Rust Converter

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CCI

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Anyone have any good or bad experience withthe products that are designed to be applied to rusted metal to stop the progress of the corrosion?
 
Anyone have any good or bad experience with the products that are designed to be applied to rusted metal to stop the progress of the corrosion?

This is for a motorcycle that was left sitting outside too long.
 
POR15! Then top coat it with another rust paint as POR15 is UV sensitive.

I’ve had great luck with this on the undercarriage of my truck.
 
Sorta, I was fixing a flat on my oldest 2 wheel cart. The rim was getting very rusty, I had an old spray can of Rustoleum Rust Reformer. It had lost its fizz. Can was maybe 20 yrs old. I poured it out of a hole and painted the rim inside What spilled on the outside looks good. If I could score some on sale, I would paint both wheels.
 
Yeah: Ospho

I live in Canada, I have figured out how to destroy rust (without immersion):

1. Sandblast to get the scale off.
2. Acid to remove the rust from inside the pits + etch so that paint will stick.
 
each post has a different recommendation.. Ok, I'll throw mine in. Eastwood's rust encapsulator. I've used that and it's not bad, their converter gets mixed reviews. I has stopped the rust I have on my project Civic car.

eastwood.com look for rust encapsulator. I had tried SEM products version of this type of thing and it needed precise temp/humidity to work. Sure the only time we get that humid and hot is august! So I went with eastwood and it worked no matter what humidity level, but above I think 55 or 60degrees ambient temps.
 
Originally Posted By: Gixxer46
POR15! Then top coat it with another rust paint as POR15 is UV sensitive.

I’ve had great luck with this on the undercarriage of my truck.


Doesn't the POR15 use a chemical process to change the rust to some sort of polymer? I recall using this or something similar years ago, turned the rust black and stopped it...
 
Originally Posted By: JLTD
Originally Posted By: Gixxer46
POR15! Then top coat it with another rust paint as POR15 is UV sensitive.

I’ve had great luck with this on the undercarriage of my truck.


Doesn't the POR15 use a chemical process to change the rust to some sort of polymer? I recall using this or something similar years ago, turned the rust black and stopped it...


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid#Rust_removal
 
I have used literally dozens of them over the years and they all have one thing in common, they all suck Por 15 included.
Needle scaler or stiff wire wheel/brush and wet the part with $1 a gallon 5% vinegar. Wrap the part (if possible) with old newspaper and wire wrap it to hold it in place and soak it down with the vinegar.

Let it sit a few hours and remove, wire brush or scrub pad it down with water and baking soda, fresh water rinse and dry.
paint with self etching primer, the spray can works fine. Topcoat and rust proof.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I have used literally dozens of them over the years and they all have one thing in common, they all suck Por 15 included.
Needle scaler or stiff wire wheel/brush and wet the part with $1 a gallon 5% vinegar. Wrap the part (if possible) with old newspaper and wire wrap it to hold it in place and soak it down with the vinegar.

Let it sit a few hours and remove, wire brush or scrub pad it down with water and baking soda, fresh water rinse and dry.
paint with self etching primer, the spray can works fine. Topcoat and rust proof.



Hmm, glad you posted this! Was planning on doing some rust remediation on the truck when I have the bed off for fuel pump replacement. What kind of topcoat or rust proofing would you go with? I was going to wire wheel with my grinder everything and do something like POR15. But maybe not now.
 
You need a thick layer of newspaper to hold a good bit of the vinegar so it doesn't dry out too fast, wrap it good and give it a good soaking after you wire wheel it.
You must neutralize the acid with baking soda and water with a fresh water rinse once its reasonably clean then dry it.

Prime with self etching primer, rattle cans work okay but I like a 2 part epoxy with a spray gun if possible.
Once is clean, dry and primed use chip guard on it. NAPA has good stuff in rattle cans cheap enough, the part # for black is MS 4004. If its clean and dry and primed this stuff will hang in there forever, it is hard to remove and really resist rocks and stone damage.

Coat it well with a couple of coats and let it dry. Once its dry cover that with 3M 03584 rubberized undercoating, let it dry well overnight before reassembly. It wont rust even in the salt belt, care of application is everything.
 
For fixing rust on my Jeep, first I cut out most I could once you have through rust it needs to be cut. For surface rust/pitting I wire wheeled and flapper wheeled where I could and used Rustoleum Rust Dissolver Spray/Gel which is Phosphoric Acid. Let that sit and use a brass brush to scrub it in. Then I used a wet towel to get the product off then used rustoleum roll on paint, Rusty Metal Primer + Paint. The Paint is very durable and cheap.

Before and After
https://imgur.com/a/QRj1Ykg
 
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Loctite Extend is supposed to be a converter and paint. Its pretty good. Others use something like naval jelly to convert, then use POR-15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator as a covering to block any oxygen from getting to the surface. You cannot sand POR-15 or Eastwood Rust Encapsulator but can paint over them. If you can dip the item then there are other products.

Sand or sandblast and paint with self etching primer is another method.
 
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