How would you make this MB "shop made tool"?

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JHZR2

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I'm not all that creative when it comes to fabricating things. MB now offers the w123 FSM free on their website; so here are some screen shots.

1.5mm is 16ga roughly. I don't quite get how to make this have an F shape. Any recommendations? Otherwise I can just cut 16ga spacers to use.





Thanks!
 
The important part if the "C" that is the top of the F.

This is the spacer for correct set-up, so I'd just concentrate on that shape/dimension.

Then make a handle (or not) from there.
 
Its an easy tool to fab, if I was seeing better I would make one for you. Start with a sheet metal "C" and add handle as Shannow suggested.
Alternatively find a sheet metal shop, print the picture with the dimensions and let them make you one, it wont cost much at all. Don't have a machine shop do it, they will make a high quality piece than is required at a much higher cost.
 
Originally Posted By: VeryNoisyPoet
Looks like the short part of the F is welded in place.


The image is so [censored] small it's hard to read but it does look like weld fillets are shown. As an alternative, and it will depend on the bend radius, one could possibly bend that 'piece' in the part.
 
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I would start with a 16G bicycle spoke, bend it to shape, and weld a handle onto it.
 
Get some 16ga sheet metal cut to dimension, add an elongated hole and bend, mig tack weld the piece under it on (or have someone do it). Honestly its a 20 min easy fab, give it a go, nothing to loose but a small piece of sheet metal.
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
What's the MB part number and how much do they want for it anyway?


The FSM specifically calls it a "shop made tool". Therefore there is no part number.
 
Have you tried getting a copy of the WIS? They're about $10 for the knock off DVD on eBay. I'm wondering if they ever updated it so that it has a part number.
 
I can't be more clear. This was intended for shops to produce themselves.
 


OK, you have to cut a flat bar as shown bent it around a 10mm bar, then weld the "F" arm on it.

It's pretty clear how it's assembled.
 
So, if I have zero skill and no equipment to weld, how can I best make this? Pop rivits and epoxy?

I'm thinking to make the "c" that is the main section of use via one bend. Then pop rivit/epoxy the handle on. Potentially doubly over the 16ga for the handle to meet the 3mm design.

Would this be feasible?

Thanks!!
 
Is this 240D specific? I don't remember it on the 5 cylinder W123s. For a 1-time use, can't you just take two ~3 mm pieces (like a washer) and slip them in place while you set the stop?
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
So, if I have zero skill and no equipment to weld, how can I best make this? Pop rivits and epoxy?

I'm thinking to make the "c" that is the main section of use via one bend. Then pop rivit/epoxy the handle on. Potentially doubly over the 16ga for the handle to meet the 3mm design.

Would this be feasible?

Thanks!!

Like I said before the C is the most important bit.

And if you make it on it's own you can adjust the "gap and file the depth as you need, rather than rely on welding.

Then affix the handle (if you need it)...could be soldered, brazed, plug welded, flat rivetted, not sure about whether you've got room for pop rivetts.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
So, if I have zero skill and no equipment to weld, how can I best make this? Pop rivits and epoxy?

I'm thinking to make the "c" that is the main section of use via one bend. Then pop rivit/epoxy the handle on. Potentially doubly over the 16ga for the handle to meet the 3mm design.

Would this be feasible?

Thanks!!

Like I said before the C is the most important bit.

And if you make it on it's own you can adjust the "gap and file the depth as you need, rather than rely on welding.

Then affix the handle (if you need it)...could be soldered, brazed, plug welded, flat rivetted, not sure about whether you've got room for pop rivetts.


Agreed. But I don't have any of those tools/techniques available, except maybe electronics and plumbing solder.

Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
Is this 240D specific? I don't remember it on the 5 cylinder W123s. For a 1-time use, can't you just take two ~3 mm pieces (like a washer) and slip them in place while you set the stop?


Generally only 4 cyl and MT/non turbo 617 engines got the T-mount. Washers or cutting 16ga steel as a spacer (making the C like Shannon said) is key.

Not clear how much it really even matters. But I like to do a job right if I can, and this one is on no real schedule...
 
Looks like getting the hole in the right spot is important. Is that 22mm x 11mm for the hole? I can't really tell how for inset the hole is from the end of the tool before you bend it.

If thats 3mm thickness for the stock then its around 11ga or a hair under 1/8 inch.
 
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To make the C all you need is a bench vice, shears (or cold chisel, or angle grinder), a couple of files (one rat-tail) and a 10mm drill bit and a hammer.

For the handle, been thinking a bit more, could make a handle with a couple of tabs like a double cross bar telegraph pole, and bend the tabs over the "C" to hold it.

Might find that you don' need the handle at all.
 
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