouldn’t have to worry too much since modern AW additives make up for less Z/P, right?


I had a 1987 325e with an odd-ball inline six Eco engine (light pressure piston rings and some other stuff I don't remember). BMW was very specific that I run a high HTHS oil. Something like a minimum of HTHS 4.2, 10w, 15w or 20w-40. My Son told me to use Rotella 15w-40 but I didn't believe in using a diesel oil in a gas engine. So I used Mobil1 5w-40 (barely met the HTHS). Car ran great and super gas mileage!
 
Originally Posted By: ka9mnx
Originally Posted By: Samrsnow
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
15W-40 ought to be fine and it's everywhere. Any of the HDEO sections will have plenty. Unless that engine is worn out, you do not need 50 grade at op temp ...


In the Louisiana summer, no. The 80s bmw engines all require thick oil to operate correctly. I have run HDEO during the winter months and it works great for cold starts. There is some truth to the search for high zinc oils. From my understanding the valvetrain is pretty high pressure. But I’m assuming I shouldn’t have to worry too much since modern AW additives make up for less Z/P, right?


I had a 1987 325e with an odd-ball inline six Eco engine (light pressure piston rings and some other stuff I don't remember). BMW was very specific that I run a high HTHS oil. Something like a minimum of HTHS 4.2, 10w, 15w or 20w-40. My Son told me to use Rotella 15w-40 but I didn't believe in using a diesel oil in a gas engine. So I used Mobil1 5w-40 (barely met the HTHS). Car ran great and super gas mileage!


Ah yes, the super ETA m20 powered cars are great. I had a 1988 528e with the 2.7L and it got really good mileage, always ran regular GTX 20w50 and an OCOD haha.
 
Originally Posted By: Samrsnow
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
My M30 liked M1 15W-50, M1 0W-40, and all manner of HDEOs. Always had decent oil pressure and never noticed a difference.

Did you notice more valvetrain clatter with the 0w40 during hot restarts? That was a very noticeable problem I had last time I ran the M1 15w50. I’ve always wanted to try 0w40 but it’s never cold enough in LA to justify using it.

Nothing outside the usual. An M30 with properly adjusted valves isn't exactly quiet.
 
Originally Posted By: Samrsnow
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
My M30 liked M1 15W-50, M1 0W-40, and all manner of HDEOs. Always had decent oil pressure and never noticed a difference.


Did you notice more valvetrain clatter with the 0w40 during hot restarts? That was a very noticeable problem I had last time I ran the M1 15w50. I’ve always wanted to try 0w40 but it’s never cold enough in LA to justify using it.


Originally Posted By: Samrsnow
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
My M30 liked M1 15W-50, M1 0W-40, and all manner of HDEOs. Always had decent oil pressure and never noticed a difference.


Did you notice more valvetrain clatter with the 0w40 during hot restarts? That was a very noticeable problem I had last time I ran the M1 15w50. I’ve always wanted to try 0w40 but it’s never cold enough in LA to justify using it.


With a few exceptions, a 0w40 is an A3/B4. Very good stuff with a higher HTHS. Same with 5w40's marketed as Euro oils. The 0w/ 5w is nothing to worry about.
 
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