09 Honda end link saga

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Sooooo...I took a shot at replacing the front sway bar end links and hilarity ensued.

Lower bolt would not spin even with an airgun, so I tried to cut it off. Cut on both sides of the sway bar, and the stud still wouldn't come loose. I tried every tool I own and butchered the [censored] out of it.

So it's off to the shop...I think the hole will have to be rebored. What a mess.
 
I recently replaced the end links on my sister's 2003 Acura TL. What a nightmare. The bolts were very rusted, so much that the allen head on one side just looked like a round hole. Vice grips, heat, and Kroil was the only way it came off. This car was from Florida and has only been here for two winters.
 
Originally Posted By: Chester11
Sooooo...I took a shot at replacing the front sway bar end links and hilarity ensued.

Lower bolt would not spin even with an airgun, so I tried to cut it off. Cut on both sides of the sway bar, and the stud still wouldn't come loose. I tried every tool I own and butchered the [censored] out of it.

So it's off to the shop...I think the hole will have to be rebored. What a mess.


Oil and heat can go a a long way, even in corrosion free PA.
 
Originally Posted By: maxdustington
Oil and heat can go a a long way, even in corrosion free PA.


lol.gif


I beg to differ on that big time!

PennDot loves their salt and here in the mountains the liquid stuff is common. The Camry doesn't go very far and it has several spots of corrosion on the suspension.
 
I read that as a joke. Everyone whose been to the state knows PennDOT uses salt like it's going out of style. They're deathly afraid that if they don't go through a year's supply by the middle of December their budget won't increase as much as they want it to the following year.
 
Originally Posted By: 853okg
I read that as a joke. Everyone whose been to the state knows PennDOT uses salt like it's going out of style. They're deathly afraid that if they don't go through a year's supply by the middle of December their budget won't increase as much as they want it to the following year.


I wanted to make it rhyme!

My dad bought a 1998 Silverado from PA in 2005 or so, it had like 250k miles on it. The underside of the bed was completely rust free, it blew me away. One year sitting in the yard it looked just like every other truck in Ontario. It had never been oil sprayed and was pretty much rust free, then it came to Ontario.

It is not just the salt, things rust quickly when you leave them outside here. I think it is the moisture in the air, especially during the summer months. I live in Toronto, pretty close to the lake, that must have something to do with it.

I am over 10 years out of date, and it could have been from the southernmost tip of PA. However, I do live in Canada and have formed a special bond with rusty vehicles.
 
thanks - didn't know this was even a thing. I should have asked before starting up the job.

surprisingly the bolts were not that visibly rusted and the top one came off pretty easily. I had trouble getting a socket on the bottom one, and figured cutting it would be easier. I'm kicking myself for not buying an impact swivel and just giving it the beans. (all my impacts are deep sockets, and was afraid of breaking my regular socket and swivel). I had to cut the top also, only because the stud was corroded and the bolt would not come off. Cutting the stud was easy with a sawzall, the nut, not so much. I did manage to take a couple chunks out of the frame, which should give the guys at the shop a laugh.

part of the problem is that the bottom is attached to the sway bar which once unhooked moves all over and striking force is dampened. my theory anyway - which I realized after I cutoff the top - dummy.

days later, and I'm still [censored].

here is the kicker - the shop I'm taking it to won't use customer provided parts. I somewhat understand, but I bought honda OE parts (in the bag), not some knockoff garbage. I fully expect a delay while they order low quality [censored], and I have to sell mine on ebay at a loss. or worse yet - they want to replace the entire sway bar and won't retap it. of course I'm also going out of town, and need a rental vehicle.

this is the case study in a hosed up DIY job - "it's 4 bolts, how hard can it be." ugh. I should take pictures of this s-show but the lens would be covered in tears. I broke it - I bought it (again?)
 
I have done all four corners of my 2000 Accord and it never get any easier. I have tried open sockets to pair with hex keys but it still doesn't how the ball joint tight enough. And it's recessed into the lower arm so there's limited space for vice grips. Every time was a struggle.
 
Originally Posted By: Chester11
here is the kicker - the shop I'm taking it to won't use customer provided parts. I somewhat understand, but I bought honda OE parts (in the bag), not some knockoff garbage. I fully expect a delay while they order low quality [censored], and I have to sell mine on ebay at a loss. or worse yet - they want to replace the entire sway bar and won't retap it.


When you get the car back, take off the new parts the shop installed and install your parts. They won't be all rusted and they'll be easy to remove this time.
 
thanks Trav - definitely picking up the ball swivels. for some reason the universal swivels just seemed easy to break so I stayed away (and I did already send one flying). just getting into the impact tool game, but am not fully stocked yet.

anyone looking for an air impact - this one is good for the price - used it so far on wheels, brakes and rusty stuff. I'm sure it would have saved me if I had the right fittings.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-ultra-compact-xtreme-torque-stubby-air-impact-wrench-63534.html
 
From everything I read and videos about it that's a good little gun and no doubt would have taken those nuts right off. Between the mini gun and small cordless its less often that I have to break out a bigger air gun. I love the powerful sub 5lb tools.
 
Originally Posted By: exranger06
Originally Posted By: Chester11
here is the kicker - the shop I'm taking it to won't use customer provided parts. I somewhat understand, but I bought honda OE parts (in the bag), not some knockoff garbage. I fully expect a delay while they order low quality [censored], and I have to sell mine on ebay at a loss. or worse yet - they want to replace the entire sway bar and won't retap it.


When you get the car back, take off the new parts the shop installed and install your parts. They won't be all rusted and they'll be easy to remove this time.


Hmm... Zip out the bolts, slap on some anti-sieze, and run until the parts wear out--and then put on the new in bag Honda parts?
 
I would have just found another shop that would install the OE new parts I had. Depending on what they install I may just toss em in the trash the same day and put the OE that I had in and look at the loss of the cheap parts as a lesson leaned but that's me.
Yes, your idea would work fine.
 
I'm no professional mechanic but if they refuse to install OEM parts still in their packaging I would not patronize them. I would accept not warrantying it as that's how it goes if you bring your own parts from what I understand.
 
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